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Discussion Starter #1
Whats up everyone, will be posting pictures later and showing my install of a Rockford Fosgate r250x4. Running brand new C&E 14ga. copper wires back to the amp from my 6.5" Kicker CS54 door speakers and wrapping the doors with FatMat so I'm pretty excited. Install will be in the upcoming week. I believe the speakers rated output max was 75w and the amp bridged was rated at 100+ so that's plenty for door speakers. Let the fun begin! :th_woot:

More pics and info coming...
 

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Plz keep updates coming!!! I've got an mtx thunder perform amp that I plan on using for my alpine type r components up front and type s in back, just need a wiring kit to finish. Post any problems you run into, and as always keep the pics coming!!!!!


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Discussion Starter #4
Yea im running 14awg from the amp to the door speakers. Didnt feel like spending the money on 10-12awg, too much $$$. Plus its C&E copper so better quality for the money. Will post more pics when I install!
 

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Check with Crutchfield... That site has alot of info... Good luck with the installation !!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Considered the P400-4 amp by Rockford Fosgate but figured you know with that kinda power you might as well be doin competitions lol Just wanted something cheaper, smaller and plus eventually I'll add another mono amp pushin a sub. But thats down the road yet :p Gotta save a little for that lift^^going uppp^^
 

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Considered the P400-4 amp by Rockford Fosgate but figured you know with that kinda power you might as well be doin competitions lol Just wanted something cheaper, smaller and plus eventually I'll add another mono amp pushin a sub. But thats down the road yet :p Gotta save a little for that lift^^going uppp^^
Lol your doing the exact opposite as me, I got the sub then the doors



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Why are you running 14awg though? I mean it's not necessary. 10-12awg speakers would be nuts. haha You aren't putting THAT much power through them.

I was just curious why you choose to go with a heavier gauge. 100w would run in 18awg no problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Lol no reason at all, got the wire cheap and its quality copper so works for me! Of course I considered a sub setup first but didnt really wanna spend the money on subs and box design etc. Ive had lots of larger setups with over 4000w but definitely just want something clean and simple for this truck. Plus my door speakers have been clipping so amping them should stop that problem giving them the juice they need first!
 

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Looks like a good set up, but if you're using an amp to power the door speakers, and plan to add a separate amp later to push the sub, why not just buy a 5 channel amp?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I prefer mono amps for subs, easier to work with in my opinion :p this is honestly my first hook up ever using more than a 2 channel amp lol
 

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The speaker wire just seems like a heavy gauge wire to me. Cheap or not, if it's not right it's not worth it.

It will be fine I'm sure, but unnecessary (in my opinion).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Got the amp and speaker wire in the mail and prepping for the install tomorrow. Trying to figure out how I'm going to run the new speaker wire through the door boots into the cabin. Looks like it's going to be a huge hassle but worth the effort lol any tips running the wire trough the tube into the door? I've considered pulling with a clothes hanger lol ImageUploadedByAG Free1404226077.941727.jpg


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The stock wiring is plenty unless you just want to change it, which is a pain with the door plugs. I have 100w rms each 6.5"s in each door wired to an audiobahn 2200 hjc turned down but still enough to easily clip them on clean power and just wired to the dash then through the stock wires
 

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The stock wiring is plenty unless you just want to change it, which is a pain with the door plugs. I have 100w rms each 6.5"s in each door wired to an audiobahn 2200 hjc turned down but still enough to easily clip them on clean power and just wired to the dash then through the stock wires
^^^^This. It just wasn't worth the hassle of trying to fight getting the wire through the door boots, save your self the time and hassle and just run to the stock wiring behind the radio.
 

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If you are still dead set on running that heavy wire, some have drilled holes in the harness and pushed new wire through it. Saw a picture of that on here once before.
 

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I drilled holes in the connector at the doors. Here is some pics. I removed the doors it makes it easier to work on.



 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
I'll take a look at it tomorrow and see what I wanna do, prolly will just use the stock wiring and run them back to the amp. Only would want to change to the new speaker wire for cleanliness lol either way just excited to have another project. Thanks for the pics BigR, those were what I was looking for but not wanting to pull the door lol


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You keep confusing me by saying running speaker wire to the amp. Power is fed TO the speaker so you're running it from the amp.

I keep reading it as you're sending your signal wires to the amp (speaker wire to the amp). I know, all technical...... but it is two different things.
 
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