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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys and gals, I have a new to me set of steel wheels, 6 x 5.5 lug pattern, that the center hole is too small to fit the truck. The wheels I bought are already a 4.25 back space, so, what size spacer do I have to run to set the wheel out just far enough to fit on the truck?

Thanks in advance!
 

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maniac mechanic
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Take your rim off and measure how far the center protrudes from the hub. It's probably somewhere around 3/8" to 1/2" going off memory.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I cannot take it off right now, Doctor won't allow me to lift anything. Back issues. I was hoping someone knew.
 

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I like beer
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For the price of buying spacers to those wheels fit you could prob almost get new set of steelies with the correct hub bore and something more like a 4.5bs.

With 1/2" spacers and 4.25bs they are gonna poke out pretty far...

Just my 2cents....sell em/return em and get tbe right wheel :shrug:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
For the price of buying spacers to those wheels fit you could prob almost get new set of steelies with the correct hub bore and something more like a 4.5bs.

With 1/2" spacers and 4.25bs they are gonna poke out pretty far...

Just my 2cents....sell em/return em and get tbe right wheel :shrug:
Half inch spacers, $35, Set of Steel wheels, $60, total $95. Cheapest wheels I can find new in steel, 3.75 BS, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-85-5883/overview/ , cheapest at 4" BS, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/clm-7015806/overview/ , and cheapest at 4.5" BS, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pcw-52-5884/overview/. After I painted mine I still had only $120 in them, instead of $180 to $220.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Also, you cannot buy the wheel I got with a larger center hole. I will be the only truck on here with these wheels.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Makes more sense now....

:redx::dawg:
Yes sir, I am trying to wait till I get them on the truck to show them off. I went ahead with half inch spacers, and 3.75 BS is about the same as the Dick Cepek DC-2 wheels that some of the guys on here run, and I like the wider stance. I was not sure that 1/4 inch spacers would be thick enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You will have to put new longer lugs in now just so you know which entails removing the hub.
Not for steelies, they are not nearly as thick as the aluminum wheel. we measured that when we had the wheels off 2 weeks ago to see how much to small the center hole was. Just went and looked, I have a half of inch threads showing with the stock wheels mounted.
 

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maniac mechanic
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The first 1/4" of your lug is tapered thread and has no holding power, plus you will be increasing load on the lug by greatly increasing the offset away from the mounting surface.

Do want you want but just making you aware.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I am not sure about the tapered thread thing, but my mechanic says it should be fine, also putting new hubs on the front. If I need new studs, I will stick them in. I run the parts store, and they are not that expensive at my cost. What are we talking, a buck a stud? I still have wheels that are unique, and I did not spend $200 or more to get them.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I was a little concerned too about the extra wide stance with the shallow backspace and extra spacer.
So what is different about my shallow backspace, 3.75" and the Backspace of a DC2 Cepek wheel. The same wheel that this member runs, http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b293/TwistdVizions/20130622_154318.jpg Yellow truck next to mine.

Or the wheel that Fade2Black is running here, http://www.355nation.net/forum/atta...-colorados-canyons-pics-th_1233826624_008.jpg
or here,
http://www.355nation.net/forum/albu...15e7be355bff80cc5715d_22851.jpg?dl=1323376605

All of those pictures are of 3.675 backspace wheels, less backspace than mine will be.

Also, Mine will now be 4" as my buddy Lee came over tonight, and jacked it up and he pulled off the wheel so we could measure, and a 1/4 " spacer will be plenty wide, so I am going that route now. That means my wheels will only stick out a half inch more than what is required for a Rancho lift, and 3/4 inch more than the required backspace for the Skyjacker lift.
 

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The only concern is the extra leverage on the hub. That's all.
In terms of longevity.

If others have indeed been using that setup and not had a hub problem (bearings) then great. It seems as if you've already done your research which is all that really matters.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The only concern is the extra leverage on the hub. That's all.
In terms of longevity.
That is why I am putting new hubs on the front, and new seals in the rear while I have it disassembled. Also changing the rear diff oil.
 

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maniac mechanic
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So what is different about my shallow backspace, 3.75" and the Backspace of a DC2 Cepek wheel. The same wheel that this member runs, http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b293/TwistdVizions/20130622_154318.jpg Yellow truck next to mine.

