How To: Replace A Colorado/Canyon Alternator or Starter - Chevrolet Colorado & GMC Canyon Forum
Chevrolet Colorado & GMC Canyon Forum
 
Go Back   Chevrolet Colorado & GMC Canyon Forum > Tech Area > How-To/Tutorials/Reviews/Service Bulletins > How-To: Lighting & Electrical

355Nation.net is the premier Chevrolet Colorado Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
User Tag List

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 01-19-2011, 09:25 PM   #1
New To The Nation

How-To CM 

 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
How To: Replace A Colorado/Canyon Alternator or Starter

Disclaimer
The community here at 355nation.net urges you to please use caution and seek professional assistance when performing modifications to your vehicle. Before attempting any modification it is advised that you refer to your Colorado or Canyon service manual or contact a certified mechanic as not all GMT355 trucks are the same. The staff and the associated members are in no way responsible for any damages, injuries or other harm inflicted to your vehicle or yourself which may result in attempting these modifications. The posts and content presented on this site reflect in no way the views of 355nation.net or it’s ownership.




A 355nation How To presented by
LSUBOY

Project Name
How To Remove A Colorado/Canyon Alternator or Starter

Project Description
Step by step guide to replacing the alternator and/or starter on a non V8 Canyon or Colorado

Skill Level
Moderate but VERY VERY TIME CONSUMING


Project Vehicle
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Colorado
Year: 2004
Engine: 3.5L
Power windows: No
Sun Roof: No

Tools Needed

1/8 inch and 1/4 inch

Socket Wrench Socket wrench
Torque Wrench 15mm socket
Long/short 10mm socket 15mm ratchet type box wrench from Sears or Mac Tools
10mm box wrench Long/short extensions
short & long extensions Offset socket or offset adapter
Torque wrench

You can only use a ratchet box wrench with a small diameter like the Sears or Blackhawk by Mac Tools. Harbor Freight types are too large in diameter for said job.

All big bolts are 15mm and 37 ft. lbs.
All throttle body, intake manifold and thermostat bolts are 10mm and 89 inch pounds


Project Time
* 1-1/2 days for antifreeze, plugs, throttle body, thermostat, starter & alternator removal
* 3 to 4 hours for alternator because you don't have to remove the starter or manifold
* 5 hours to all day to replace the starter because you have to remove everything


Project Cost
$215.00 plus your labor for a QUALITY rebuild starter & alternator from a QUALITY shop in your town using high-end replace parts.........This is not the time for a cheap parts

$650.00 plus tax plus towing to the GM dealer if your starter fails and you are far away from home...Rebuilt starter also




GO TO THE 355 NATION HOW TO SECTION AND READ THE FOLLOWING HOW TO'S:

1. Antifreeze replacement
2. Spark plug replacement
3. Throttle body cleaning

N O W S T A R T H E R E:


SUPPORT DRIVERS SIDE OF TRUCK ON A STAND THEN DISCONNECT AND OR REMOVE

1. Throttle body from the intake manifold....89 inch lbs.
2. Top electrical harness plastic cap



3. Carefully pry up the top electrical wiring harness from the motor using a large screwdriver



4. (6) clips holding the top fan shroud then remove the top fan shroud
5. Serpentine belt
6. Battery and battery box
7. Electrical line to the alternator
8. Compressor hose from the engine hoist bracket
9. Drivers side tire....100 ft. lbs
10. Drivers side lower inside fender well housing



11. Reach inside the drivers side fender-well housing and disconnect the electrical line to
the compressor in (2 separate) places VERY VERY IMPORTANT!
12. Engine hoist bracket bracket but you can't get it off until you unbolt the alternator

ALTERNATOR REMOVAL:

1. Remove the 3 bolts to the alternator and rest it on top of the compressor hose...37 ft.lbs
2. Remove the engine hoist bracket....37 ft. lbs.

At this point the alternator will not come out of the truck until you remove/reposition the air compressor


AIR COMPRESSOR REMOVAL OPTIONAL BUT MAKES JOB A LITTLE EASIER:

1. Right below the front of the alternator is a pulley that the serpentine belt rests on



2. Remove the front 15mm bolt and slide the pulley off....37 ft. lbs. gives top compressor
bolt wrench more throw

AIR COMPRESSOR REMOVAL WITH OR WITHOUT OPTIONAL:

1. Unscrew the bottom right compressor bolt with your offset adapter BUT leave the bolt attached to the motor for about 10 or so hand turns



2. Get on the ground from the front of the truck and unscrew the bottom front compressor bolt and leave it attached to the motor for 10 or so hand turns

BOTTOM COMPRESSOR BOLTS FOR SLIDING RAM TECHNIQUE:

* The trick to removing the compressor lies with the top compressor bolt. You must use a ratchet box wrench; However, after a while you cannot get the wrench off the bolt or move it without having some play somewhere. Therefore, you use the ratchet box wrench on the top bolt as far as it will go...Then you slide the compressor to the right in order to get enough play to continue removing the top bolt. YOUR BOTTOM BOLTS WERE LEFT ON IN ORDER THAT YOU COULD USE THEM AS A SLIDING RAM FOR PUSHING THE COMPRESSOR TO THE RIGHT TO GET MORE ROOM FOR THE RATCHET WRENCH ON THE TOP BOLT...W H E W!

