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Discussion Starter · #141 ·

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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
The other issue you run into with spring over on these trucks is that you have to set up some kind of traction bar system. The stock springs are too soft to stop the spring wrap. You also may have to cut and modify the fuel tank crossmember as the driveshaft will hit it.
Yep, things like this are why I wanted input. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #143 ·

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Something like this:

These are nice. I haven't ever had an issue, but, I don't see a lot of stumps or rocks. I mainly see what we saw on Saturday.
 

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That would definitely be an easier solution, thanks!
Our shock mounts different than the H3 so you’ll need to get two drivers sides and rotate one to accommodate our style of shock mount.

Both the rear shocks on the H3 go forward while we have one rearward and one forward on the 355. You’ll understand when you see the high clearance design.
 

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What are your thoughts on their rock sliders? Think they would fit?
Not sure if they’d fit. Depends on several factors.

I know that price is too high. You could weld up your own set for 1/4 of that price. I’m hoping to build myself a new set soon and I’ll come out much cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #147 ·
Not sure if they’d fit. Depends on several factors.

I know that price is too high. You could weld up your own set for 1/4 of that price. I’m hoping to build myself a new set soon and I’ll come out much cheaper.
My fabricating skills are not up to a rock slider DIY project....yet. But I was considering seeing what the fab shop that put together my front bumper would charge to custom fabricate a set. I will also likely be working with them to fabricate a custom rear bumper with swing out arms for a spare tire carrier and jerry can mounts. I am also kicking around the idea of mounting a second winch in the space that will be vacated by my current spare tire. That way I will be able to winch forward or backwards as needed.
 

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My fabricating skills are not up to a rock slider DIY project....yet. But I was considering seeing what the fab shop that put together my front bumper would charge to custom fabricate a set. I will also likely be working with them to fabricate a custom rear bumper with swing out arms for a spare tire carrier and jerry can mounts. I am also kicking around the idea of mounting a second winch in the space that will be vacated by my current spare tire. That way I will be able to winch forward or backwards as needed.
That’s going to be one heavy SOB. 😳 Weight is the enemy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
Our shock mounts different than the H3 so you’ll need to get two drivers sides and rotate one to accommodate our style of shock mount.

Both the rear shocks on the H3 go forward while we have one rearward and one forward on the 355. You’ll understand when you see the high clearance design.
After looking at it for a minute I see what you mean. Rotate it 180 degrees and it should be in the right position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
Or maybe I should mount the spare tire on the hood like a Land-rover. :LOL:
 

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Discussion Starter · #154 ·
I run my spare in the stock location and haul fuel in the bed. Keeps the center on gravity in a better place and helps distribute the weight of all my fuel.
I am pretty sure the size tires I plan to run will not fit in the stock location and I do plan to carry extra fuel in a transfer tank in the bed. The jerry cans will actually be for water, not fuel.
 
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Discussion Starter · #155 ·
Now that we are mentioning tires....I am debating between 33's and 35's. I would like the extra ground clearance of the 35's but am not sure about the extra stress the 35's would place on the drive line components. Since the intended use of this vehicle will be transportation into and out of the backcountry, not an off-road toy, reliability is of primary importance. Thoughts?
 

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If you spend the dollars on a subframe lift this becomes a minimal Issue because there is no "Crank" in the front suspension. If you go with the cheaper way to lift, you get the issues I have. Some bumpsteer, stiff up front, sagging rear springs(caused by shackles, the reason I went to Skyjacker springs), Bad angles on the front driveline and front control arms and Tie rods, and less upward travel of the front suspension. Got a taste of that this weekend with my broken parts up front at Tate's Hell. It was not a big hole, just deep enough to make my tire drop in and push backwards on the suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #157 ·
If you spend the dollars on a subframe lift this becomes a minimal Issue because there is no "Crank" in the front suspension. If you go with the cheaper way to lift, you get the issues I have. Some bumpsteer, stiff up front, sagging rear springs(caused by shackles, the reason I went to Skyjacker springs), Bad angles on the front driveline and front control arms and Tie rods, and less upward travel of the front suspension. Got a taste of that this weekend with my broken parts up front at Tate's Hell. It was not a big hole, just deep enough to make my tire drop in and push backwards on the suspension.
Thoughts on this kit? CC409KS – 4 in. Suspension Lift System with Rear Leaf Springs

I have heard enough about Rough Country I don't think I want to go there.
As WV NATIVE pointed out awhile back the Tuff Country kit does not appear to address the difference in sensor position on the newer first gens.
Not sure what other options are out there for a first gen other than a body lift.
 

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Thoughts on this kit? CC409KS – 4 in. Suspension Lift System with Rear Leaf Springs

I have heard enough about Rough Country I don't think I want to go there.
As WV NATIVE pointed out awhile back the Tuff Country kit does not appear to address the difference in sensor position on the newer first gens.
Not sure what other options are out there for a first gen other than a body lift.
That is an excellent kit. That is what is in Bryan's Red truck except he elected to go add-a-leaf instead of the spring packs. He is then cranked another inch and has one inch shackles out back. so basically he has 5 inches. on 33's. He could squeeze 35's with some cutting.
 

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Now that we are mentioning tires....I am debating between 33's and 35's. I would like the extra ground clearance of the 35's but am not sure about the extra stress the 35's would place on the drive line components. Since the intended use of this vehicle will be transportation into and out of the backcountry, not an off-road toy, reliability is of primary importance. Thoughts?
33s all day long. Easier on our cheesy components and a spare will fit in the stock location.
 

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Discussion Starter · #160 ·
33s all day long. Easier on our cheesy components and a spare will fit in the stock location.
That's the direction I have been leaning lately. While I want a rig that is capable of taking me anywhere I want to go, I am not planning to wheel it hard. I have been somewhat re-evaluating where I want to go. While I do intend to take it out West eventually, places like Moab and the Rubicon Trail are not on my list of desired destinations. My wife and I will be more interested in scenery and peace and quiet rather than gnarly obstacles. I want the truck to be capable in many types of terrain but I am not looking to build a rock crawler. I just want it to be able to get me out away from the crowds.
Very high on the list of importance, however, will be setting up the truck for convenience. The camping trip last weekend was our first in a very long time and our first ever experience dry camping. I told my wife several times over the weekend "We're doing it wrong!" :ROFLMAO: We are not getting any younger and our longest trips will happen after we retire, so if campsite setup and tear-down are not quick and easy we are not likely to go at all. My goal is for setup to take no longer than 15 minutes, especially since we will probably most often camp at a different spot every night. This is going to require most of the gear to be permanently mounted on the truck and will add much of the additional weight. I also have an ulterior motive for the custom rear bumper with swing outs: I plan to build a camp kitchen at the back of the truck with a fold down camp stove and prep surface on the swing outs. If I can still mount the spare in the factory location, that frees up space on the swing outs and I may be able to use aluminum instead of steel to save weight.
 
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