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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2006 Chevy Colorado, 2wd, 105k miles, crew cab, stock

So I had a brake job done where several things went south. The rotors and pads had to be done. I have been reading a lot trying to figure things out and have found a few things but now after 3 alignments and $600 in work, I am turning to y’all for assistance.

First, noted that ABS would randomly kick on. After a lot of reading here and on c-fans, I have figured out that it is the passenger side sensor that is the issue. It finally happened one time when going slow and braking so I just let go of the wheel and pulled to the left. Plan to try to tap the ring of the sensor back on. Any suggestions on how to not mess it up?
SOLVED: lots of light little taps, you can watch it settle as you go. (Here is the thread on coloradofans That gave me the solution mentioned in post 17 then others on page 2 ABS light on dashboard after brake job. HELP! )

Also since that time, I have had a rattle/thunk sound from the drivers side. It initially was pronounced when off paved roads and driving slowly at a local farm (talking 5-10 mph tops). Didn’t do much with it at that point due to COVID (I had a shop do the brakes.) Once the rattle became apparent on rough paved roads I took it in and they saw nothing wrong structurally and said it was safe to drive. Got home and jacked it up and rocked the tire. More play in the direction suggestive of bad tie rod. Then when turning wheel with vehicle off (to get pry bar in) I felt a little knock. Put my hand on the outer tie link and felt some then put on inner tie rod and felt it more. Sound became much more noticeable and now occurs when driving on the interstate at about 70-85 mph. MEtalic rattle at that speed. Louder. took it in to same shop and had them replace driver side inner and outer tie rod. Sound persists but less noticeable on interstate.

Strange happenings that may or may not be related. AFter the brake job was done, I freqently felt a strange settling sensation or dropping sensation when rapidly letting off the brakes after stopping.
Additionally I can get a knocking sensation in the brake pedal on occasion when applying brakes and will hear a knock.
Solved knocking sensation= loose caliper bolt

I can also sometimes turn the steering wheel, with car running, and feel a pop in the brake pedal.
ALSO I have been hearing a popping noise from passenger front tire when turning, not always, sometimes. Always needs to be cool for it to happen. went away all summer. It sounds almost like something being stetched or loaded/unloaded. What’s interesting is if I do a hard turn to the left the popping is quite pronounced but only during that turn. I have to basically swerve to the right to have it “load up” again so that it will occur turning left. I can make it do it even on the interstate with a quick jerk of the wheel.
EDIT: replaced bushings on steering rack and pinion, popping continues.

Summary of things looked at/done:
  • passenger side outer tie rod link replaced (to try to stop cornering pop but continues)
  • drivers inner and outer tie rod replaced
  • replaced sway bar bushings
  • replaced rack and pinion bushings
-not seeing any real movement in sway bar Link but can easily rotate/reposition the rod on the ends

Summary of problems
  • abs on passenger side randomly fires = SOLVED sensor sticking out, tapped it back
  • metalic clunk/rattle drivers side
  • thunk when apply brakes = SOLVED loose caliper bolts
  • popping sound passenger side with turn and suspension flex
  • dropping sensation when rapidly let off brakes
 

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Steering rack bushings are a known problem. Lay under the truck and have another person turn the steering wheel. Look at the steering rack and see if it moves around in the mounts. Bad mounts can cause weird steering issues and odd tire wear. I’ve experienced both until I added a legit rack brace. Problem solved.

Check your steering intermediate shaft as well. The popping sound is fairly characteristic of a worn intermediate shaft. Mine would clunk at full steering lock if I flexed the suspension even alittle bit.

Check the sway bar links as well. They get loose or develop slop which causes clunky popping noises during body roll or suspension flex.

A knocking sound when applying the brakes could be your caliper bolts loosening up. I had a similar experience and found my caliper bolts were getting loose. I had to add Nordlock washers to keep them tight.

I have no suggestions regarding your ABS issue. My truck has a different ABS design so I have no experience with your setup.

I am no expert and please take my advice only as a suggestion. I’ve chased noises in my truck from day one it seems and solved all of them so far. Your noises may be different. It’s hard to diagnose noises via the internet.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply. I will try to get under it after work tonight but probably this weekend. will reply back with results.
 

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The ABS may be an electrical problem , check and clean the connection , don't bang on them . I don't think a sensor can be an intermittent problem unless the connection is bad .
 

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I would check your ball joints for the pass side popping issue. If any of the four balljoints are bad I would change them all. I had only a single upper balljoint that showed/sounded bad, but every ball joint was shot and needed replacement
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
After watching a few vidjeos, I bet that is my problem not on passenger but on driver side. Applied the brakes while going down intestate and still was getting some rattle/clunking. Will jack it up and look this weekend when looking at stabilizer and sway bar. After all the above, I suspect I have loose bolts on my driver caliper, bad ball joint on driver (would do all 4) and bad sway bar bushing or link on passenger. Will post up test results etc

ps i. Case you are wondering about vidjeos.... AvE
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
After getting underneath it today I found the caliper bolts on drivers side were loose as WV native suggested. I tightened and torqued to spec. Think that will solve the driver side rattling. EDIT: It didn't.

The passenger side speed sensor for abs was definitely cock-eyed. I used a light hammer to tap it back in place then took one of the extension rods from the jack kit, tapped it with a hammer to get to the tough areas and made sure it was fully seated all around.