1. Once you get the top compressor bolt off, remove the bottom bolts
2. Stand in front of the truck and pull the compressor forwards
3. Remove the alternator from the truck

* If you will only be replacing the alternator, place it in the truck T H E N reverse
the instructions.
* If you will be replacing the starter, then move on to PART II

IN ORDER for you to remove your starter is is understood that you have done PART I, "Alternator Removal". And, that you have just repositioned your Air Compressor, then removed your alternator.

NOW START HERE:

* INTAKE MANIFOLD REMOVAL

1. Do not rush but think about everything a couple of times before you perform each step.

2. Stand on the driver side fender and look at every wire-loom on that side of the car.

3. Use a large screwdriver and detach each set of wires from their round loom lock.

4. Feel towards the bottom of the intake for any looms missed.

5. Look towards the back of the intake manifold for any looms missed.

6. Did you disconnect any and all sensors, etc. attached to the intake manifold?



* DIPSTICK BRACKET AND WHITE ATTACHMENT THINGEE (4) 10mm bolts total





1. There is a metal bracket attached to the intake manifold.

2. There are (3) bolts holding this bracket to the manifold.

3. Carefully pry open the white plastic thingee connected to the metal bracket.

4. Remove the bolt holding the dipstick housing to the manifold. (4th bolt)

5. Metal bracket:
1st bolt at the front of metal bracket
2nd bolt at the rear of metal bracket
3rd bolt underneath and to the rear of the bracket

6. Remove the front and rear metal bracket bolts with your 1/8 socket & extension.

7. Remove the 3rd bolt with a 1/8 box wrench and don't even try to put it back.

8. You might find it easier to remove the underneath bolt (3rd) first?

9. Remove the metal bracket from the truck while taking time to remember how?
(wiggle-wiggle, slide to the front together with moving the gas/dipstick lines a bit)

WHEN REPLACING METAL BRACKET: Make sure the white thingee is properly orientated.






INTAKE MANIFOLD BOLT ORDER AND TORQUE ORDER


3 6 9
1 2 4 5 7 8 B O L T O R D E R

5 3 1 2 4 6 T O R Q U E O R D E R......89 inch lbs.


While keeping the bolt pattern in mind, feel under the manifold until you locate each bolt.

Start at the front bumper and keep feeling w h i l e saying to yourself, 1 23 4 56 7 89,
with (3 on top of 2), (6 on top of 5) and (9 on top of 8). #8 & 9 on left side of photo.

Your hardest bolt will be #7 because you will have to feel around and or thru the dipstick/gas lines. Keep feeling around until you feel comfee about finding # 7.

Unscrew all 9 intake bolts then lift the intake off by puling up and to the passenger side at the same time. Don't worry because the bolts will not drop out of the manifold..GO GM!

WARNING: When your torque the manifold after a new gasket, your torque wrench will have a very short throw to torque # 8&9 because they are by the firewall. Your wrench will only be able to move 3 to 5 inches total. NO 1/4 INCH TORQUE WRENCH........1/8 inch only!

WARNING: If you do not torque the bolts in the proper order the truck will run as if it has dropped a cylinder. And, you will have to go back and detorque/retorque the manifold. How do I know?

WARNING: The book says torque the manifold in stages, ie., 39, 59, 69, 89 inch lbs. or something like that. However, my second time around I went with a method of getting them all up to about 69 inch lbs. then to 89 inch lbs. (USING THE PROPER TORQUE ORDER)


* Starter View after manifold removal:



Starter bolts: 37 ft. lbs. small electrical contacts..tight!

SHORT TAKES:

* There are a couple of small items to remove that I may have left out but if you follow
my directions, it will be obvious what they are.

* At 100,000 miles, the cost of my starter and alternator rebuild was $216.00 and I made the decision to do the job after learning that my local GM dealer would charge me 1,000.00 plus tax for their REBUILT starter & alternator.

* My truck was out of action for a week and a half while I figured this job out. And, I hope that you enjoy these directions because I had a good-ole time preparing them....LSUBOY!

