You're better off straight axle swapping and using a toyota axle or dana like most guys here. For what you would spend on stock parts it wouldn't cost that much more and you would have a much more reliable and easy to maintain drivetrain. Just get yourself an old gm manual transfer case and a dana 44 and start reading and saving.

Onelow1ton, dentsanddings, a canadian member can't remember his handle right now sorry man, and a few other guys have all done straight axle swaps on 4x4 trucks so you can basically copy their front design for ideas and then you will just have a better transfer case and easier driveshaft options by using the older GM set-up.

 

Your best bet would be to run a Dana 300 tcase and get the adapter to the 4l60 through advanced adapters. That will make it easier for you to get driveshafts cause they'd be ujoints at the tcase. Then go get a set of 1/2 ton axles. I was actually quite pleased with how little my tires stick out.

 

how much would all of this cost?

 

It varies to be honest. Some people can get it done relatively cheap (couple grand) and goes up from there depending on what you can do yourself and the deals you find. :shrug:.

I got quoted by a shop for just a front end conversion with a high pinion Dana44 custom built, 3-Link, and Coilovers for ~$5000 drive in-drive out price. Then I need SOA and matched rear gears, so ultimately a new rear axle as ours can't go past 4.10/4.11 and longer driveshaft. So I'll easily be around $5700 before rims/tires. Tack on another $1000-$1500 for tires (and wheels if needed) and it'll be around $7000 to go that route. (everything after the main quote is just my estimate for a higher side.)

Hope that gives you and idea. The guys that have actually done the conversion could give you a better, actual, estimate than just my speculation.

 

It would be cheaper to sell your truck and buy a 4x4 if you want a 4x4. That said though, if you are set on keeping your truck, a SAS is definitely the best bet for the above mentioned reasons. Definitely not cheap, especially if you're paying a shop to do all the work, but then converting to factory OEM 4x4 setup is barely going to be any cheaper, and will be weaker and less capable off road.

 

Well my truck is paid for. Not gonna be cheaper for me. When I first bought it I regreted not getting 4x4 but made no sense to trade it in. So now i'm stuck with it and i'm keeping this truck forver. So it'll be something down the road that happens. Thanks for all the tips fellas.

 

And my cousin is very knowledgeable in most of this. He has his own shop as a mechanic and has what i'll need to do it. Between the family discount and me helping, i'm sure I could get it done for a good deal compared to bringing it a shop.

 

Then going SAS could be an awesome option for you. What tire size are you shooting to fit? And how big do you want to go?

Personally...I'm looking for Dana 44 front, and either a rear Dana 44 or a Corporate 12 bolt. Going to run 4.56's or 4.88's, and shoot for 37's. Though I might reuse the Isuzu T150 TC, or I might do like gway suggests and run a Dana 300...still undecided on that.

 

I'm looking at doing the same as you, except I plan on running the stock TC until it shits out. Then I'll go D300. Unless I need something to do and get antsy.

 

Honestly I don't want any more than 35's. Of course I said I was ok with only 33's when I had 32's..so it just keeps going. But I really don't feel a need to go over 35's.

 

I´ll recommend to make a serious analysis based on this topics:

1- How much and how hard do you want to off-road
2- Are you doing this to learn about mechanics, or just to have a 4x4 truck

If you are trying to wheel very hard I would recommend to get a jeep or an ATV (Much more fun at that point and designed for that specific purpose)

If you have no plans to become the rock crawling king then a regular 4x4 truck will do the service. Then no need to SAS or heavy equipment. Then I would recommend to trade your truck for a 4x4

Finally if you are aiming to this project to learn about mechanics then go for the SAS and take the advantage of having a shop in the family.

 

Got the ATV and really no plans on doing anything crazy with the truck. But plenty of times I could of used a 4x4 and just want it for fun. Yes I also want to learn more about the mechanical side of it but don't want to go overboard either. A simple setup would be fine with me.

 

If you want to run around 35"s you'll need 4.56s to still have power. I believe a Dana 44 and a 12/14 bolt rear would work well. I'm running full width with 4.5" back spacing and it looks real good. The 4l60 adapter is $500 and a Dana 300 are around 150-300. If u find a set of matching axles you'll come out cheap as shit. My rear driveshaft had to be narrowed because the diff was a lot bigger in my 14 bolt. Running stock leafs would work real well to clear 35"s. you could get them cheap off of jc Whitney. You'll be looking at 1500-3g for labor to do the swap.

