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Discussion Starter #1
Hello 355 Fans,

I've been working for the last year or so on my 2010 Colorado Overland/Mild Trail/Daily Driver Project and was able to finally get it back on the road last Friday night!:th_woot:

Mods:

Front HP Dana 44 re-tubed to passenger drop. ARB/4:88s
Rear SF 14 bolt with ARB (Both axles narrowed to 65" WMS)
3.8 Atlas T-case
12" ORI Struts
Metal Cloak JK radius arms
Xterra steering box (Soon to be ram assist)
K5 Blazer rear springs
37" Nittos on 17" Raceline beadlocks

I put a couple hundred miles on it over the weekend and it drives really nice.

This is where I need some help..

When I gutted the IFS and T-case I just unplugged the electrical connectors and let them hang. Now I need to figure out what I need to do to make the computer happy when it's in 4 low.

I ordered the Atlas with a switch kit so that I can get a contact closure when it shifts into low range, and I believe that the computer can be reprogrammed to accept the 3.8 gearing, but it would sure be nice to hear from someone who has done it, or has better electrical knowledge about how the electronic shift system works.

I've searched the net for any wiring info and didn't have much luck.

When I built the axles I went through a pretty good effort to make sure that I was able to have ABS sensors on all 4 wheels in hopes of preserving the ABS/Stabilitrac system. I can live without it, but I'd like to try to make it work since I have all of the components necessary.

I'm thinking that there should be a way to disconnect the electronic shift system and wire a signal through the T-case switch to let the ECM know when it's in 4 low.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Jim
 

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I considered rigging up a 4 low switch but I ended up reading my speed from the transmission output shaft rather than the transfer case output housing.

I ended up jumping a wire on the OEM transfer case wiring harness to make my truck think the transfer case is in neutral all the time. I had to do that to eliminate the "SERV 4wd" DIC warning message that popped up every time I started the truck. My harness is now taped up and zipped tied out of the way.

I would think that the same theory I used for neutral could be applied to splice/jump into the transfer case harness with your Atlas switch to let it show 4 low. I honestly can't remember if I grounded the transfer case harness wire or supplied positive to show neutral.

The way I have mine rigged up causes my speedometer to be off while in 4 low but my transmission shifts perfect in low range.

I'll pull up the schematics for the transfer case harness tomorrow and give them a look for you.

There are some great electrical guys on here that are always eager to help. I'm sure they'll chime in soon as well.

https://www.autozone.com/repairguid...Train-2004/Transfer-Case/_/P-0996b43f80cb399d

The above link may help?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I wanna hear more about the steering box...:)
Box is a 2002 Nissan Xterra. It has 4 mounting tabs that I sleeved through the frame, then added a cross-member between the frame rails to distribute the steering forces and add rigidity. Of course this was after I plated the frame.

I plumbed it to the stock pump and it works just fine. The stock Xterra pitman arm is a little short for my liking so I plan to go to a longer Toyota arm when I pull it to have the ram assist porting done. The extra length should speed up the steering just enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I considered rigging up a 4 low switch but I ended up reading my speed from the transmission output shaft rather than the transfer case output housing.

I ended up jumping a wire on the OEM transfer case wiring harness to make my truck think the transfer case is in neutral all the time. I had to do that to eliminate the "SERV 4wd" DIC warning message that popped up every time I started the truck. My harness is now taped up and zipped tied out of the way.

I would think that the same theory I used for neutral could be applied to splice/jump into the transfer case harness with your Atlas switch to let it show 4 low. I honestly can't remember if I grounded the transfer case harness wire or supplied positive to show neutral.

The way I have mine rigged up causes my speedometer to be off while in 4 low but my transmission shifts perfect in low range.

I'll pull up the schematics for the transfer case harness tomorrow and give them a look for you.

There are some great electrical guys on here that are always eager to help. I'm sure they'll chime in soon as well.

https://www.autozone.com/repairguid...Train-2004/Transfer-Case/_/P-0996b43f80cb399d

The above link may help?
Thanks for the info!

I also have a VSS installed in front of the T-case, so I could do exactly what you did.

For some reason I was under the impression that the ECM needed to be programmed for the new low range gearing, and that it needed an input to know when the t case was shifted into low range. I know in the jeep word that the ECM has to know exactly what the low range ratio is or it will go into limp home mode.

Currently I have the "Service 4wd" DIC as well as "Stabilitrac Fault", "ABS fault" and the "low tire" message since I took out the TPS sensors. It would sure be nice to get rid of as many of these as possible..

I figured that I'd start with the 4WD wiring and move on to the ABS fun after that.

Thanks again, I need all the help I can get!
 

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Thanks for the info!

I also have a VSS installed in front of the T-case, so I could do exactly what you did.

For some reason I was under the impression that the ECM needed to be programmed for the new low range gearing, and that it needed an input to know when the t case was shifted into low range. I know in the jeep word that the ECM has to know exactly what the low range ratio is or it will go into limp home mode.

Currently I have the "Service 4wd" DIC as well as "Stabilitrac Fault", "ABS fault" and the "low tire" message since I took out the TPS sensors. It would sure be nice to get rid of as many of these as possible..

I figured that I'd start with the 4WD wiring and move on to the ABS fun after that.

Thanks again, I need all the help I can get!
Like I said the only "issue" I have is my speedometer isn't accurate in low range. I'll be crawling and the speedometer shows like 20 mph+. I suspect my odometer is also negatively effected by showing more mileage but I've yet to confirm that.

