The shackles are the most difficult part because it's a challenge to raise the body and loser the chassis and get the bolts to align. If you have a lot of rust, the difficult level increases.
Front though, should not be a problem.
However,that is only have the battle. I you have a 4x4 you should look into lowering the differential. That will maintain the levelness of your front axles. That in turn reduces the chance of your CV boots tearing.
And depending on how far you end up lifting (there are 'safe levels'), flipping the ball joint mount position can help, or even further, adding a spacer between the mount and the UCA. It's all relatively straight forward. Depending on your willingness and your mechanical ability and the tools you have available.
I guess, just be advised that just installing shackles and new keys may only be part of the necessary labor. A shop may not want to go through all of that for you...but if they will you will pay them labor for it too. That could be 2 hours labor, maybe more? Depending on their ability. Rust is marginally factored in. Sometimes the differential nut (welded or clipped into the frame) breaks loose then the bolt can't be turned from the nut.
That isn't meant to be a discouraging post, but rather a post that identifies the other stuff that should be done when performing a torsion bar lift. Plus, 2" in the rear would likely require longer shocks if you plan to have any body flex, and most definitely if you plan to use it off road.