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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here are some suggestions, information, and fixes for those annoying noises!

I have been putting this together for a little while and it is still a work in progress but I wanted to get it out there for everyone to start using. If you have something you would like added feel free to suggest it. Any and all input is appreciated.


Squeaks, Creaks, Squeals, and Groans​


Exterior:


Front End

Sound: Squeak
Cause: Bushings - Skyjacker Control Arms
Reference: Doesn't seem to be a guaranteed fix but the suggestions worked for some.

Sound: Weird Squeak
Cause: Grille supports not pressed in all the way
Reference: http://www.355nation.net/forum/chassis/46304-help-weird-squeak.html

Sound: Squeak
Cause: Engine/belt squeak
Reference: squeek from engine, not sure if it's belt
Drive Belt: Testing and Inspection - Drive Belt Chirping, Squeal, and Whine Diagnosis
Drive Belt Squeal


Rear End

Sound: Squeak/Groan
Cause: Dirt/debris have made its way between the leaf springs.
Fix: Pull apart and clean or pressure wash the leaf pack to remove the dirt. Could always use something to lube the leaf packs like WD-40 or grease.
Reference: Suspension Spring ( Coil / Leaf ): All Technical Service Bulletins
Suspension - Squeak Noise from Rear of Vehicle



Other

Sound: Loud Squeak/groan:
Most common cause: Cab mounts
Fix: Remove bolts and grease the inside of the cab mount where the bolt goes through.
Reference: http://www.355nation.net/forum/chassis/115497-may-want-inspect-your-cab-frame-mounts.html
http://www.355nation.net/forum/brakes/53489-creeping-noise-upon-start-stop.html
Squeaky sound when hitting bumps??
Body / Frame Mount Bushing: All Technical Service Bulletins - Body - Underbody Squeak/Creak/Crunch Noise


Sound: Squeak
Cause: U-Joints
Fix: Replace
Reference: Squeeking Under the Vehicle



Interior:


Sound: Squeak
Cause: Armrest Squeak [Possibly related: Center console squeak (near the passenger side seat belt.)
Reference: Armrest Squeek?



Extra Tips:

The street scene front bumper cover is known for squeaking too. (where the bumper meets the drivers side fender).




Rattles and Buzzes​


Exterior:


Front End

Sound: rattle
Cause: hood hinge bolt slightly loose
Fix: tighten hinge bolt
Notes: this rattle can be difficult to trace. You will hear it at low speeds, as in a parking-lot, etc. I originally guessed it to be a loose front fender-liner. A 1/4-inch drive ratchet with socket is needed. Use caution, it's tough to get a ratchet in the space available. A slip here can scratch your hood.

Sound: Rattle
Cause: Exhaust System
Reference:
Exhaust Manifold: Customer Interest - Rattles/Buzzes At Idle/Start Up
Heat Shield: Customer Interest - Underhood/Underbody Rattle


Rear End

Sound: Rattle/Buzz
Cause: Exhaust System
Reference: Exhaust Pipe/Muffler Hanger: All Technical Service Bulletins - Rattles/Buzzes At Idle/Start Up


Other

Cause: Under vehicle: wiring harness
Reference: Wiring Harness: Customer Interest - Rattle Noise From Under Vehicle



Interior:


Sound: chassis rattle/clunk
Cause: body-frame mount, when the weldnut on the bottom of the body breaks loose
Fix: Weld in a new nut
Notes: The bolt that holds the body to the frame goes up from the bottom of the frame through the mount, and threads into a weldnut in the bottom of the cab body. The weldnut is enclosed in a "pocket" formed and welded into the sheet-metal at the cab floor.
Procedure: Locate the area over the weldnut inside the cab and pull back the carpet. Use a torch to cut open a small hole over the weldnut. Remove the original weldnut. Weld a new nut [castle-nut suggested] (size?) in the same location and apply primer to prevent rust. Weld the flap that was cut from the floor to access the nut back into place. When replacing the original bolt, use anti-seize.
Pic of right-front cab mount weldnut: http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff432/Ricoshian/IMG_2098.jpg (the rust in that pic is only an old piece of sheetmetal placed to protect carpet)

Sound: Clunk/rattle coming from the doors.
Cause: Speakers
Fix: Remove door panels, tighten bolts, IIRC stockers are 10mm




Clunks/Bangs/Pops​


Exterior


Front End

Sound: Clunk
Cause: Brake Caliper:
Fix: Greased the slide pins on their caliper and it seems to have fixed the issue.
Reference: http://www.355nation.net/forum/chassis/59642-clunk-front-end.html

Sound: Clunk
Description: Clunk from what sounded like the passenger front of the truck. Found out DRIVER side swaybar endlink was loose.
Cause: Loose swaybar end link
Fix: You should be able to just tighten it/them down to fix. My specific remedy was replacing the stock endlinks with moog (which I was doing before I realized that is where the clunk was coming from).

