Almost 100,000 miles on my 07 4wd, 5cyl. The other day the sound would not come on but it dispalyed like it was working, station number, time etc. Next day it was working fine and today not working again, what's up? Any you guys had that happen or know what is wrong?
Radio, display works but no sound
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Stock radio, I don't think it's a loose connection, doesn't feel like that, no static, just one day it works and next it doesn't, just started a few days a go. Dash has never been apart either.Stock or aftermarket radio? Just curious. Loose connection on the back of the radio? Seems like a brisk slap to the dash should fix it, right.
I will try that next time. This is 5:30 am as I write but yesterday the radio was working fine.This is only a guess but I think the radio itself may be the problem . I would remove the on/off volume knob an spray a bit of electrical contact cleaner in there . It's a long shot at best but won't cost you any bucks .
Yes the chimes work regardless if the sound on radio does or not
I wrote earlier that the chimes did work but I just checked it out and they do NOT work when the radio is acting up as it is right now. And I took the button off which only exposed the shaft and sprayed electronic cleaner down the shaft while pushing in and out and no success.
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I would expect that the chimes you go dead to, as they use the driver door speaker and I assume that runs through the radio unit. Take it out, clean it up, and try it again. If no dice, its likely something internal to the head unit and will need a new one. Can get used units on ebay or junk yard. Or go aftermarket. Most anything will need to be programmed to keep the silly security light happy. My knowledge on it is now exhausted. Th smarter folks will have to step in on how to get aftermarket radios working.
Can you determine any temperature correlation? Do it work when cold, or warm? Or works for 10 minutes then quits?
Th smarter folks will have to step in on how to get aftermarket radios working.Can you determine any temperature correlation? Do it work when cold, or warm? Or works for 10 minutes then quits?
Ok here is the latest. I looked at a site and the guy suggested checking the fuses with a test light on both sides of the fuse, if one side doesn't light maybe it comes on infrequently. So I have the key turned on and the door open, no chime and no radio sound and I start checking fuses but the test light isn't coming on, turned out the bulb was burned out. I had only touche two or three and the door chime came on and the radio worked. The fuses I had touched were for parking lights and door locks. I don't have auto matic door locks so maybe it was used for the chimes. OR it was just a coincidence that it came on. I bought a new test light and an assortment of fuses and checked the fuses again and they all light both sides and the radio still works. I pulled out the three and sprayed with electronic cleaner. I will update if there is a change.I would expect that the chimes you go dead to, as they use the driver door speaker and I assume that runs through the radio unit. Take it out, clean it up, and try it again. If no dice, its likely something internal to the head unit and will need a new one. Can get used units on ebay or junk yard. Or go aftermarket. Most anything will need to be programmed to keep the silly security light happy. My knowledge on it is now exhausted.
Can you determine any temperature correlation? Do it work when cold, or warm? Or works for 10 minutes then quits?
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Three reason im not thinking it's a fuse is that your clock and display worked, even when the sound doesn't. Could there be 2 circuits going into the radio. Maybe.
Next time it fails, get in and wiggle fuses. If that makes it come to life then we can attack it.
Next time it fails, get in and wiggle fuses. If that makes it come to life then we can attack it.
I'm thinking the same thing but hoping for the best but I'll let you know if it stops working again
The latest is that the fuse thing was not it, still having the problem. Works fine then next day not, then might start it up same day and it works fine. Nobody can give a deffinate answer even went to a real good highly reccomended car stereo place and same thing, "well i could do this or that and it might not be the problem". Geezus
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Sounds more and more like its local to the head unit, I am thinking. Electronics are frustrating.
Phase 1. Take it out and clean up the terminals on the plug. Spray the dust and dirt off the guts with electronic duster spray. Put it back together and see. Low risk, but also a chance at redemption for the radio.
Phase 2. When it fails, leave the truck running and pull the radio fuse. Then put it back in. Does a hard power cycle change the behavior? You have already determined that turning it off/on at the power button will not do it.
If the fuse reset works, then you can rig up a toggle or push button to cut power to the radio momentarily. A bit janky for sure. But low cost. Not sure how the BCM will react to that nonsense.
Phase 3 is a new head unit at your preferred audio shop. That will fix it, assuming we are correct that the problem is in the head and now a downstream connector.
*Get a nice BT speaker and put it in the cup holder.
This old thread with a similar problem may help though. A speaker was grounding out on the door panel. You have not messed with the radio or speakers before, but worth ruling out.
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Phase 1. Take it out and clean up the terminals on the plug. Spray the dust and dirt off the guts with electronic duster spray. Put it back together and see. Low risk, but also a chance at redemption for the radio.
Phase 2. When it fails, leave the truck running and pull the radio fuse. Then put it back in. Does a hard power cycle change the behavior? You have already determined that turning it off/on at the power button will not do it.
If the fuse reset works, then you can rig up a toggle or push button to cut power to the radio momentarily. A bit janky for sure. But low cost. Not sure how the BCM will react to that nonsense.
Phase 3 is a new head unit at your preferred audio shop. That will fix it, assuming we are correct that the problem is in the head and now a downstream connector.
*Get a nice BT speaker and put it in the cup holder.
This old thread with a similar problem may help though. A speaker was grounding out on the door panel. You have not messed with the radio or speakers before, but worth ruling out.
