[10Canyon53]

Decided to use my 2010 V8 Canyon Z71 as the base for an overland vehicle build. This will be a long-term, multi-year project. The first mod was a Super Skidz skid plate courtesy of WV NATIVE .

Next was a snorkel (again, thanks to WV NATIVE for the link) since I will be honing my off-roading skills on the trails in Central Florida and some of the mud holes can have rather deep standing water, especially in the summer.

I have an off-road front bumper kit from Move Bumpers on order (due to arrive next week) and that will allow me to mount this, which I took advantage of a 20% off deal to snag a couple of weeks ago:

Next in the plans will be the MAXXCam JR and MAXXShackle kits from Suspension MAXX for a 3" front and 2.5" rear lift to level the truck. With some judicious trimming, this should allow me to run 33" BFG KM3 Mud-Terrain's. Probably will install some Rancho shocks at that time since the truck is due for new shocks. I am also about to start searching for that legendary unicorn, the Hummer H3 iron front differential. This will allow me to move forward with plans for ARB air lockers in front and rear. For $80 I snagged a ladder rack off Craigslist that was installed on an F150. With some cutting and welding I can shorten and modify it to fit the Canyon. This will allow mounting a rooftop tent. Storage solutions and many other mods are in the plans, I will post updates here for any interested.

 

[WV NATIVE]

I am also about to start searching for that legendary unicorn, the Hummer H3 iron front differential.

It took me about 6 months of hunting to find one. Good luck sir.

 

[10Canyon53]

I would greatly appreciate any tips you could give me for locating one. I tried the search function on the LKQ website but it was worthless. Any idea what RPO codes to look for on an H3?

 

[WV NATIVE]

I would greatly appreciate any tips you could give me for locating one. I tried the search function on the LKQ website but it was worthless. Any idea what RPO codes to look for on an H3?

Not sure. I called LKQ locations and had people simply provide pictures so I could see for sure if it was a cast iron from differential.

Not sure if this helps.....

Cast iron front differential

I have a new project coming up. I picked up a 2009 Hummer H3 front diff with an e locker. I have been looking for a while, but the front cast iron AAM 760 aka 7.6ifs are hard to find. I looked through LKQ and found one. It has the 4.56 gear set, but I am going to use my stock 4.10 set anyway. I...

www.355nation.net

 

[10Canyon53]

That does help, thanks!

 

[Ktool762]

Following! I too have this in mind. I have a 2010 5.3 Z71 with a 4” Rancho lift. Can you link to the skid plate and snorkel? Also, I have the move bumpers sitting in my cart. I am curious to see how the install goes. I have no welding experience myself but have some friends that do. Good luck on your build bruh!

 

[10Canyon53]

The skid plates used to be made by @Supermodulation on this forum, but I have no idea if he still makes them. WV NATIVE had a spare that he sent me. Here is the link for the snorkel on ebay:
Vehicle Snorkel Kit For Isuzu D-Max Pickup 08-11 Holden Rodeo RA 07-08 3.0L 4JJ1
It's for the Isuzu D-Max but is a perfect fit for our 355's. It ships from Malaysia but shipping was fast - less than a week from Malaysia to Florida. I was nervous cutting holes in a perfectly good fender, but I followed the template that was shipped with it and everything lined up perfectly. You will need a 4" diameter hole saw. You will have to remove the front tire and fender inner liner to gain access, but that was pretty simple. Trimming the fender flare was entertaining.....I recommend trimming a little at a time to avoid trimming too much off. The fab shop I requested a quote from to weld together the bumper kit for me has not responded, so I am leaning towards picking up this welder from Harbor Freight Easy-Flux 125 Amp Welder and learning to weld. I have years of experience brazing with an oxy-acetelyne setup. It appears that using one of these welders would be easier than brazing, so I may give it a whirl.

 

[WV NATIVE]

I am leaning towards picking up this welder from Harbor Freight Easy-Flux 125 Amp Welder and learning to weld.

I don't want to overstep my bounds but I'd recommend a 220 volt machine. If you're going to buy one machine you will not regret the added amps.

I think those Move Bumpers that are rated for a winch have 1/4" plate for the winch mount. I'm sure you could burn in 1/4" steel with a 110 volt Mig but it would be at the top end of it's abilities for sure.

 

[10Canyon53]

At the moment I do not have a way to power a 220V welder. I have watched a number of reviews on this machine and several of the reviewers have demonstrated that even though it is not quite rated for 1/4" it seems to be capable of it.

 

[DigEm]

Following...

 

[10Canyon53]

The MOVE bumper kit came in Monday. I looked at all the pieces and said "Nope! I am not putting this together as a learn to weld project." Dropped the truck off at a fab shop today, will pick it up Friday. Fab shop contacted me late this afternoon with a minor bump in the road. Good news: the bumper is tacked together. Bad news: the Apex winch does fit inside the bumper, but there is not enough room for the free spool lever to rotate. I will either have to leave it engaged or cut the lever down in size. I will figure that out when I mount the winch. Cutting down the lever may be the answer since the lever does turn very easily.....shouldn't need much leverage at all. Or, if I can remove the lever, rotate it 180 degrees and reattach it, possibly that will allow it to rotate..... Judging by the thickness of the steel of the bumper kit, it will be an extremely heavy duty bumper/brush guard. Here is how it was shipped, came in UPS. I will post more pics when I have them:

 

[WV NATIVE]

I will either have to leave it engaged or cut the lever down in size.

I'd definitely cut down the lever if that were the two options I had.

 

[DigEm]

I think I would have the fab shop modify the bumper for the lever to fit. Not going to do much cutting down of that small lever on the APEX. Wondering why the lever won't fit, but the control box does? Sounds like it needs more research to me. Just my two cents though.

 

[WV NATIVE]

I think I would have the fab shop modify the bumper for the lever to fit. Not going to do much cutting down of that small lever on the APEX. Wondering why the lever won't fit, but the control box does? Sounds like it needs more research to me. Just my two cents though.

A lot of truth here.

 

[10Canyon53]

I will find out hopefully this afternoon, they are doing the final welding now. I already knew the Apex was going to be a tight fit. I can do any needed trimming of the lever myself, I have a Dremmel. It could be a case of the curvature of the bumper brings it into the swing arc of the lever.

 

[WV NATIVE]

I already knew the Apex was going to be a tight fit.

If it's too tight for the clutch lever to swing will your hand fit in enough to turn it?

 

[10Canyon53]

If you look at the pic above of the bumper center piece on my porch you can see a nice large opening to the right of the MOVE emblem. That is about where I expected the lever to be. It may be a case of it almost lines up, but not quite. If that is the case I may be able to have them cut the hole a little larger with a plasma cutter. I will have to look at it when I pick it up.

 

[WV NATIVE]

Grab a picture when you pick it up. Curious how it looks in the raw.

I started a winch project this week myself.😉 I scrounged a few pieces of 1/4” plate to build a frame mount.

 

[10Canyon53]

Will do

 

[10Canyon53]

The fab shop just sent me this pic of the bumper build in progress: