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Discussion Starter #1
This is my first thread as I am new to this site.

I have a problem cranking up torsion bar on the left side.
I ordered a kit from rough country 2.25 inch lift for my GMC Canyon 4x4 Crew cab 3.7.
I put 1.5 shackle with no problem.
Put shock sleeve on the front with no problem.
On the right side of the truck i was able to crank up the torsion bar using spacer and it went up 3 inch but had to turn it down to two inch.
Then i moved on to the left side, I could only crank it up to one inch and 1/2 and couldn't go any higher-why is that?
so i left it there and drove it for few, it dropped half inch. So i had to crank it back up but couldn't go any higher so i left it like that then the next day same issue it dropped half inch.

What could be the problem. is the bolt or nut stripped? do i need to pb blaster somewhere to turn it easily?
 

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That torsion bar may just be sagged out to the point that it no longer has adjustment.

However, it will lift until you run out of threads on the adjusting bolt. If the bolt turns then I can't begin to provide suggestions. If the bolt stops turning, then you are maxed out.

Yes, it's common for the driver side to sag more than the passenger side. Especially when most of your driving is without a passenger.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey Canyon08,

Thanks for replying

I do understand about the sag part but I do not understand why will the height of the truck drop half inch after driving around few times then re-adjust it again then it drop again all because of half inch.

I checked the treads on the bolt to see if it has an stop to it. The threads is all the way from one end to the other and i can't crank it up any more.

Why can right side crank up ALOT more than the left? left torsion bar no good? Might as well buy new torsion bar?

This really sucks! i was looking forward to get it alignment but this job is not completed and i don't want to take it to the shop now until this is fixed
 

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I had a similar problem with my '10 Colorado Z85 4x4. The left key was maxed out sooner than the right key was. My solution....I ordered new reindexed keys from Suspension MAXX. Problem solved.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I went to look at my truck again. Found the problem but do not know the solution to this.
The lift side was turned a lot but didn't raise much while the right side didn't turn much but raise few inches.

Now what is the problem? Need new torsion bar for the left? or is the front arm stuck?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have attached two photo, The left side is the one with longer bolt in the picture that has been turned so many times but only raise an inch.

The other picture is the right side with short bolt that has been turned few time and raise to two inch.

Do i still need to get a new key?
 

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I vote new keys, I got mine from zone.
 

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I vote new TBs. If the left T-Bar is sagged in the standing position, it'll also perform different under load (twisted by the suspension going up and down). Or you could uncrank the right side to match the left and be happy.
 

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Ya I would get new bars, if it's that far gone the truck should ride and handle better with new bars.
 

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Hey Canyon08,

Thanks for replying

I do understand about the sag part but I do not understand why will the height of the truck drop half inch after driving around few times then re-adjust it again then it drop again all because of half inch. Not that you adjusted it back to make up for the 1/2" that sagged again.

I checked the treads on the bolt to see if it has an stop to it. The threads is all the way from one end to the other and i can't crank it up any more.

Why can right side crank up ALOT more than the left? left torsion bar no good? Might as well buy new torsion bar?

New keys won't necessarilly help. The spacers do the same thing as a key. I reread the OP and remnded myself you installed spacers, not keys anyway. What I may suggest is to retrace your steps and check the work. I wonder if the spacer is causing an issue such as installed incorrectly, or if the spacers is slipping from the necessary rest position, resulting in a drop. I'm not familiar with where the spacers go so I can't say if either of my suggestions are even possible causes.

This really sucks! i was looking forward to get it alignment but this job is not completed and i don't want to take it to the shop now until this is fixed
I was confused in your first post. You said it sagged and you went to adjust it but you couldn't. I interpreted that as there was no adjustment available.

It WILL settle after adjusting. Settling 1/2" sounds like a lot, but if the spring is soft I suppose I can accept it.

I think I mentioned in my first response that is is normal for the driver side to sag more than the passenger side. So I won't answer that one again.

But yes, new torsion bars could be a good idea in your case. It's been done a few times. It's too late now, but there have been a couple threads where people replace bars instead of keys because they were sagged plenty.

Good decision to hold off on the alignment until you can get the desired ride height.

Can you measure from the center of the hub to the bottom of the fender and tell us what that measurement is? The measurement on the driver side is sufficient.
 

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time to get new bars and while your at it, get some V8 bars. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
My truck still wouldn't lift up. The left side is the main issue. I've changed Left-Torsion bar,
Torsion Keys, and new Rancho shocks. Same result.

I am thinking it is something else that is preventing it from raising.

I don't want to throw my towel and give up. :ugh:
 

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Some thing has to be limiting the travel.
 

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Would it be possible for you to take some pictures you you front end and maybe someone on here will be smart enough to know if something doesn't look right. I may not be that guy, but it may help us diagnose things.
 

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First thing I suggest...

Take a tape measure from the center of the wheel hub to the top of the front fender openings (wheelwell) and tell us what it is for both sides, In inches.

Then, measure the center of the wheel hub to the top of the fender openings for the rear, in inches.

Also measure all 4 wheels from ground to top of fender opening while parked on a flat surface (this is not the right way to measure, but may help us ID your problem. It's inaccurate).

Turn your wheel to either side and snap a pic of both drivers and passengers side suspensions behind the wheel opening from the cab and engine sides (4 pics).
 

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Discussion Starter #20
First thing I suggest...

Take a tape measure from the center of the wheel hub to the top of the front fender openings (wheelwell) and tell us what it is for both sides, In inches.

Then, measure the center of the wheel hub to the top of the fender openings for the rear, in inches.

Also measure all 4 wheels from ground to top of fender opening while parked on a flat surface (this is not the right way to measure, but may help us ID your problem. It's inaccurate).

Turn your wheel to either side and snap a pic of both drivers and passengers side suspensions behind the wheel opening from the cab and engine sides (4 pics).
Alright, i'll see about doing that during my lunch break today. Stay tune..
 
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