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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, first post here. I have a 2008 Canyon with I5. A few days ago the temp around here dropped to 3*. Started the truck with no issues and never saw a problem. Drove about 25 miles and parked for 2 hrs. , moved the truck to use another car when I noticed a lot of oil drips in the gravel about the same areas as the cross members. Looked under the truck and it was covered in oil. Next day temp was around 40* and after a closer look it seemed to come from the bell housing, the front, top, back and sides of the engine were clean. Removed the bell housing plugs (2) and looked inside with a mirror best I could and found there was oil inside the housing but could not tell from where. Cleaned the area with brake clean and started the engine (after adding 3 quarts of oil to get it back full) did not see any more oil leaking. Drove it 14 miles and lost no oil and saw no drips or leaks from the housing. Sprayed the bottom of the truck at the car wash to get the oil off it. Since then have drove a total of 250 miles with no oil lose or drips. I read about 2 other Canyons with this same issue below 10*. They took it to the shop and the mechanic found nothing. A GM on line tech responded that the seal most likely shrunk while cold letting oil by, when warmed back up it was not visible. Any body ever have or hear of this. The local GM dealer mechanic/techs have never heard or seen an I5 with a bad rear main seal.
 

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I had two front main seals replaced on my 2012 I5 3.7L under warranty . However they leaked
not due to temp but faulty seal or harmonic balancer . Millage was low as well under 20,000
No problem with my rear seal though .

Are you still under 100,000 K warranty ?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No, 150,000+. I use Mobil 1 high mileage oil with a Fram synth micron filter. Read here where some one had a rear seal replaced at a dealer for $350 , locaL dealer wants $850+. too high for putin in a $20 dollar seal. If needed I'll do it my self.
The thing about it is its not leaking now. I have traveled the same route since and not lost any oil. There is a really steep hill I have to cross and the seal may have shrunk enough to let the oil pass as the oil would have been at the back and possible higher in the sump going up the hill but the front didnt leak going down the other side. The truck is an Off Road 2 wheel drive package and is high enough to get under, just have to have a jack tall enough to hold the transmission while pulling it back out of the way. The seal looks like the front seal and after removing the fly wheel should not be a problem to replace.
 

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You'll probably have to remove the rear cover. I don't know how easily the seal would be to get out with it on.
 

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I haven't heard of a lot of complaints about rear seal leaks on the I5 engines. Keep a close eye on the oil level. 3 quarts is a lot of oil to lose. If the leaks persists replacing the engine rear cover using a new gasket and a new crankshaft rear main seal will resolve the problem.

This bulletin is for the V8 but maybe worth a read...
http://www.355nation.net/forum/serv...engine-oil-leak-rear-cover-assembly-area.html
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Where can I find an exploded view of the rear of the engine. Does the rear cover have a gasket or just rtv?Going to do something this week end . Napa only shows a rear main seal.
 

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Item Number: 509
Part Number: 12579713
Description: HOUSING. Engine Rear Main Bearing
HOUSING,CR/SHF RR OIL SEAL. Required: 01
HOUSING,CR/SHF RR OIL SEAL(INCLS:HOUSING,SEAL,BOLT,RETAINER). Required: 01
For: N1 3.5-6(L52),PLANT OPERATION(JJA) (2006-2006) (2006 - 2006).
For: N1 3.7E(LLR) (2007-2010) (2007 - 2010).
For: ST1 3.5-6(L52),PLANT OPERATION(JJA) (2004-2006) (2006 - 2006).
Cost: $54.75

Item Number: 511
Part Number: 89018205
Description: SEAL. Engine Rear Main Bearing
SEAL,CR/SHF RR OIL. Required: 01
For: N1 3.5-6(L52) (2006-2006) (2006 - 2006).
For: N1 3.7E(LLR) (2007-2010) (2007 - 2010).
For: ST1 3.5-6(L52) (2004-2006) (2006 - 2006).
Cost: $21.45
 

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Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal and Housing Replacement

Special Tools
  • J 8092 Driver Handle
  • J 44215 Rear Seal Installer

Removal Procedure

  1. Remove the flywheel (requires removing the transmission). Refer to Engine Flywheel Replacement.
  2. Remove the 2 bolts securing the oil pan to the crankshaft rear oil seal housing.
  3. Remove the crankshaft rear oil seal housing bolts.
  4. Install 2 bolts into the threaded holes to act as jack screws and tighten evenly to release the crankshaft rear oil seal housing from the engine block and oil pan.
  5. Remove the crankshaft rear oil seal housing.
  6. Remove the 2 bolts from the jack screw holes.


