Chevrolet Colorado & GMC Canyon Forum banner

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
328 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Greetings my fellow 355'ers... I'm a very sad 355 man today as I'm unfortunately now hearing alot of the timing chain rattle in the idling on my truck shortly after it got 150k on it recently.(it's definitely coming from the front of the engine, right where the chain is) I have heard and read pretty well about the timing chain issues with the Atlas engines so, I know what to expect I'd say at this point. So far, it has not affected the overall performance of the truck and causing any major driveability issues. I do however get an odd P0017 pending code every now and then, but that's about it amazingly, aside from the annoying chatter in my truck's idling.

Regardless, I know at some point, sooner than later, I am going to have to deal with it before it causes some REAL problems with the engine's timing and even possibly destroys itself. Sadly, my 2.8L engine has been pretty solid up till this point, no valve seat wear or any serious mechanical issues, my problems with the truck have honestly been stupid little electrical stuff...

Soooo... My options so far are this:

1. Save money for a timing chain job, of which might give it another 100k or so of a new lease on life. MAYBE... Which leads to option 2...

2. Save money for a swap with a gently used 2007 2.9L I-4 out of a wrecked Canyon I found here in town. It's got about 98k on it, but it is a better engine IMHO and certainly more proven than the 2.8L for reliability, even past 200k miles.

Anyway, what say ye my fellow nation peeps? Replace the chain or drop a new motor in?

I was hoping to drive the wheels off this ole truck since I got it paid off last year, but it seems that's not going to happen without some intervention (and more money) at this point. Any and all help or useful advice in dealing with this situation is welcome, thanks in advance guys!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,437 Posts
I've had two of these trucks now and both of them had the 2.8L. The first one was an old rural mail truck that I got at 18 and had a ton of rattle in the timing chain but ran fine when I sold it 40k miles later. I still see the truck running around town at times and the new owner still loves it.

The second one I picked up at 140k and has developed a lot of rattle in the past two years but I'm about to cross 217k and she runs like a top. It annoys me with the sound but honestly I'd let it slide until she gives up the ghost and save for a swap.

That's what I'm doing myself and trying to find a 07 3.7 to swap. I wouldn't bother with the 2.9, if you're going to go thru the work just swap to the 5 cylinder it's the same work and a stronger engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Sound deadening will help a lot. Windows up I don't notice anything.

If you're that worried about it, I would keep an eye out for an engine, and if you find a great deal snag it. Otherwise drive the current one into the ground.

My 05 3.5 has 205k and I'm going to drive it until something very major breaks and go from there.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
540 Posts
I wouldn't bother with the 2.9, if you're going to go thru the work just swap to the 5 cylinder it's the same work and a stronger engine.
the 2.9 does pretty good in my CC even without a tune, so I’d guess its got plenty of power for a single cab running stock tires. Plus the hassle of swapping a 3.7 stuff and reprograming etc. to an 06 model truck = more down time …

Substituting 1qt of MMO in the oil helped greatly reducing the rattle and may clear the P0017. No code buys you time! just curious if there was any rattle when you changed the sensor last year?

From the mega hours of researching this issue, I think only 2 people had their engine stop on them. Most felt a decrease in power and mpg’s.. Mine has rattled (and still does) most of its 40k life, but with no code (aside from the dealer's "faulty" sprocket actuator repair). A few thoughts I’ve juggled the past few months if mine gets worse. I’m still up in the air on what to do also …

Used 2.9’s runs ~ $1000+, the one on Car-parts near you is a good price for 98k motor
Spend $3k on timing chain and have a 12/12k warrantee
Spend $4k plus change for a short block … GM 19169323 3yr/36k warrantee
Buy an extended warrantee … not sure if any are available since you’ve got 150k on the clock
Buy a good running donor truck for under 5k and swap motors, then resell it and try to break even. Most of the ones I’ve found are above 100k though …

update 9.29.2016 just thought I'd throw this info out there. I got a reply back from Pace Performance which sells OEM engine, for the 2.9L #19169323 @$4,200 dollars he offers a 3 year/100k mile warrantee provided its installed in the VIN matched vehicle ...
 

