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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys so my truck reached 159k miles so decide that it might be time to change out the spark plus and serpitine belt.so I changed out the belt and the replaced the spark plus on each coil and then went to start it and it would start and then turn off so I put back every back the way it was each spark plug and the belt it had and now I turned on but it Boggs at idle and when I put in drive and step on the gas is sounds like s*** and it's bogging like it want to turn off ... I've check the connections 3x and each plug is on there tight and coil is directly on top of the spark plug idk what to do please help!
 

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Coils may be damaged during the install. Not sure, just a guess. Take it with a grain of salt.

edit: also, take the belt off. Start it and see if it runs smooth. If so, then check the tensioner pulley assembly. Dont leave it running, just long enough to check.
 

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What did you gap them at; did you verify the gap on them?

Also, what plugs did you get?

Details are a bit vague to give you an honest assessment
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok I will try to see if I idle smooth with the belt off, the coils looked like in good condition when I put then back on....

Went to autozone and BOSH PLATINUM SPARK PLUGS GAP AR .40
I did the battery thing and nothing then drove the truck and acceleration respond sucks and feels like it wants to turn off.. Check engine light flashes on and off
 

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Pull codes also. It will help isolate the problem. Doesn't sound like is going to be the tensioner pulley. Just figured since you did the belt also then it would easily rule out anything associated with the belt change. Flashing CEL should give the required info to diagnose.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
took the truck for a drive and on the status bar is displayed REDUCED POWER while I was drivingthe truck around, any ideas where to start. looking at ?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I dnt think its the throttle body cause I removed it about 2 weeks ago cause it was idling high and cleaned it out and it was running smooth, and I replaced the fuel filter at the same time and no issues when I changed it no check engine light or nothing and this all happened when I decide to changed the spark plugs. to me is sounds like a miss fire but I dnt what a bad coil looks like of what im suppose to be looking at ?
 

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I saw something that said to check the resistance on each coil to make sure they match accross all coils. Then also saw to check vacuum lines. Do you have a mmultimeter to check resistance on the coil packs. Dont know the process. You can probably search youtube for that.

If the check engine light is on, I would get the codes. That will narrow down the blind search.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
yeah same video that i looked up to make sure that i was doing it right and i did exactly as it said and now i got this problem ! well i have a multi meter but not with me im traveling and i left it at home
 

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Ok I will try to see if I idle smooth with the belt off, the coils looked like in good condition when I put then back on....

Went to autozone and BOSH PLATINUM SPARK PLUGS GAP AR .40
I did the battery thing and nothing then drove the truck and acceleration respond sucks and feels like it wants to turn off.. Check engine light flashes on and off
The plugs come pre gapped so if you changed them to .40 you need to close the the gap back to .043. The truck will not run right with that big of gap.
 

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Not saying this is the sole concern, but does anybody remember reading that the Bosch plugs aren't very good for our engines? Again, they should at least fire though.

I guess the Platinum plugs don't have the same rule as Iridium plugs? The rule of do not gap them or you risk damaging the plug?
People need to confirm all of what I said.....
 

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Discussion Starter #19
well ive had nothing be bosch on the truck since i got her 5yrs ago and i haven't got any problems until now idk what i did wrong if anything ive been review everything that i can find and it either related to a bad coil or a vacuum line open but i have made sure that they are on there and im going to see if i can get the truck to a shop to see if i can get the code to see what it is im hoping its something small...
 

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An autoparts store should be able to read the code for you too.

It's rough running now with the previous plugs installed right?

A code will help, it will be interesting to find out if you have a coincidental bad coil pack. A code will pop indicating which cylinder is faulty. Is it easy to swap the coils? I've never had mine off. If so, IF you get a code indicating it's a bad coil I'd suggest moving the faulty coil pack to another cylinder and asking the parts store to rescan. If the code moves, pick up a new coil. If the same code persists after moving the coil, then it is something else.
Does that make sense?
 
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