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How to: Changing your Thermostat

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188K views 105 replies 54 participants last post by  dirtwarrior  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
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A 355nation How To presented by
1is2many

Project Name
Changing thermostat

Project Description
How to change out a bad thermostat

Skill Level
Moderate

Project Vehicle
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Colorado
Year: 2005
Engine: 2.8L
Power windws: No
Sun Roof: No

Tools Needed
3/8" ratchet, long extension, 10mm socket, 3/8" knuckle attachment, adjustable pliers, plastic clip removal tool, jack, jack stand, wheel lug wrench, something to hold the coolant as it drains out.

Project Time
1 hour or less

Project Cost
$45.00 for the thermostat, could be found for less but I bought at a store that had it in stock rather than waiting.





You will have to take off the driver side front wheel and remove the plastic clips holding the shroud and remove the shroud.

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At this point you can look through and see where the coolant line attaches to the thermostat housing.

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You will see the two 10mm (they aren't 10mm but everything else was too small or too large and 10mm was the best fit and worked) bolts one on the top left and one on the bottom right of the housing. Before removing either bolt I removed the radiator cap and coolant line on the bottom of the radiator, the side closet to where you are working and let it drain into a container. That way when you remove the old thermostat housing you dont get as much spillage there. Also once you get the housing loose having the tubing free to move around helps a lot.

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After draining that I used the long extension and the knuckle with 10mm socket as you can't get a straight shot at either bolt.

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Get the bolts loose and get the old unit out into the area you can work on it.

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At this point you'll be happy that you removed the line from the radiator. Keep in mind which way is right side up, there is a bump out and a line on the housing, this should be on the upper right hand side as you look in at. Shown below with the new part

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Loosing the clamp and slide it onto the old housing not the tubing. Also notice the white marking on the tubing lines up with the line on the housing.

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Now transfer the clamp to the new housing and install it to the coolant line and put the clamp back on, the white mark on the tubing matches the line on the new housing.

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Before putting the new part on make sure that the old o-ring did not stick to the motor. If it did like mine did then just reach in there and grab it, and clean the area so the new o-ring seals properly.

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The new part should come with the o-ring already in place. Its time to put it back on, get it back in place. I used some plastic from a plastic bag to hold the bolt on the socket so it wouldn't fall out.

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Get both bolts started before tightening one of them and try to apply equal pressure to both bolts as you tighten them so the o-ring will seat properly. Torque bolts to 10 ft lbs.

After installing the new housing/thermostat put the coolant line back on the radiator.

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At this point you need to add more coolant, then start the truck (leave radiator cap off) and let warm up until the thermostat opens up and allows the air bubbles to come out. Adding more coolant if needed as the air comes out the coolant level will drop. I did this with the shroud and tire still off in case there was a leak I wouldn't have to take that stuff all apart again.

For information on how to change coolant please reference: How To: Change Coolant and Inspect Cooling System

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You'll notice in the pic above I had to remove the jack stand and lower the truck to a level point so the trapped air could get out. Once you have proper coolant level and proper temperature and no leaks put the shroud and clips back in and put the wheel back on and clean up!
 

Attachments

#10 ·
Thermostats generally don't get changed until they stop working, hoses just inspect them and if not cracked or dry rotted then use them. You'll know when your thermostat stops working, either you will over heat or your truck/car will not warm up properly.
 
#13 ·
I'd just like to clarify that the middle of the gauge is not necessarily normal. There are tons of threads about this debate in how some barely crack 1/4 of the gauge yet some register 3/4 all the time.

Not trying to call anybody a liar but if the OP is seeing 3/4 or 1/4 gauge I don't want them to become concerned that a thermostat is necessary.

It's more important to pay attention to the gauge to be sure it reads stable, no matter where it is on the gauge. You will likely throw a code (light) when it's time too.
 
#14 ·
Liar? not sure how that comment even came up it makes no sense. I never made any comment to where the gauge should be. Also codes are not always thrown because I needed a new t-stat long before (1.5 yrs) any code came up. it will overheat if it is stuck closed which will expedite your changing of this part.lol if it sticks open like mine was you can still operate the vehicle it just wont reach operating temp unless idling for a while, as soon as you hit the gas to take off the coolant will constantly flow resulting in colder temps. i could rev the engine and watch the gauge drop.

Stable temp is good however stable temp doesn't mean correct temp so I would partially disagree with you, if it is stable but too high or too low then i would say something is off.
 
#15 ·
Read two posts above my previous one and it will make perfect sense.

Yeah, tability could be a poor choice of words. To clarify even further then, if the gauge is as stable in position today as it has been since you've owned it then it's most likely okay. If the driver used to read at gauge position X and it's suddenly stable at position Y, then I would also agree that it's either too warm or too cold.

To put any concerns to rest, reading the physical water temperature would be best. Scangauge and Ultragauge will both display the water temp but if you don't want to purchase one of those, a shop should have an infared thermometer to read it for ya.

Hope that's helpful.
 
#18 · (Edited)
My truck usually reads just above the 1/4 mark on the guage . . . it has since I got it.

May 31st I was highway driving in a very heavy downpour and threw my first code - Ultraguage read P0128 . . . which as I understand it means the engine was not at its optimum operating temperture in a specified time frame. I think there was so much cold rainwater being driven through the radiator it cooled the engine too much. I cleared the code and it has never repeated.

Anyway, it seems to me while 1/4 on the temp guage is Ok, higher would be Ok too . . . my Ultraguage reports average temps around 170 to 180 degrees. I haven't driven it on any really hot days yet to see where the upper range will flatten out.
 
#20 ·
What part number did you use for the T-stat?
My truck is at the dealership getting a cooling system flush and a recall brake lamp switch, and the guy only had the new, smaller 35mm T-stat, so I told him to leave my current one alone. $175 to swap that part. Bwah... he didn't like my 355 knowledge.
 
#25 ·
I have an 04 Colorado and an 06 H3, both with 3.5 I5's. I wanted to change the stat in the H3 with a 180 degree, so I ordered one from Summit Racing. I installed it when it came in and the ECT was the same so I called Stant. I was told Stant does not make these stats Baer makes them for Stant and Baer hasn't made a 180 degree stat in over a year.
You need to check the stamping on the stat, not the housing, if it has 88 on it, it's 88 degrees C which is what the stock stat is 192 degrees F. Check out this link for what I did How's this engine coolant temperature?.
I hope this helps,
Mark
 
#33 ·
Anyone get this done at the stealership? I was in the other day to check the warranty on my PCM (turns out I have to replace that, but that's a different story) and they said my thermostat was bad. Then quoted me FOUR HUNDRED AND TEN DOLLARS to replace it!! I was planning on replacing it myself regardless of cost, but that just totally shocked me.