Last edited by blurred; 07-17-2011 at 12:26 AM.
LSUBOY is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 11-21-2011, 09:24 AM   #2
Nation Affiliate

355 O.G. TXSM 10 

 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Houston
Posts: 296
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Re: How To: Replace A Colorado/Canyon Alternator or Starter

This can also be used as a how to for replacing your idler pulley bracket. The idler pulley itself is easy but if your bracket breaks as mine did you will need to go as far as getting the compressor out as shown here.
__________________
Rotrex S/C'd // 10 psi // >306 WHP // FOR SALE - Click Me
Just_Hayes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2011, 01:01 PM   #3
Nation Affiliate

TXSM 10 

 
breaker104's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Laporte, TX
Posts: 356
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Send a message via Yahoo to breaker104
Re: How To: Replace A Colorado/Canyon Alternator or Starter

Quote:
Originally Posted by Just_Hayes View Post
This can also be used as a how to for replacing your idler pulley bracket. The idler pulley itself is easy but if your bracket breaks as mine did you will need to go as far as getting the compressor out as shown here.
I think my starter is going out... and this guide is freaking me out.
__________________
"If it ain't Metal, it ain't music!"
And yes, I AM a black dude!
http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1129007753
K&N FIPK, Flowmaster 40 series, Stocker2ed, JTR Header, 'Vette Servo, Polk Audio DB6501, Infinity 475a, Infinity REF-1600a, Supermod PTB and Sparkz
breaker104 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2011, 06:09 PM   #4
Nation Advocate

How-To CM 355Loyalty 100K SESM 2013 

 
FlyingTomato's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Gainesville, GA
Posts: 919
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Garage
Re: How To: Replace A Colorado/Canyon Alternator or Starter

Replaced my starter last week, without taking the manifold off
It's a bitch to replace regardless, but it beats paying at least 400 to have it done.
FlyingTomato is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2011, 09:51 PM   #5
Nation Affiliate

355 O.G. TXSM 10 

 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Houston
Posts: 296
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Re: How To: Replace A Colorado/Canyon Alternator or Starter

Quote:
Originally Posted by breaker104 View Post
I think my starter is going out... and this guide is freaking me out.
Mine has a dead spot that seems worse when the truck is hot. Really sucks when you have to keep turning the key to get it to start. We can do it at the same time...it's actually not that bad, will take me half the time to get through this next time. It was not fun though.
__________________
Rotrex S/C'd // 10 psi // >306 WHP // FOR SALE - Click Me
Just_Hayes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2011, 10:05 PM   #6
GOD BLESS OUR TROOPS

Purple Heart Military Service OG Lifetime Contributing Member Calendar Spread USASM2012 NESM 11 NESM 2013 

 
05colorado5spd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: New Milford Connecticut
Posts: 1,312
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Re: How To: Replace A Colorado/Canyon Alternator or Starter

Yea its time consuming to get to all of the things but not hard I had to do all that plus just to do a clutch take it slow and get a manual to help you along
__________________

I WAS AT THE USASM
05colorado5spd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2012, 01:48 AM   #7
New To The Nation
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Re: How To: Replace A Colorado/Canyon Alternator or Starter

thanks for making this one. its a big help for those who are in need of replacements for the alternators. its a huge help.
mike6187 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2012, 12:07 AM   #8
New To The Nation
 
BigCountry07's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Slate, WV/ El Paso,TX
Posts: 31
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Re: How To: Replace A Colorado/Canyon Alternator or Starter

I just took my alternator off yesterday, did everything the hard way because I didn't see this until today. it was a total PITA trying to get to that bottom bolt,, I didn't think to use multiple extensions and take the inner fender out haha. reassembly is always easier anyways... Great write-up, thanks man
BigCountry07 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2012, 01:03 PM   #9
Captain of the Enterprise

Contributing Member How-To CM Calendar Spread USASM2012 

 
Cherry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Phoenix and Tucson
Posts: 1,375
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Garage
Re: How To: Replace A Colorado/Canyon Alternator or Starter

Well when I hit 100,000 I am gong to do this s well as upgrading to a high output
Cherry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2013, 11:17 PM   #10
Nation Affiliate

Contributing Member How-To CM 

 
atxjax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Pflugerville, TX
Posts: 193
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Re: How To: Replace A Colorado/Canyon Alternator or Starter

Appreciate your thread. Thanks for the hard work. I was able to get my starter out, tested and back in the truck in about 3 hours without having to take the manifold off.


1. Remove knock sensor right behind starter

2. Unbolt the coupler to the steering shaft and swing it out of the way.

3. remove two nuts from the tubing and loom bracket on transmission.


Then carefully manuver the starter around the looms and lines. It will come out by the backside of the inner fender next to the lines and the loom.
atxjax is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2014, 07:06 PM   #11
New To The Nation
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Re: How To: Replace A Colorado/Canyon Alternator or Starter

Were you able to do this by accessing through the wheel well or did you have to put the truck up on a lift?

Quote:
Originally Posted by atxjax View Post
Appreciate your thread. Thanks for the hard work. I was able to get my starter out, tested and back in the truck in about 3 hours without having to take the manifold off.


1. Remove knock sensor right behind starter

2. Unbolt the coupler to the steering shaft and swing it out of the way.

3. remove two nuts from the tubing and loom bracket on transmission.


Then carefully manuver the starter around the looms and lines. It will come out by the backside of the inner fender next to the lines and the loom.
Toaliosis is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Tags
alternator, chevrolet colorado, gmc canyon, howto, starter

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:09 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.0.6 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd. Runs best on HiVelocity Hosting.
All content copyright 355Nation.net

Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.

Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.3.0