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Actually, I am near Wichita, but lived 6 months in Springfield, MO. Moved back as there were no job prospects after a company moved me and then laid me off 6 months after the move.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Ouch, sorry to hear that Unfettered, yea MO is quite a ways up there from here in ole' Lousyana. :D Beautiful country up there as well, again particularly up in the Ozarks I hear. Yet another place I need to visit before I leave this world one day...

Welp, thanks again to all for your help and advice,(and hijacks haha) I think this thread is done. Potential personal disaster averted, back to snafu status! (situation normal, all f00ked up) :D :D :D

My prayers and thoughts are sent out to my fellow East Coast 355's, ya'll stay safe and I hope your homes and businesses dodge the bullet that is Matthew. See ya'll around... :thumbup:
 

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I have a 2010 Colorado with only 160,000kms brought it to our chevy dealership and confirmed timing chain is loose. quoted 3062.00 to repair. I will be doing it myself but the question I had is do I just replace the chain, chain tensioner and chain guides? or should I replace cam phaser , and all gears and chain? the truck sounds quiet even with timing chain loose. I just don't want to spend money on items I don't need to buy. thank you
 

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The cam sprockets are excellent quality and usually have no appreciable wear and the cam timing actuator is pretty bulletproof too. Normally the timing set is all that you will need. Someone posted a while back that they couldn't even find a new timing actuator & were looking for a used one. You will probably find that the plastic wear guides are badly worn.
 

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Craig there is a youtube video I think it is Degoots garage. "What were they thinking" in regards to the timing chain replacement as well as him doing the replacement. I appears that it is a 20 hour labor job which include doing the counter shaft chain. Something you may want to look up.
Luck
 

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Craig, to change a cam timing set on a 4 or 5 cylinder requires removal of the air resonator, TB, intake manifold, valve cover, fan & water pump, crank damper, timing cover, and oil pan. Some trucks also require removing some steering components to drop the oil pan though my 2wd did not. While it isn't fun work the only difficult part is finding the intake manifold bolts and removing and reinstalling the crank damper. You need lots of 1/4" wobble extensions for doing the intake and some version of a "Compact damper puller" to remove the crank damper without removing the radiator or A/C condenser. I couldn't find a correct puller anywhere locally but did find a great deal on an OTC Compact Damper Puller at Zoro Tool online. You also need something to reinstall the crank damper, I use a piece of metric 10.9 all-thread with heavy 10.9 hex nut, and a very heavy washer which were all purchased from McMaster-Carr online. It works perfectly.
Your 160,000km is equal to 100,000 miles so in addition to a timing set you should also consider changing the upstream 02 sensor, MAP sensor, water pump, serpentine belt, and sparkplugs too. If I had to do this on my 3.5 I would guess it to take me 5-6 hours.
Good Luck
 

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I brought it to our chevy dealership and confirmed timing chain is loose. the truck sounds quiet even with timing chain loose. I just don't want to spend money on items I don't need to buy. thank you
can it be loose and quiet at the same time? ... were there any codes? what circumstances to think a loose chain?
 

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can it be loose and quiet at the same time? ... were there any codes? what circumstances to think a loose chain?
P0017 was the code. And not a tick or a slap of timing chain sound. P0017 goes away and come back on all the time

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A lot of these engines have chain rattle only on start-up and others have gone many miles with noisy timing chains without setting any codes. Assuming you engine has good oil pressure, the camshaft actuator solenoid is good, and the timing chain is quiet, then the problem (P0017) is probably the crank position sensor, exhaust cam position sensor, or the PCM. Very low oil pressure also could create problems with either the timing chain hydraulic tensioner or the exhaust cam timing actuator. You might want to experiment with higher viscosity oil like straight 30W or 15W-40 to see if it still codes.
Oil pressure is important because it takes the slack out of the timing chain and it provides the hydraulic pressure to advance the exhaust cam.
P0017 means that the PCM thinks that the relationship of the exhaust cam position doesn't match with the position of the crankshaft.
If the crankshaft position sensor is disturbed or replaced then a crankshaft position relearn procedure (at dealer) is required.
 

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Ok so i have a 2005 z78 with the 2.8l. this is the first one that i have owned and it just feels really bogged down. It did have the timing rattle when i first bought it at 150,000 miles it now has 218,000 miles and less power than when i purchased so i gave in and spent the $1500 doing the chains with no prevail on increasing power or mileage. I have raised this concern with the chevy dealer that did the work and get the run around that it because i have 218,000 mile and i have 18" rims with a 265 tire??? Now take it easy on me i am a Ford technician so I have already checked compression and found all cylinders within 10 pounds of a new truck so mileage shouldnt be the factor. how do all the other 2.8l perform???? to give aspect to what i am talking about when i go down the highway every hill i come to the truck has to kick itself into passing gear to try and maintain my speed at 70 and most of the time it still slows down and cant hold it?? when i hard take off it will down shift hard and rpms jump to around 5k but the truck barely moves like a turtle i had a nissan sentra with a 1.4L that had more power. What am i missing??
 

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Oversized wheels/tires is basically like changing rear end gearing. If this started when you changed to taller tires, there's your problem. I have no idea why everyone here is so quick to diagnose their noises and performance issues on timing chain. What's the life expectancy of a timing chain? The life of the motor. Now, that may be the answer because most folks would just get rid of the vehicle if the timing chain needed to be replaced. There's probably a hundred posts here where someone thought that they needed a timing chain, but realized it was actually an idler pulley or water pump making noise. Also, there are at leas a hundred posts here where an upgraded oil filter cured the noise at start up. Look for an oil filter that has a anti drain valve. The timing chain tensioner uses oil pressure to create tension and take the slack out of the chain. Finally, change your oil regularly. Use the recommended viscosity. Thicker oil will not cure the problem! Thicker oil will not flow as well, especially on start up when it's cold and thick.
Timing chains stretch. That's why there's a tensioner. If you read the suggested steps to take for a P017 code, it mentions that the most common cause is wiring issues. Next, is sensors. Then the timing chain. Why does everyone jump immediately to timing chain?
 

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Oversized wheels/tires is basically like changing rear end gearing. If this started when you changed to taller tires, there's your problem. I have no idea why everyone here is so quick to diagnose their noises and performance issues on timing chain. What's the life expectancy of a timing chain? The life of the motor. Now, that may be the answer because most folks would just get rid of the vehicle if the timing chain needed to be replaced. There's probably a hundred posts here where someone thought that they needed a timing chain, but realized it was actually an idler pulley or water pump making noise. Also, there are at leas a hundred posts here where an upgraded oil filter cured the noise at start up. Look for an oil filter that has a anti drain valve. The timing chain tensioner uses oil pressure to create tension and take the slack out of the chain. Finally, change your oil regularly. Use the recommended viscosity. Thicker oil will not cure the problem! Thicker oil will not flow as well, especially on start up when it's cold and thick.
Timing chains stretch. That's why there's a tensioner. If you read the suggested steps to take for a P017 code, it mentions that the most common cause is wiring issues. Next, is sensors. Then the timing chain. Why does everyone jump immediately to timing chain?
Well I must not have been clear I did do the filter 1st then the solenoid, and checked wiring my chain was way stretched and guides were practically non existent. With the new chains the rattle is gone. And the lack of power was right from the start at day one that I bought the truck I did notice more difference putting the new wheels and tires on but it did have the same drivablility concerns prior to that, I broke down and did the chains hoping that maybe I jumped time a little and that was the cause of the lack of power that’s why I came to this forum hoping to get insight on exactly how much power these have since it is my first one. My son has a canyon but with the 3.5l and it will run circles around my 2.8l????
 
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