Sound: Clunk when turning left or right
Cause: Body Mounts
Fix: Tighten body mount bolts.

Sound: Clunk
Cause: Steering Shaft
Reference: http://www.355nation.net/forum/service-bulletins/18864-service-bulletin-steering-clunk-knock-felt-steering-wheel-pedals-2007-2008-a.html?highlight=clunk
Steering Shaft: Customer Interest - Clunk/Knock Felt In Steering Wheel/Pedals (3.5L)
Steering Shaft: All Technical Service Bulletins - Clunk/Knock Felt In Steering Wheel/Pedals (2.9L)

Sound: Pop
Cause: Most likely clips in passenger front wheel well
Description: In a gradual left hand turn under no acceleration or braking, there's a popping sound eminating from either the passengers side floor pan or the passengers side wheel well. This also happens when driving in a straight line and then swaying the truck back and forth very quickly from side to side.
Fix: Thread contains semi-fix (Check post 14 for possible fix)
Reference: http://www.355nation.net/forum/chassis/61091-another-noise-passengers-side-front-wheel-well.html


Rear End

Sound: Clunk
Cause: Spare tire lift assembly
Fix: Tightened and sprayed the crap out of it with WD40

Sound: Clunk
Cause: Exhaust Hitting Driveshaft
Fix: Move/Re-hang Exhaust
Reference: http://www.355nation.net/forum/i4-i5-engine-drivetrain/79034-axle-vertical-clunk.html


Other

Sound: Clunk
Description: Clunk when shifting transmission from D to R
Most likely cause: U-joints
Fix: Replace U-joints
Reference: http://www.355nation.net/forum/chassis/53646-loud-clunk-please-help-vid-inside.html




Grinding/Rubbing/Whining/Moaning/Growling​


Exterior

Front End

Sound: Moaning/Growling
Cause: Front Axle
Reference: Constant Velocity Joint Boot: Customer Interest
Drivetrain - Front Axle Rubbing/Moaning/Growling Noises



Sound: Whistle/hiss/hum
Cause: A/C related
Reference: Evaporator Core: All Technical Service Bulletins - Whistle/Hiss/Hum or Ring Noise With A/C ON
Hose/Line HVAC: Customer Interest - Moan/Whine Noise Under Heavy Load


Interior


Sound: Audio whine noise when using OnStar
Cause: Interference
Reference: Radio/Stereo Noise Filter: All Technical Service Bulletins Audio System - Noise When Using OnStar(R)




Other Miscellaneous Sounds​


Exterior:


Front End



Rear End



Other



Interior:


Sunroof / Moonroof Panel: All Technical Service Bulletins - Water leaks/ Wind Noise From The Sunroof




Unsolved Mysteries​

Want to take a shot at helping another member out or think you might know a fix? Here is a list of unsolved noises from late 2013 through now:

Clunks/bangs/smacks/pops

http://www.355nation.net/forum/chassis/100810-weird-clunk-when-i-get-my-truck.html
http://www.355nation.net/forum/chassis/114033-front-end-clunk-tie-rod-end.html
http://www.355nation.net/forum/i4-i5-engine-drivetrain/28877-loud-clunk-driveline.html


Grinding/Rubbing/Whining/Moaning/Growling

Rattles

Squeaks, Creaks, and Squeals

http://www.355nation.net/forum/chassis/11460-squeaky-truck.html
http://www.355nation.net/forum/chassis/57551-dern-chassis-squeaks-creaks-noises.html
http://www.355nation.net/forum/lowering/44567-insane-squeaking-noise-please-help.html
Strange squeek after TB crank
 

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I've got the 5.3 belt chirp. I read somewhere else that it comes from the A/C compressor being misaligned. I believe there was a service bulletin sent to dealerships related to it. I haven't removed my belts to test that theory out though...
 

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That godforsaken armrest squeak....ugh. I can hear it now, and I'm not even in the truck.

I need to fix that...
 

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^^^ Is there some reason you do not start your own thread?
Perhaps he's providing information for the first post...

A clunk that can be added

Front
Sound: Clunk when turning left or right
Cause: Body Mounts:
Fix: Tighten body mount bolts.

Searching right now for a reference... I've seen this posted a few times on here.
 

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Just putting the information out there since it's mentioned in the 3rd "problem." I'm trying to find the service bulletin so it could be added to the list, but I'm not having much luck.
 