I had some of those warning lights but tricking the truck into showing neutral all the time eliminated them. A drop of black paint fixed the red neutral light on the dash. :naughty:

The "low tire" message is easily removed by installing a 2005 (pre TPMS)cluster. I removed my TPMS by switching out clusters and couldn't be happier. Be sure to get a cluster with lower mileage than you currently have to prevent the wrong mileage being displayed. Buying an ebay cluster is cheaper than replacing a TPMS sensor so it's a no brainer.
@captainrab makes some pretty slick cluster mods as well. His stuff looks awesome. Toughest part is picking your color scheme.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Like I said the only "issue" I have is my speedometer isn't accurate in low range. I'll be crawling and the speedometer shows like 20 mph+. I suspect my odometer is also negatively effected by showing more mileage but I've yet to confirm that.

I had some of those warning lights but tricking the truck into showing neutral all the time eliminated them. A drop of black paint fixed the red neutral light on the dash. :naughty:

The "low tire" message is easily removed by installing a 2005 (pre TPMS)cluster. I removed my TPMS by switching out clusters and couldn't be happier. Be sure to get a cluster with lower mileage than you currently have to prevent the wrong mileage being displayed. Buying an ebay cluster is cheaper than replacing a TPMS sensor so it's a no brainer.

@captainrab makes some pretty slick cluster mods as well. His stuff looks awesome. Toughest part is picking your color scheme.


I've been a little side tracked with building a rear bumper and haven't had time to spend on the wiring issue. From the schematics it looks like I should be able to ground the wire going to the neutral switch (Circled in the photo below) at the T case to get the same results you did. Does that look right to you?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just received a tracking notice that my steering box was dropped off at my door from West Texas Off Road!:th_woot:

Now I've got to hurry up and finish my rear bumper so I can get the box and ram installed.

It's pretty crazy that I'll be in the bumper project over $500 in steel and parts by the time I get the tire carrier finished up. No wonder they are getting $2k for a production Tacoma bumper!

I've probably got 20 hours worth of design/fab time in it so far and still need another full day at least.

Here's a couple of photos of the rough product.
 

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Your Truck is perfect. I'm about to start a V8 and Solid axle swap on my 06 Extended cab with a Dana 44 front and FF 14 bolt rear. I would like to go radius arms in the front. It looks like you have yours mounted to a cross member? Any chance you could throw up some photos of you arm setup on the axle and frame?
 

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Sorry, It's been a while since I checked in.

I've attached a couple of photos of the front links and crossmember. I had to make the center removable to get the transmission out.

Also finished up the bed cover/drawer assembly as well as the front bumper and rock sliders.

This summer we ran a few local trails (Deer Valley, Corral Hollow and Strawberry Pass), everything worked well and I'm looking forward to doing some longer trips next year . Currently working on mounting an auxiliary fuel tank so I can get closer to a 300mi range. Averages about 10MPG around town and closer to 12 on the highway.

I like driving it so much It's pretty much turned into my daily driver.

Let me know if you need any other pic's.


Belly1.jpg
Belly 2.jpg
IMG_0775.jpg
IMG_1115.jpg
 

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This is one of the best examples I’ve seen of a built Colorado. Your work is clean!

I really like how you kept most of the stock look. Simply excellent!
 
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This is one of the best examples I’ve seen of a built Colorado. Your work is clean!
I really like how you kept most of the stock look. Simply excellent!
Thanks! It's always nice to hear when someone appreciates your hard work.

Here's a photo of the finished back bumper and one trying to determine how much more the wheel openings needed to be clearanced. Ended up with and RTI score of 780 with 32 PSI in the tires. That got a lot of attention from the Jeep guys..
Bumper.jpg
Frame Twister.jpg
 

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Thanks! It's always nice to hear when someone appreciates your hard work.
I’m very impressed. I know what effort it takes to pull off a build like yours.

The only thing I don’t like is that you’re too far away from WV to help me do my SAS. I’d love to have you in my garage to guide me through a swap.

Please post as many pictures as you can from all angles. I enjoy soaking in the details of a cool truck. I’d like to see a few interior pictures to see how your shifters ended up mounting.

Thanks.
 

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Thanks! It's always nice to hear when someone appreciates your hard work.

Here's a photo of the finished back bumper and one trying to determine how much more the wheel openings needed to be clearanced. Ended up with and RTI score of 780 with 32 PSI in the tires. That got a lot of attention from the Jeep guys..
View attachment 341848 View attachment 341849
Simply incredible vision and work ! While not my style I marvel at your ingenuity .
Fabulous ! (y)
 

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I’m very impressed. I know what effort it takes to pull off a build like yours.

The only thing I don’t like is that you’re too far away from WV to help me do my SAS. I’d love to have you in my garage to guide me through a swap.

Please post as many pictures as you can from all angles. I enjoy soaking in the details of a cool truck. I’d like to see a few interior pictures to see how your shifters ended up mounting.

Thanks.
I didn't take a ton of pics during the build but I'm happy to post pictures of anything you need. I used the atlas cable shifters to get them where I needed them to be. They went together without too
much difficulty. The 3 switches on the console are for the ARB compressor and lockers.
IMG_0355.jpg

Here's a few of the shock towers and engine cross tube.
IMG_0225.jpg
IMG_0234.jpg
IMG_0310.jpg
 

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Do you have any axle wrap issues on the rear?
 

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Nice build. Idk if it helps but when I was doing the wiring On mine, I had to get all the right modules (tccm, bcm, etc) and have them powered up and reading the CANbus properly.

Unfortunately I’m thousands of miles away from my truck to send pictures
 
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