·
[MTS] Who is this guy?
Joined
·
3,779 Posts
the 2.9 does pretty good in my CC even without a tune, so I’d guess its got plenty of power for a single cab running stock tires. Plus the hassle of swapping a 3.7 stuff and reprograming etc. to an 06 model truck = more down time …

Substituting 1qt of MMO in the oil helped greatly reducing the rattle and may clear the P0017. No code buys you time! just curious if there was any rattle when you changed the sensor last year?

From the mega hours of researching this issue, I think only 2 people had their engine stop on them. Most felt a decrease in power and mpg’s.. Mine has rattled (and still does) most of its 40k life, but with no code (aside from the dealer's "faulty" sprocket actuator repair). A few thoughts I’ve juggled the past few months if mine gets worse. I’m still up in the air on what to do also …

Used 2.9’s runs ~ $1000+, the one on Car-parts near you is a good price for 98k motor
Spend $3k on timing chain and have a 12/12k warrantee
Spend $4k plus change for a short block … GM 19169323 3yr/36k warrantee
Buy an extended warrantee … not sure if any are available since you’ve got 150k on the clock
Buy a good running donor truck for under 5k and swap motors, then resell it and try to break even. Most of the ones I’ve found are above 100k though …
All it would need is a stock 3.5/3.7 tune flash iirc and if someone is going through the hassle of swapping an engine they can send out their PCM for a tune to someone like supermodulation or limeswap who will then send it back to them tuned. The additional time and effort is negligible at most.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
540 Posts
I must be thinking of an 04/05 swap to an 07, something with fuel delivery to the motor being a hassle?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,437 Posts
I must be thinking of an 04/05 swap to an 07, something with fuel delivery to the motor being a hassle?

You're thinking of the fuel rail change from a return to a returnless style if memory serves. Basically you cannot run the 3.5 rail on a 3.7 if I remember right. The build thread is here in the forum listing everything you'd need to swap
 

·
[MTS] Who is this guy?
Joined
·
3,779 Posts
You're thinking of the fuel rail change from a return to a returnless style if memory serves. Basically you cannot run the 3.5 rail on a 3.7 if I remember right. The build thread is here in the forum listing everything you'd need to swap
For an 04-06 truck you HAVE to run the 3.5 fuel rail because pre-07 uses return style rail whereas 07+ uses returnless.

The thread: http://www.355nation.net/forum/engine-swaps/43667-3-7-engine-swap-complete.html

Basically you are swapping the wiring harness (not confirmed necessary but the 3.7 has extra plugs), fuel rail, and EGR block off plate to the 3.7. You can re-use the injectors in the 3.7 or swap in your 3.5s. Going from 4-5cyl I'd imagine the engine harness would be different.
 

·
Internet Troll
Joined
·
1,252 Posts
I'd drive it until it dies....then swap it out. I'm doing that with mine. I have the P0017 code (Been solid for 2 years) engine is still running ok and my mileage is still decent. The exhaust solenoid didn't help my issue.

Between my '06 Malibu with a check engine light for a failing cat (car has 194,000 + miles and burning a little oil which is causing the failure) and my truck,I don't own a vehicle without a check engine light on.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,437 Posts
For an 04-06 truck you HAVE to run the 3.5 fuel rail because pre-07 uses return style rail whereas 07+ uses returnless.

The thread: http://www.355nation.net/forum/engine-swaps/43667-3-7-engine-swap-complete.html

Basically you are swapping the wiring harness (not confirmed necessary but the 3.7 has extra plugs), fuel rail, and EGR block off plate to the 3.7. You can re-use the injectors in the 3.7 or swap in your 3.5s. Going from 4-5cyl I'd imagine the engine harness would be different.