Since I already had it up on jack stands I decided I was going to go ahead and replace sway bar bushings. End links seem solid as no sound or true movement with using a crowbar to pry on them. Broke one bolt in the process so had to drill it out. I dont have any taps so I cut a notch in the original bolt to make it more like a cutting screw and cleaned out the threads. No where local has bushings so ordered from amazon and should get them tomorrow. Now to find a replacement bolt. Any suggestions?

Edit to add -->Bolt, bought Dorman Help bolt from advance auto. Way too many choices. Went with something in the metric family. Seemed a tiny bit loose as could run it in petty good with fingers. perhaps it was just because not rusty.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
341752
Here you can see the right side is a little more proud than the left side. It’s subtle but makes a big difference. Look at the actual sensor top center and you can see the angulation better
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
thunk when applying brakes fixed. was loose caliper bolts.
sway bar bushings replaced. Heard pop this morning when cornering x2 but no further. time will tell
metallic rattle on drivers side still present. Going to give the sway bar links and ball joints another look.
settling/drop sensation when rapidly let off brakes continues.
 

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Discussion Starter #11

i think the issue may be in my rack and pinion bushings as suggested by WV native. Please correct me if I am wrong but there should be NO movement in the rack during turns. Looks like a few more bushings and bolts in my future. Am I on track?
 

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i think the issue may be in my rack and pinion bushings as suggested by WV native. Please correct me if I am wrong but there should be NO movement in the rack during turns. Looks like a few more bushings and bolts in my future. Am I on track?
The rack bushings in your video are worn and I’d recommend replacing them. I’ve personally seen worse but they are still allowing too much movement.

I always recommend the rack kit from Mayhem Metal Works. The factory bushings are simply inadequate and replacing them with the Mayhem Metal Works kit actually fixes the issue. The kit isn’t exactly cheap but worth every penny in my opinion.

Good luck. Please keep posting updates.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Do you think that could cause popping in turns on passenger and rattle on drivers side?
 

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Do you think that could cause popping in turns on passenger and rattle on drivers side?
I was hearing a popping sound in turns that sounded like it was coming from the passenger floorboard.

I also had bad feedback from the steering that was felt through the pedal assembly.

Adding the rack kit solved the popping noise and reduced my pedal feedback issue.

I never really had a rattle on the drivers side. Can you describe that any better?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ok so the popping in turns definitely sounds like that. The rattle is a metallic clanking, Sounds more like it is coming from the tire rather than floorboard area. I will try to get a video of the sound today driving back from work.I got one this AM but its not really clear because was hitting a lot of rough bridges. Sound comes when driving slow off paved roads and when driving at around 65-80mph? more of a rattle when driving fast and more of a clunk when going over bump. Kind of makes me think shock mount but cannot reproduce noise with basically jumping up and down on bumper.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)

Three videos of driver side noise. This is while going down interstate at about 70-80 mph.

Also bushing kit on the way for rack and pinion.

I think the settling sensation after letting off the brakes is the spine in the drive shaft sticking a little due to dried out grease. AKA “drive shaft thunk”. Will live with it a while till I have more time. Want to get this rattle figured out and will be installing bushings this weekend if wife doesn’t kill me. (Reference here https://community.cartalk.com/t/jolt-or-shifting-feeling-after-braking/31542)
 

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Three videos of driver side noise. This is while going down interstate at about 70-80 mph.

Also bushing kit on the way for rack and pinion.
Good Lord! That sounds horrible. I’ve never had anything sound like that.

My only suggestion is to literally crawl under your truck and pull/tug on every component you can get your hands on.

Whatever is making that noise should at least be loose when you grab it.

I’m very interested to know what it ends up being. I hope others may chime in if they’ve had a similar noise.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yes it sounds TERRIBLE. When doing rack bushings will literally tug on EVERYTHING rather than being selective. Will also go and take that brake caliper apart and all to make sure the caliper guide pin and bushing as suggested by old timer is not an issue. Hopefully someone will chime in with some clairvoyance.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
updates from the weekend. Rattle continues. Took brake caliper out of bracket and glide pins are new and lubed. Slight rocking movement in them when caliper not attached. Pulled on everything I could under the vehicle and nothing rattles. sway bar links are easy to rotate on axis but no evident movement up or down, in or out. Did notice the caliper on that side is a remanufactured unit. The rattle did not exist before taking it in for brakes and they changed out pads, rotors and I am assuming the caliper since it has shiny glide pins and says reman on it. Could it be a defective reman? If suspect this, how can I test to see?

Rack and pinion bushings changed. Pop on passenger side continues. I screwed up somehow and now the steering wheel is turned to the right a little to make it drive straight. I did NOT take the rack out of the vehicle to change bushings. I did not disconnect the steering wheel. I did do a lot of moving of the wheels themselves to get the rack back in place. How do I fix it? (besides getting a fourth alignment in a year)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ok so after a good bit of listening here is the new deal. Hear a squeaking sound from similar location as the metalic rattle on drivers side. Sounds like coming from higher up than the brakes. I’m suspecting the shock mount is bad. Every time it is up on jack stands (and a lift at mechanics) the sound changes somewhat Which leads me to believe it’s the mount. As for the passenger side, it does not,sound like coming from passenger floor board but rather a little above. Think8ng bad shock as well. Here is a video of the popping on passenger side. New video by It's me
 
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