 

If you want to run around 35"s you'll need 4.56s to still have power. .

really? lol i had to.

 

I could clear 35's with IFS, but I wouldn't have the strength, articulation, or gearing and locker options. 1 ton axles are a lot wider...but a Dana 44 Corporate 12 bolt combo is only like 2" wider than a factory Z71 setup...and easily strong enough for 35's or 37's.

 

Oh yea. I have a buddy with a jeep on 40" boggers. Small block 350 on Dana 30s or 44s and all he did was put chromoly axles in and has never had a problem. That's why I got this Dana 44. I should be fine up to 40"s with the i5 and my 14 bolt has 33 or 35 spline axles so I'm not worried there either

 

Your at like 4.30s tho. And only 2wd so less weight.

 

true but my cc 2wd weighs a good deal more than a reg cab 4wd. last time i got on the scales it was about 4,600lbs after subracting my weight. im just messing anyhow. although i will most likely try these on 37"s before i decide on going to lower gears. i have very close to stock pick up right now. if it stays ifs i think i want a set up that can clear 37"s and just lower the crank to run 35"s later if i want a better ride... but idk

 

If I were using a 2wd I'd go drivers drop and use a ford front axle. You can hang a front axle really low if you want to.

 

Throw some 4.88s in it and give it hell lol. I think 4.88s and 37"s are a perfect match. I love the reaction I get when I tell people how much mpg I get.

 

Assume I decide to stay with 33's and go no more into the lift, but still would want 4WD, what do y'all think the best option is from there. I see no real NEED to go to 35's other than because I want to go higher. But I think I may be okay with 33's.

Also, back to the original question. Does anyone remember the thread i'm talking about that was talking about all this?

 

I really don't remember it. I remember people wanting parts to try it. For 33"s I'd say 4.10s or 4.30s if u wanted alittle more. I think 4.56 would be overkill. Or go 4.30 and split the difference if u do wanna upgrade to 35"s then it won't be too bad.

 

Think it would be easier to try and find a donor 4x4 355 and pull parts from it? Yeah I figured i'm going with 4:10 eventually. At the minimum.

 

If you're going to stick with stock 355 4wd components, you might as well trade in your truck and get the 4WD version. It will save you money/headaches in the long run. If not, you should go ahead and upgrade everything to a better set up that can be upgraded in the future if you decide that 33" tires wasn't enough or want to do more serious off-roading.

 

Well it's paid for, so i'm not trading it in. I got lucky with some circumstances and paid it off 2 years early.

 

It'll still be a pain to try and convert it to ifs 4wd. You'll have to swap trannys to a 4wd or pull the tail end off and swap to your 2wd if their interchangeable. The wiring to get the stock tcase to work would be a pain in the ass along with the front actuator. It wont be as simple as pull off the other truck and plug it in to yours i'd say. That's why I said you'd be better running a dana 300 case. I forgot you were 2wd so you wouldn't need the adapter plate, just build a crossmember to hold it and run a intermediate driveshaft. Along with more durable. I was changing hubs every 40-50k on 33"s. A solid axle is so much more durable. Even if you left the stock rear axle you could find a front with 4.10 gears and have at it.

 

ya i would sell it out right and buy a 4wd. its feasable to convert but in looking for a used truck comparable to yours but 4wd, the resale is going to be almost the same.

 

That's awesome that you got it paid. I just wouldn't convert your 2WD with 355 stock 4WD components. I just don't think you will be happy with it in the long run. It is your truck, though and good luck with your decision.

 

You may have paid it off early, but it will still be cheaper for you to sell it and buy an equivalent 4x4 if you're looking for the stock IFS 4x4 setup. If you're set on keeping the truck for a long time why not upgrade to a stronger more durable setup? Will be barely any more than the conversion to weak stock parts.

 

I agree with the logic. It would make sense to use better parts. That's why I asked. Knew id get input from yall. Just don't see me getting enough for my truck to make it worth while. Thx for all the input.