Thank you for correcting me. I couldn't remember which way it went with the fuel. I know the 3.5 harness works for the swap and as you said the 3.7 harness will work but has extra connectors that won't be used.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,692 Posts
I hope the little 2.8 Atlas in my 355 runs for a million miles...
I would love to have the drive train outta my 700 in Spidey !!! LOL
When are we going to see that swap ?? LOL
 

·
Internet Troll
Joined
·
1,252 Posts
I'd love to get a hold of the diesel power-train (I know so would others) and put it in the 355. But since money is the object....lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
328 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
A little more info and update on my situation gents, here is my PM reply to NewColy:

Ahhh greetings Alfred! I've only noticed it within the past 5K miles I'd say, sometime after my last oil change, of which it's about almost due for another oil change at this point. As far as the rattle goes man, it's not bad when I crank it up in the mornings and it doesn't really get audible until it warms up honestly. Even after it warms up though thankfully it's not an overly overbearing sound, it reminds me alot of a diesel engine at this point. On particularly hot days after driving around a while it gets a bit louder, but again still not any worse than any diesel idling sounds I'd say.

I will say I have noticed a very concerning behavior/sound from the truck when I make right turns and perhaps leads further credence to the failure of the timing chain is actually the chain guides and tensioner failing, as they are on the right side of the truck to my understanding. I have noticed on hard, fast right turns there is a LOUD rattling from the engine for a moment or two until I let off the gas and straighten back out on the road. It only happens when I do this and sometimes it will even cause a "jerking" motion to the truck a bit if I'm doing a slow hard right turn. Again this stops immediately when I let off the gas, push in the clutch or come to a stop.

My other issue is the stupid engine stumbing on hard stops and if I drive over uneven ground/potholes getting oil warnings from the dash, even though I check it regularly and it's still got plenty of oil. I am suspecting the stumbling behavior is probably both the IAC sensor on the throttlebody and the oil level sensor in the engine going south and also need replacement, hence my desire to totally replace the engine at this point with a newer 2007 2.9L I-4 I've found here locally. Right now, time to get that done and the money to do it are my biggest obstacles of which I hope I will have both solved around Christmas time.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
540 Posts
Wonder if the extra load/strain on the engine is amplifying the sound confirming the loose chain? It makes sense to go ahead a swap out with another motor considering the other issues going on. is there anyway to verify the year/mileage of the donor motor thru the engine vin#?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
328 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Ooooookayyyy, so I just had a utter stupid revelation shown to me today gents...

Yea, my truck's over the 5k mile mark towards my next oil change and yea, so I try putting some oil in it.

DUNNNNN dun DUNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN... Without further ado, my truck just needed some oil in it. I put nearly a quart in there and all the chain rattling, the engine stalling on hard breaking, oil light flashing on and off on bumpy road/ground, all of that nonsense is gone. The poor truck just needed some more oil, she's been burning it apparently, nearly a quart! GEEEEZ. *facepalm* Damn you GM and your lousy oil sensor!!! I'm still getting an atrocious rattling on hard right turns however, I'll have to isolate that later... But for the time being, the ole girl is back to being nice and quiet at idle, YAY! I'm using 10W-30 right now btw, I'm gonna change the oil in the coming months back to 5W-30 as that seems to work better in the coldest months (namely for cold engine starts) down here in Louisiana.

Hope this helps some of you guys out there with this issue!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
540 Posts
that's the cheapest fix ever ! :) Glad you were able to figure it out and pass the info along, wouldn't have guessed just 1qt low would cause such a headache
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
328 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Glad it was simple....but why the different oil weights? I use 5-30 all year and I an north of you a bit.
Easy, my truck is black and when the humidity kicks in here during the summer, my poor truck can get heat soak like a mofo. So yea, I like using 10-w30 during the long summers we have here, it's just a bit thicker, better for higher temps and apparently it also helps with the timing chain rattling noise, haha. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
328 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
I assume you're in Arkansas, it's quite a bit higher in land elevation(especially up in the Ozarks, beautiful country up here ^_^) and nowhere near as bad humidity like it is here in the "swamps"/ Mississippi river valley during the summer. I've noticed this too in Tennessee, in the Smokey Mountains as well, it can be like in the 90's but the humidity still remains low enough to where it's not quite as "sweltering", blah.

My truck also always used to run like crap during this time of the year for years, that is until I finally fixed my stupid MAP and MAP wiring problems last year. It's amazing how much a difference in land elevation makes in average humidity and how it can affect our trucks due to it's cold-air intake system.
 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Top