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We've given you a few tings to try now, it's up to you on what you want to do. Good luck.
Temp Issue
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You didn't mention what brand pump and thermostat you used. I hope you didn't use " white box " parts . That said ,sounds like a thermostat not opening completely. Are you sure the coolant is a 50/50 mix? You might want to consider a Gates #34045 / 187 degree thermostat before trying anything else. Don't focus so much on an actual temperature. What you want is a temperature reading on your dash gauge that is very close to what is was before you did repairs.
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If you have a problem where your truck is not quickly cooling after a heat soak the problem most likely is either the radiator cap or the hose between the radiator and the overflow tank. This is where the expansion (hot) and contraction (cool) of the coolant takes place and if everything is not perfect it will not properly pull the coolant back into the system which creates a pocket. Consider a new AC Delco radiator cap & maybe the hose.
If your problem isn't recovery after a heat soak but the truck is just running too hot and not cooling properly take a hard look at the fan clutch. If the fan clutch doesn't feel right or there is any leakage out of the shaft seal replace it. If you do replace it be sure to use an OEM AC Delco which cost about $85. at rockauto.com.
If your problem isn't recovery after a heat soak but the truck is just running too hot and not cooling properly take a hard look at the fan clutch. If the fan clutch doesn't feel right or there is any leakage out of the shaft seal replace it. If you do replace it be sure to use an OEM AC Delco which cost about $85. at rockauto.com.
Alright Guys I bought a Scan Gauge II the Temp was around 200°F to 204°F Driving down the Road with the A/C on. Ambient temp was around 105°F. When I can to stop and waiting a few mins. it was anywhere between 205°F to 211°F.
This Morning Temp was higher 204°F to 207°F Driving down the Road Ambient Temp was 72°F. Got to work and popped the Hood that top Hose was tight. Going to Burp the System on my Lunch Break. This Scan Gauge is Awesome!
This Morning Temp was higher 204°F to 207°F Driving down the Road Ambient Temp was 72°F. Got to work and popped the Hood that top Hose was tight. Going to Burp the System on my Lunch Break. This Scan Gauge is Awesome!
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Those numbers sound about right on the new style tstats. Perfect candidate for a shim imo. I want to say they’re a self burping system with the overflow being the highest point
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Eldude64, those numbers are where I would expect them. The difference between the 105F & 72F ambient temperatures make a big difference to the thermostatically controlled fan clutch. When cruising to work in 72F the fan probably never cycled on while at 105F with the A/C blasting it probably was cycling frequently. Remember the fan is cycled depending on the air temperature sensed by the thermostatic clutch after the A/C condenser and the radiator. The result can be slightly warmer coolant temperatures under light cooling loads when the fan isn't cycling on.
Seems good to me.
Seems good to me.
Dude I'll tell you exactly what it is.
It doesn't matter what number the stat says, the one you're gonna get at the store is gonna, almost without a doubt, be different it two ways. 1, it's going to be a hotter stat. 2, the disc itself is actually smaller in diameter than the oem. GM did this to solve two problems allegedly. Firstwas to lower emmission and second to raise mpg. Apparently this is accomplished by raising cylinder head temps. I found this out the hard way. Got a 187° from rock auto, got the hot running condition, then got another from my local advance. Both were stamped 187°. Both were 195. I chased my own ass for three days after a rebuild until I talked to a buddy that has a buddy who's an engineer here at the Tonawanda engine plant... where they made the atlas. I thought it was bullshit at first. Thought it was air bound. Tried everything. Wound up digging the old neck and stat out of my box of old parts, reinstalled it (which is great fun for a guy that doesn't have squirrel sized hands) and it came back down to middle of dial or even a bit lower. I may have invented some new cuss words over all of that.
It doesn't matter what number the stat says, the one you're gonna get at the store is gonna, almost without a doubt, be different it two ways. 1, it's going to be a hotter stat. 2, the disc itself is actually smaller in diameter than the oem. GM did this to solve two problems allegedly. Firstwas to lower emmission and second to raise mpg. Apparently this is accomplished by raising cylinder head temps. I found this out the hard way. Got a 187° from rock auto, got the hot running condition, then got another from my local advance. Both were stamped 187°. Both were 195. I chased my own ass for three days after a rebuild until I talked to a buddy that has a buddy who's an engineer here at the Tonawanda engine plant... where they made the atlas. I thought it was bullshit at first. Thought it was air bound. Tried everything. Wound up digging the old neck and stat out of my box of old parts, reinstalled it (which is great fun for a guy that doesn't have squirrel sized hands) and it came back down to middle of dial or even a bit lower. I may have invented some new cuss words over all of that.
By the way, when I rebuilt the engine, I used all AC Delco parts unless I absolutely could not get them. That includes the water pump, hoses and fan clutch. Everything was new. Take my word for it, it's the thermostat changes. By the way, the smaller diameter disc was thrown in there to restrict the coolant flow, thereby keeping the water in the jacket longer, thereby raising the temp. You see the difference on the dial because the gauge itself is calibrated for the old stat. With the new stat, I was running g right up between halfway and 3/4. I can't speak for youbut my truck didn't care if it was 0° or 90°. AC on or off. Unloaded or pulling a trailer with 2500lb of firewood on it. It ran exactly at halfway on the gauge NO MATTER WHAT. That's why I freaked out at first.
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I have the exact same problem with my 2005 chevy colorado 3.5 I can't figure it out not even the Loco car shop I have new radiator and coolant, sensor and new thermostat and brand new hoses yet my temperature gauge still runs high just like yours especially when I put on my ac on I know it's been some time since you made this post. But did you fix the problem I would really appreciate if you cold help me .
Welcome to the Nation.
Not sure you will get a response from Eldude64. He last posted here about 4-1/2 years ago.
Did the engine just start running hot all of a sudden or was it after some component had been replaced? You mentioned a car shop, so It is assumed that they scanned the computer to determine the actual temperature in degrees. Do you remember what it was?
It is best to start a new Thread, rather than add to an old one.
Not sure you will get a response from Eldude64. He last posted here about 4-1/2 years ago.
Did the engine just start running hot all of a sudden or was it after some component had been replaced? You mentioned a car shop, so It is assumed that they scanned the computer to determine the actual temperature in degrees. Do you remember what it was?
It is best to start a new Thread, rather than add to an old one.
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They said it seems to be fine as far as temperature degrees but the temperature gauge reading is higher then what it should be and I forgot to mention I have a flex elite electric fan that is 3,000 cfm air flow that's considered better than the cluth fan from what I was told but I'm not sure I didn't install it. It was already in there when I purchased the truck so the mechanic thinks it's because I don't have the original cluth fan so it throws off the temperature reading it just gets to me especially when I'm driving up hill that's why I'm here trying to get the best advice. Oh I've also tried Different clusters and still the same .
Instrument gauges in most vehicles are calibrated so the a 'normal' reading will occur with the needle about in the center position. For the first couple of years these engines were built with thermostats that opened at 180°F If you had an original thermostat your temp gauge would read midrange. Then GM changed the opening temperature for all thermostats to 195°F and discontinued selling the 180°F ones. Now, if the thermostat in your truck has been replaced it would have a 195°F thermostat and your gauge would be reading above the midrange.
The GM Service Manual defines 'overheat' as a temperature above 225°F. It does not specify a 'normal' temperature.
The GM Service Manual defines 'overheat' as a temperature above 225°F. It does not specify a 'normal' temperature.
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