    Note: Do not damage the seal bore.

  7. Using a hammer and a punch, remove the crankshaft rear oil seal from the crankshaft rear oil seal housing. Discard the seal.
  8. Clean and inspect the crankshaft rear oil seal housing.
  9. Clean and inspect the engine block and oil pan sealing surface.


Installation Procedure


Note: The crankshaft rear oil seal housing must be installed within 10 minutes from when the sealer was applied.


  1. Apply a 3 mm (0.12 in) bead of sealer (1) to the following:
    • The crankshaft rear oil seal housing, were the housing meets the engine block
    • The surface of the crankshaft rear oil seal housing, were the housing meets the oil pan
    • The surface of the oil pan, were the oil pan meets the housing
    • Refer to Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers.


    Note: Tilting the crankshaft rear oil seal housing will allow sealer between the housing and
    the oil pan.

  2. Complete the following to install the crankshaft rear oil seal housing:
    1. Align the housing with the right alignment dowel, tilting the left side up slightly.
    2. Align the housing with the left alignment dowel.
    3. Press the housing against the engine block into place.
  3. Install the crankshaft rear oil seal housing bolts.
  4. Install the 2 oil pan bolts.
    • Tighten the crankshaft rear oil seal housing bolts to 10 N·m (89 lb in).
    • Tighten the (end) oil pan bolts to 10 N·m (89 lb in).
  5. Lightly lubricate the crankshaft rear oil seal lip with clean engine oil.
  6. Position the plastic installation sleeve supplied with the new seal to the crankshaft.
  7. Use the J 44215 with the J 8092 and a hammer to install the crankshaft rear oil seal into the crankshaft rear oil seal housing.
    • Ensure the seal is installed square.
    • The seal will bottom out in the housing when fully installed.
  8. Install the flywheel. Refer to Engine Flywheel Replacement.
 

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The Service Manual provides instructions for replacing the oil seal with and without removing the housing. I have not worked on these engines, but it appears that there are benefits to both ways of doing it. If you don't remove the housing, you will have to work around the crankshaft. If you remove the housing, it will provide easier access to the seal, but you will have to deal with resealing the housing.
 

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My 07' has been leaking intermittently. The worst time I lost a quart before it sealed itself back up somehow. My truck isn't my daily so I'm not concerned.
 

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Well at least its easy access with the transmission removed
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
How much of a bear is it to install the seal with out the tool and how does removing the cover effect the oil pan seal in that area after it has been resealed? Removing and resealing the rear cover when doing the main seal would eliminate 3 possible leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Hey guys, thanks for all the info. Quck up date, this past week end had time to get the seal in. After dropping the trans on the jack and rolling it back (just luck the one trans tail shaft plug I had fit) out of the way, I checked the rear cover and didnt see any leaks. It wasnt leaking and looked like way more work and time to pull it and hope the pan sealed back up. There was dripping from the seal after wiping across it. Hosed the rear engine and inside the bell houseing to clean all the oil from both sides and start off clean. removeing the seal was simple. Put a flat blade screw driver in the slot (its angled ) and tapped with a soft dead blow until the seal popped up and then pryed it up on the other side. Cleaned the cup with brake cleaner and scotchbrite. Oiled the seal and slid it onto the crank. Tapped around lightly with the soft hammer and used a punch the lightly knock it in. Could only find a 3m tape cup to fit close but didnt do much. I got it all the way down with out damageing it. Got it back together and running. No leaks so far.
There were 2 things that were a real pain. The 2 top bell houseing bolts with the coolent tube running across the back of the engine and the torque converter bolts. First run at this I didnt see any problem untill trying to get a wrench in the bell houseing. The one wrench I dont have, a deep offset 18mm. Had to borrow that. Its been 20+ yrs since I pulled a trans (77 Camaro) so this one was very different.
Thanks again for all the info and help.

While removing the drive shaft I noticed a lot of play in the pinion back lash. Is there a thread on this for an 08' ?
 
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