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[MTS] Who is this guy?
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3,779 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Nice work Justin. It's nice having all this information in one location.
Another good write up with a lot of good info
this thread is great!!! everyone will be using this for sure......EVERYONE :lol:
I've got the 5.3 belt chirp. I read somewhere else that it comes from the A/C compressor being misaligned. I believe there was a service bulletin sent to dealerships related to it. I haven't removed my belts to test that theory out though...
Perhaps he's providing information for the first post...

A clunk that can be added

Front
Sound: Clunk when turning left or right
Cause: Body Mounts:
Fix: Tighten body mount bolts.

Searching right now for a reference... I've seen this posted a few times on here.

Thanks guys for the responses!

To everyone: Please post any information you can add that you do not find here. I will be more than happy to add it.
 

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Excellent, excellent work!

Sound: exterior rattle
Cause: hood hinge bolt slightly loose
Fix: tighten hinge bolt

Further notes: this rattle can be difficult to trace. You will hear it at low speeds, as in a parking-lot, etc.
I originally guessed it to be a loose front fender-liner.
A 1/4-inch drive ratchet with socket is needed. Use caution, it's tough to get a ratchet in the space available.
A slip here can scratch your hood.



Sound: chassis rattle/clunk
Cause: body-frame mount, when the weldnut on the bottom of the body breaks loose
Fix: Weld in a new nut
Pic of my right-front cab mount weldnut:


Further notes: (the rust in that pic is only an old piece of sheetmetal placed to protect my carpet)
This one is ugly.. The bolt that holds the body to the frame goes up from the bottom of the frame thru the mount,
and threads into a weldnut in the bottom of the cab body.
The weldnut though is enclosed in a "pocket" formed and welded into the sheet-metal at the cab floor.
Procedure: Locate the area over the weldnut inside the cab, pull back the carpet. Use a torch to cut open a small rectangular hole over the weldnut.
Remove the original weldnut. Place a large castle-nut (size?) in the same location, weld it in place, apply primer to prevent rust. Weld the flap that was cut from the floor to access the nut back into place. When replacing the original bolt, use anti-seize.
 

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CLUNK/RATTLE
Interior (crew cab)
Sound: Clunk/rattle coming from the doors.
Cause: Speakers
Fix: Remove door panels, tighten bolts, IIRC stockers are 10mm.
 

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Oh mein you sir amazing. You've address many noises I have yet to fix and many I have already. Great info and thanks for taking the time.
 

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[MTS] Who is this guy?
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3,779 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
this thread is priceless!!!! thanks Skizzo!
Excellent, excellent work!

Sound: exterior rattle
Cause: hood hinge bolt slightly loose
Fix: tighten hinge bolt

Further notes: this rattle can be difficult to trace. You will hear it at low speeds, as in a parking-lot, etc.
I originally guessed it to be a loose front fender-liner.
A 1/4-inch drive ratchet with socket is needed. Use caution, it's tough to get a ratchet in the space available.
A slip here can scratch your hood.



Sound: chassis rattle/clunk
Cause: body-frame mount, when the weldnut on the bottom of the body breaks loose
Fix: Weld in a new nut
Pic of my right-front cab mount weldnut:


Further notes: (the rust in that pic is only an old piece of sheetmetal placed to protect my carpet)
This one is ugly.. The bolt that holds the body to the frame goes up from the bottom of the frame thru the mount,
and threads into a weldnut in the bottom of the cab body.
The weldnut though is enclosed in a "pocket" formed and welded into the sheet-metal at the cab floor.
Procedure: Locate the area over the weldnut inside the cab, pull back the carpet. Use a torch to cut open a small rectangular hole over the weldnut.
Remove the original weldnut. Place a large castle-nut (size?) in the same location, weld it in place, apply primer to prevent rust. Weld the flap that was cut from the floor to access the nut back into place. When replacing the original bolt, use anti-seize.
CLUNK/RATTLE
Interior (crew cab)
Sound: Clunk/rattle coming from the doors.
Cause: Speakers
Fix: Remove door panels, tighten bolts, IIRC stockers are 10mm.
Oh mein you sir amazing. You've address many noises I have yet to fix and many I have already. Great info and thanks for taking the time.

Thanks guys.

If you make a suggestion please try to include the relevant thread if there is one.
 

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I have a clunk noise when disengaging the clutch when shifting from 1st- 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. Possibly the u-joints or more likely something the transmission itself?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I have a clunk noise when disengaging the clutch when shifting from 1st- 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. Possibly the u-joints or more likely something the transmission itself?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Would haft to be near destroyed for a u joint to"clunk" while changing gears... Check out the drive pole... Should be loose if it is making any noise... Good luck with your truck !!
 

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I'm sorry but what is the drive pole?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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