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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2007 canyon i4 2wd. 128k miles.

This weekend after driving on the freeway when I come to a stop at the exit ramp stoplight motor will rev up, almost die, rev up, almost die, over and over again.

My foot is not on the pedal. When I put it in neutral and rev it a little, for fear of it dying it goes away.

Check engine light came on, on the way home so I took it in to the dealership. Far out of warranty.

Dealership is saying it's putting out code p0017 which means too much play in the timing chains? Service rep told me $3800 to replace the timing chain and up to $7800 if there's a problem with the head... GULP :ugh:

Suggestions?

Can anyone recommend a solid 355 mechanic in the Los Angeles area?:salute:
 

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P0017 is common and points to the Cam position sensor. Maybe changing the sensor first will cure the problem.

Search here or Google for P0017 for a better understanding.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It's not making any noise, other than the revving up and attempted stalling. Been doing some further reading about P0017 and ECAS at 08Canyon 's suggestion. Dean71 's post is similar to what I've been experiencing (though mine is automatic) and it sounds like replacing the ECAS fixed it.

Also, I went out and looked at it after seeing some pics here and there appears to be some oil leakage around the ECAS.

Thread here:

http://www.355nation.net/forum/how-performance-maintenance/17342-how-replace-exhaust-camshaft-actuator-solenoid-6.html

my truck finaly had some symptoms which lead me to believe it is the ECAS. I was sitting at a stoplight. Truck was idling fine. the RPMs started to climb to 2000 and then dropped slowly and the engine started to lope. i thought it was going to die a couple of times, but it didnt. I was in the turn lane to get on the highway, so i figured i would limp it over to the side of the road up the on ramp. As soon as it got above 2000 rpms, it was fine and accelerated normaly, but every time i pushed in the clutch and let off the gas, it would take a second, and sputter before smoothing out once the accelerator was pushed again.
I made it home, shut the truck off and then re-started it. it ran much better, but still a little rough. I pulled the ECAS to find the middle screen broken in half with one end stuck in the oil passage. I cleaned it and reinstalled it until the replacement gets here. (I just ordered one this evening and it will be here on Saturday).
I have noticed my gas mileage getting worse over the last year. I have cleaned the TB, MAF sensor and replaced my plugs 3 months ago thinking this would help, but it didnt help much. From my understanding of the ECAS, it can leave the timing retarded when it gets stuck which can cause the rough idle and have a lot to do with the fuel economy. does that sound right?
i forgot about this thread..replaced back in July. the replacement went fine. it completely solved my problem and i gained 2mpg..(just need to keep my foot out of it..lol) Idles much, much smoother :thumbup:
I'm gonna take it in tomorrow to my guy and ask him to replace it. Fingers crossed...
 

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na if it was the chain it will make a hell of a noise im in the same boat right now I did every thing but the chain lol

I have a cuz that's a gm tech he said the can go out at 80k
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well apparently it is the ECAS, the timing chain, and the sprocket. :( getting them replaced. Hopefully that does the trick. thanks for the help.
 

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its not your chain giving you the problem its the camshaft phaser the actual sprocket reluctor gear on the exhaust cam. NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH THE SOLENOID .. if you can get on MITCHELL1 or IDENTIFIX it'll tell you exactly how others have fixed the same exact issue. I have been fighting this CEL P0017 for 3 years now, this year is the worst yet and the truck is due to go under the knife in the next month or so to fix this issue. the solenoid usually does the trick but its bank 1 sensor 2 and sensor 1 = solenoid . sensor 2 is the phaser on the camshaft itself its a 5.8hour job. about 500$ labor alone if not more.
 

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Keep us in the loop.

Normally the chain itself is fine....its the timing chain guide/tensionor thats causes the problem.

But there is no noise.....I would have done sensors first then go from there
 

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Good news if memory serves me right that sprocket can be changes w/o removing the timing chain
 

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Well that saves a ton of money in labor............i assume the offset in labor cost did not make it cost effective to buy said tool and do it yourself
 

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oh im doing it myself at work. labor is like 150$ for me and the part itself is 95$ i just had bills to pay before i can throw the money at the truck so soon. and i was hoping one of our new techs had that tool. no such luck, trying to get firestone to buy it or atleast get me a discount on it.
 

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US Army 19yrs and ......
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ok, good deal!

Maybe consider writing or constructing a "How To" article for the masses?
 

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Yes I'd like to know how things turn out in both cases. If I were doing it, I might make a piece of lumber to fit down the front cover and push that tensioner in slightly. I'd hold the chain up with a bar and jam it in.
 
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