Unknown Radio Gremlin
Just bought a brand new Pioneer 200BT Touchscreen radio last week, installed it in a little over an hour. To give you a little insight on the install and myself, I am an electronics engineer, so of course, I soldered every connection and used heat shrink. I've installed many radios in my truck...
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I'm not familiar with radio lingo, I suppose by "head unit" you are talking about the radio, right? Can't find a video for our Colorado to take radio out but a full size Chev, does the panel surround just snap off? I have read that BCM can cause issues, could it be the Body Control Module and if so how is that checked? Thanks for the help Dragon by the way. I love this truck but issues like this are frustrating. I had a talk with the local Car Radio guy and he pretty much said what you did but I forgot to ask some of the questions I'm asking you. He said he would check into it and call me if he finds good information. He did say that he has had a lot of newer Toyota pickups in with radio problems but never a Colorado. By the way I had another post about TPM's here, finally just bought off Rock Auto and had the tire store install and relearn, all for a great price.Sounds more and more like its local to the head unit, I am thinking. Electronics are frustrating.
Phase 1. Take it out and clean up the terminals on the plug. Spray the dust and dirt off the guts with electronic duster spray. Put it back together and see. Low risk, but also a chance at redemption for the radio.
Phase 2. When it fails, leave the truck running and pull the radio fuse. Then put it back in. Does a hard power cycle change the behavior? You have already determined that turning it off/on at the power button will not do it.
If the fuse reset works, then you can rig up a toggle or push button to cut power to the radio momentarily. A bit janky for sure. But low cost. Not sure how the BCM will react to that nonsense.
Phase 3 is a new head unit at your preferred audio shop. That will fix it, assuming we are correct that the problem is in the head and now a downstream connector.
*Get a nice BT speaker and put it in the cup holder.
This old thread with a similar problem may help though. A speaker was grounding out on the door panel. You have not messed with the radio or speakers before, but worth ruling out.
Unknown Radio Gremlin
Just bought a brand new Pioneer 200BT Touchscreen radio last week, installed it in a little over an hour. To give you a little insight on the install and myself, I am an electronics engineer, so of course, I soldered every connection and used heat shrink. I've installed many radios in my truck...
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436 Posts
oh man, electrical issues are the worst. So hard to nail down.
To get to the radio, you have to take the surround bezel. It has 6 clips that hold it in place. Start at the bottom and work up the sides. I know there are YouTube vids on that. Next step is to disconnect the plugs for the 4wd and emergency flashers. Get those undone and the bezel will be free to set aside. Then I think there are 4 screws holding the radio in. Undo those and the radio head unit will pull straight out.
I saw that you got your TPMS fixed up. Good deal, no more silly message or yellow light.
I dont think its the BCM, because you only have the 1 symptom of no sound. Bad BCMs cause all sorts of mischief. But impossible to say, you know.
Either the speaker signal is not getting out of the head unit, or the electrons are getting lost on their way to the speaker because they found an easier path. Electrons only behave if you give them very precise instructions and no options to deviate for the intended destination. Toddlers, basically.
To get to the radio, you have to take the surround bezel. It has 6 clips that hold it in place. Start at the bottom and work up the sides. I know there are YouTube vids on that. Next step is to disconnect the plugs for the 4wd and emergency flashers. Get those undone and the bezel will be free to set aside. Then I think there are 4 screws holding the radio in. Undo those and the radio head unit will pull straight out.
I saw that you got your TPMS fixed up. Good deal, no more silly message or yellow light.
I dont think its the BCM, because you only have the 1 symptom of no sound. Bad BCMs cause all sorts of mischief. But impossible to say, you know.
Either the speaker signal is not getting out of the head unit, or the electrons are getting lost on their way to the speaker because they found an easier path. Electrons only behave if you give them very precise instructions and no options to deviate for the intended destination. Toddlers, basically.
Been on my motorcycle, just got back read your post and went out to check radio. As soon as I turn the key and hear the ding ding ding, I know the radio will work. I rode by the Chevy dealer and asked one of the techs and he said basically the same thing, most likely the radio, he said the BCM would cause a lot of bizzarre stuff like the radio searching for stations. The thing that keeps me from doing anything like pulling it out is like it just did, it worked. So if I do pull it out would it cause any problems by driving it without all those connectors plugged in? I'd like to pull it and have the guy check it out of the truck.
Pulling the radio fuse and reinserting had no effect
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OK, so no go on the hard reset of the radio.
That other thread got me thinking. When you get a fail, see if tapping on the speakers in the doors has an effect. Or opening and closing the doors. What you would be looking for is a intermittent ground fault in one of the speaker wires.. According to that other fellow, when one speaker grounded out, all of them shut off. Long shot, but its another free test. We are running short on good ideas, time to try some bad ones.
That other thread got me thinking. When you get a fail, see if tapping on the speakers in the doors has an effect. Or opening and closing the doors. What you would be looking for is a intermittent ground fault in one of the speaker wires.. According to that other fellow, when one speaker grounded out, all of them shut off. Long shot, but its another free test. We are running short on good ideas, time to try some bad ones.
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You may be on to something. I remember lots of odd electrical issues resulted from a broken wire in the door wire boots. It was mostly reported by the guys with the extended cab trucks.
Broken wires, speaker question
Hello everyone, Not too long ago I posted about periodically having issues with the windows and locks acting up when it's cold out and someone mentioned that there might be a broken/corroded/shorted out wire in the door hinge. Well I never looked into it as I didn't want to do it in the cold...
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