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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
08 2.9 4x4 manual LS The truck is getting up there in miles, I just went through a good maintenance spat and figured This issue would get fixed while I was fixing the other issues but it hasn’t, so when idling it sounds like I have a huge cam or something it’s a loud rough noise, rpm bounces between 500 and 900, every now and then it’ll be just fine. Sometimes when accelerating it will hesitate, sometimes when maintaining at a speed it will start jumping like I’m to low of a gear, and if going above 55 and let off the gas pedal it will begin to rattle pretty hard. The spat it went through was a p0300. And front wheel bearing problem. This issue started about the same time so here’s what I’ve changed since the issue started. Tie rods ball joints both bearings drivers side cv axle all brake parts maf sensor map sensor vvt solenoid cam sensor intake gasket spark plugs coil packs both evap solenoids injectors wheels tires battery intake air filter. That’s everything I can remember since this started, I’m not throwing any codes and have none pending. My thoughts are cat converter, I’ve noticed the exhaust seems to be rattling at idle, throttle body ive cleaned it extra during the p0300 but I noticed the actual “plate” isnt as stiff as it used to be. Or steering column.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Just for helping out anyone who looks at this buddy at work suggested engine mounts so we’re gonna look at that after work
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Im curious to know how much trouble replacing those mounts is.
It looks like they might be starting to go, I looked at it how to replace them today, it looks like I can take a knuckle breaker on one of my larger extensions and hit the top through the wheel well, the bottom looks like I can get it with a small extension or maybe a deep well from below the truck, then the actual center tension one looks like looks like I’m just gonna have to take two normal wrenches through the wheel well and go to town, I was gonna start tonight but I don’t have my cherry picker, honestly I can’t tell if they’re bad or not so I guess I’m just gonna wait until the weekend when I can get my tool back. Looked at just jacking the engine up a little bit from the bottom but I can’t find a good spot big enough to hold without hitting the oil pan. If anyone knows a better way I’d love to hear it.
 

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So you don't think supporting the engine with some rubber on the Jack will be sufficient on the pan? I know not to lift a vehicle at the pan, but left to my own devices I may have just supported the engine on it, while replacing one mount at a time. Forgive me if that's a stupid idea.... that's why I'm asking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So you don't think supporting the engine with some rubber on the Jack will be sufficient on the pan? I know not to lift a vehicle at the pan, but left to my own devices I may have just supported the engine on it, while replacing one mount at a time. Forgive me if that's a stupid idea.... that's why I'm asking.
Brother... I hope a better man than me see this and gives you an answer, I’m not a smart man, I don’t know how thick the oil pan is, I’m working on a dirt driveway so if things aren’t perfect messing with the jack I’m out and waiting to go ask my uncle why my cherry picker never made it home seems like a better idea than risking it to me. He also has some rifles he’s wanting my help putting together so I figure he comes brings the picker back helps with the truck and I fix his guns. I’m summary I’m a dumb man playing it safe
 

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Haha. Maybe someone will come along and raise the average smarts in the room! While not too bright, at least im patient.
 

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Check for a loose intake or exhaust manifold. Test the fuel pressure.

Here's the mount removal procedures from the service manual:

Left side mount procedure:
  1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
  2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
  3. Remove the engine shield if equipped.
  4. Remove the lower intermediate steering shaft.
  5. Support the engine using a jack stand and a block of wood.
  6. Remove the engine mount-to-frame bracket through bolt for the mount being replaced.
  7. Loosen the right side through bolt.
  8. Remove the heater pipe bracket bolt from the engine mount.
  9. Raise the engine using the jack stand; the engine will tilt to one side.
  10. Remove the engine mount bolts.
  11. Remove the engine mount. You will need to articulate the mount in order to remove the mount.
Right mount procedure:
  1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
  2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
  3. Remove the engine shield if equipped.
  4. Support the engine using a jack stand and a block of wood.
  5. Remove the engine mount-to-frame bracket through bolt for the mount being replaced.
  6. Loosen the left side through bolt.
  7. Raise the engine using the jack stand. The engine will tilt to one side.
  8. Remove the engine mount bolts.
  9. Remove the engine mount. You will need to articulate the mount in order to remove the mount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I’ve done all that but check the exhaust manifold I looked for exhaust leaking at night with a flashlight, I can’t see anything leaking, thanks for the excerpt from the manual, does it say where to support the engine with the jack stand? I don’t like the idea of putting it on the oil pan and most of the bottom of the engine is oil pan. But seriously thanks it’s good to have it
 

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Nothing in the manual about where to put the wood/jack. I'd avoid the pan just because its a complete PITA to remove if you broke it.
 

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changing both mounts bills as a 2.1 hour job. This is one of those straight forward jobs I'd probably have my mechanic do since I don't have a lift.
 
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