Or the wheel that Fade2Black is running here, http://www.355nation.net/forum/atta...-colorados-canyons-pics-th_1233826624_008.jpg
or here,
http://www.355nation.net/forum/albu...15e7be355bff80cc5715d_22851.jpg?dl=1323376605

All of those pictures are of 3.675 backspace wheels, less backspace than mine will be.

Also, Mine will now be 4" as my buddy Lee came over tonight, and jacked it up and he pulled off the wheel so we could measure, and a 1/4 " spacer will be plenty wide, so I am going that route now. That means my wheels will only stick out a half inch more than what is required for a Rancho lift, and 3/4 inch more than the required backspace for the Skyjacker lift.
I have 3.5" backspace and 1.25"of that is a spacer(4.75 bakspace cragars, and 1.25 bolt on spacers), so the hubs you don't have to worry about. I just didn't want to see you holding your rim on with the very end of your studs while you put on a probably 75lb wheel and tire combo and a slide on spacer without 2 sets of lugs and conical seats to offset the stress and center the spacer properly. It was opening the door for you to lose a rim and tire going down the highway one day, a life isn't worth a set of lugs.

Be aware though 12.5" wide tires require a lot of lift and normally the fender and body mount trimmed with the backspace in that area, so if you haven't bought tires yet 10.5"-11.5" wide tires are a lot easier to fit. I run 32x11.5x15 even though I could get a 35 under my truck because the 32's being narrower I can bury into my fender well at full lock with no rubbing and nothing trimmed, and my truck is a lot happier on the highway.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I have 3.5" backspace and 1.25"of that is a spacer(4.75 bakspace cragars, and 1.25 bolt on spacers), so the hubs you don't have to worry about. I just didn't want to see you holding your rim on with the very end of your studs while you put on a probably 75lb wheel and tire combo and a slide on spacer without 2 sets of lugs and conical seats to offset the stress and center the spacer properly. It was opening the door for you to lose a rim and tire going down the highway one day, a life isn't worth a set of lugs.

Be aware though 12.5" wide tires require a lot of lift and normally the fender and body mount trimmed with the backspace in that area, so if you haven't bought tires yet 10.5"-11.5" wide tires are a lot easier to fit. I run 32x11.5x15 even though I could get a 35 under my truck because the 32's being narrower I can bury into my fender well at full lock with no rubbing and nothing trimmed, and my truck is a lot happier on the highway.
I understood, and I did check out the lug studs, and the stock lugs are tapered threads. Luckily the replacement hubs from Carquest, where I work, are threaded all the way to the end, and are not the tapered type. The stock lug studs are not threaded all the way to the end. The Rear lugs are different and I think they will be fine with a .25 spacer.

I also am only running 32/11.50-15 tires now and will continue to do so, as I have no plans in the near future to lift it any more.

Thanks for all the comments and concerns, I will post up pics when the project is complete. I am going to be going kind of old school but holding to chevy tradition for trucks. I hope when I am done you all like it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well, after all this talking and waiting, I am going a different route. After getting the 1/4 in spacers, the way they were drilled, they would never have stayed centered, so I sent them back. I am not going to put something like that on the truck. I could have gotten a bolt on spacer, but to use the stock lugs, I would have had to buy a 1.25 inch spacer. That would have basically put my backspace at 2.75, a number that was to small in my opinion. So after all the trying to use an old 6 lug chevy steel wheel from the 70's and 80's the saga has come to an end. Below are the wheels I was going to use, now I have to just sell them. The pesky center hole is only 3.75 in diameter, and the back space is 4". I have a friend here with a full size chevy tahoe that is dropped and he is considering getting them for an old school look. So I can recoup my money I am sure. I am getting new wheels though, They will be here Wednesday. I will post up as soon as I get them mounted. Thanks for all the posts here and for the help.
 

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Premium Member
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The spacers are so light and close to the center of the wheel that it really doesn't matter. I didn't make an effort to center mine for my winter wheels (most likely the same style that you're referencing) and had no issues, no vibration.

As long as the spacers don't fail in compression and you have sufficient lug, you're good.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 
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