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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I plan on bagging my truck here in the next couple months so I decided to start figuring out what all I need to do/build/buy. I've come up with a few quick renderings of my idea and figured I'd lay them out here for you to look at, this is my first suspension build so any input is well appreciated.







Cheers,
Mike
 

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Looks like a solid setup to me. I don't know a ton about suspension design, but IIRC your links should be as close to the same length as possible, and the bottom links should be as close to parallel with the ground at ride height (correct me if I'm wrong).

With the way you have the bottom links running by the frame, you could do a BOB setup and get more lift.
 

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Looks like a solid setup to me. I don't know a ton about suspension design, but IIRC your links should be as close to the same length as possible, and the bottom links should be as close to parallel with the ground at ride height (correct me if I'm wrong).

With the way you have the bottom links running by the frame, you could do a BOB setup and get more lift.
If that's a triangulated 4 link the uppers need to be close to a 40* angle I believe and ahelm3 yeah equal length is great and I think the shortest you want to do for uppers is 70% of the lowers and shorter and you will have more pinion change through travel and yeah I have always been told lowers parallel with the ground at ride hight but that's not always posable with big wheel and tire combos and a low ride hight
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I believe that's just a hair below ride height, so the lowers will be angled up in the rear. I can move the lower mounts up on the crossmember and that'd level them out more, I could also move the upper mounts to the top of the crossmember, that would bring the fore links in and get me closer to the 40* for the triangulated support, I was told that a forward triangulated 4 link used the triangulation to center the axle and a panhard bar or watts link would be unnecessary.

ahelm3, assuming BOB is a bag-over-bar setup, I'd considered that briefly, but with the notch that is required anyways I figured this would be plenty without overengineering the setup. I plan on using the slam specialties SS-7 bags for the rear, the weight of the truck should be well supported by the capacity of the bags, and the 9.3 inches of travel was more than enough for what I was wanting. currently my frame sits about 8 inches off the ground and I wanted my ride height an inch lower, doing that it leaves 7 inches of travel to lay frame, and if I give the .3 inches to buffer room on the frame after it's on the ground (assuming a completely flat surface) I still have another 2 inches of the SS-7 bags travel above the desired ride height, which I feel should be plenty for whatever may be required of the trucks suspension.

I'll get back on the rear section when I get home and move those links up, keep in mind the links will be full heim, and what's pictured is only for illustration (also it was 3 in the morning and I had to work at 8...) So I may or may not put together the heim'ed links for rendering.
 

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:cheers: Seems like you have a pretty solid grasp on it
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I think I do, My dad used to design and build drag cars here in Hendorsonville, so I get a lot of help from him although most of this design I've scavenged from the web and trial and error in Inventor. I can't thank you guys enough for the input. I'm excited to get home tonight and play with it some more, you can expect some more renderings around 7:30 or 8:00 tonight after I've moved some things around.
 

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What are you using? Pro-E, Inventor?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I use Autodesk Inventor
 

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Discussion Starter #10
7:30 on the nose, here are a few more renderings, I've given it a little thought and I think I'll move the links down a little on the cross member for the lower links.

Full drop!




Ride Height




Going to make some more changes, More shortly!

Cheers,
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Took the top attatchments down 1.5" and the lower attachments back down to the bottom of the cross member, which is 2" lower.


 

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Looks better , only other thing to keep in mind is instant center . So like using one of your side view pix with the lower bars level you will want to have the upper pointing down just a bit also so that if you drew an imaginary line the continued the upper and lower bars until they intersected that would be you point of instant center . There are tons of opinions on where this intersection needs to be some say it needs to be around the crank of the motor some say middle of the grill some say back of the cab . For me I aim for around the center of the passenger compartment closer to the floor but to make you judgment call search instant center , roll center , anti squat and you will find good references on which locations give different driving manners like the rear will lift when on the gas or it will squat when on the gas or vise versa when hitting the brakes

Keep in mind a lot of the info will be for short length links on drag cars and well most drag cars don't drive so hot on the street because they are not set up for it so you will be setting yours up differently
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks, I've been looking at the instant center, what I found was to aim for the firewall or below the firewall/front of transmission, which would be pretty close to the center of the passenger compartment. That'll be next issue to address.
 

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Most drag cars use the camshaft as the reference point. Like was stated earlier most drag cars don't drive well on the streets.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hey guys, It's payday! I was wanting to go ahead and start ordering some parts, I've decided on the SS-7 bags, but what do you guys recommend on tanks, lines, valves/manifolds, air management, shocks, compressors and all the other good stuff?

Cheers,
Mike
 

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Yep like fox23 said accuair e-level and vu4 slam ss6 front ss7 rear

I like the new suspension specialties new seamless tanks , I'm going to run either one big one or two medium ones on my wagoneer
 

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Accuair E-Level and VU4 FTW. Will never go back.
Yep like fox23 said accuair e-level and vu4 slam ss6 front ss7 rear
I may be in the past, but I don't mind a switch box and analog gauges...Accuair would be nice, but you're looking at $1,000+ that could go elsewhere. As far as valves, I have an ASCO manifold, its worked flawlessly the last 6 years.

Personally I run the Slam RE Series bags, RE7 in front and RE8 in the rear.
Tanks, I would go with stainless steel to avoid rusting. I run 2 5-Gallon tanks and 2 Viair 480 Compressors.
 
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