Had an interesting find when switching over to a 40% coolant / 60% water mix. For curiosity sake, I took samples from the radiator before draining and also from what drained out the block, both had the gauge pegged, which at first I thought was faulty. Then mixing the antifreeze to the new ratio proved it worked fine. I speculate that from my purchase date last year and also after this recent dealer engine repair, it has been running straight antifreeze or at least something way above 70%. So after draining the radiator, I decided to remove the thermostat and flush out the engine block with distilled water. All went good and testing the next morning showed just a hair higher % of water than expected. Over the next week or so I brought the ratio back up to ~ 40/60. The before numbers always rose quickly to 197-199 no matter the time of year, time of day or driving style, stop-n-go traffic temps were 203-206*, WOT runs rarely saw a drop. With the new mix, the 25 minute morning commute to work, temps ranged from 186-188 with 192 highest. 15 minute lunch time drive, highest at 194. The 30 minute commute back home was 195-197, stop n go is 199 with an occasional 201* spike (traffic is heavier in the pm). Most importantly, I noticed with any acceleration the temp numbers dropped and rose again, all around a huge difference. Feeling confident that it was a coolant ratio problem, I brought the numbers back up and according to the chart I’m at about 45% coolant 55% water with no significant changes other than my morning temps getting up quicker and to 195. I almost added RP Purple Ice, but the label recommends a 50/50 mix, so I went with RedLines WaterWetter.
Newcoly
70%+ Antifreeze not good at cooling :(
Had an interesting find when switching over to a 40% coolant / 60% water mix. For curiosity sake, I took samples from the radiator before draining and also from what drained out the block, both had the gauge pegged, which at first I thought was faulty. Then mixing the antifreeze to the new ratio proved it worked fine. I speculate that from my purchase date last year and also after this recent dealer engine repair, it has been running straight antifreeze or at least something way above 70%. So after draining the radiator, I decided to remove the thermostat and flush out the engine block with distilled water. All went good and testing the next morning showed just a hair higher % of water than expected. Over the next week or so I brought the ratio back up to ~ 40/60. The before numbers always rose quickly to 197-199 no matter the time of year, time of day or driving style, stop-n-go traffic temps were 203-206*, WOT runs rarely saw a drop. With the new mix, the 25 minute morning commute to work, temps ranged from 186-188 with 192 highest. 15 minute lunch time drive, highest at 194. The 30 minute commute back home was 195-197, stop n go is 199 with an occasional 201* spike (traffic is heavier in the pm). Most importantly, I noticed with any acceleration the temp numbers dropped and rose again, all around a huge difference. Feeling confident that it was a coolant ratio problem, I brought the numbers back up and according to the chart I’m at about 45% coolant 55% water with no significant changes other than my morning temps getting up quicker and to 195. I almost added RP Purple Ice, but the label recommends a 50/50 mix, so I went with RedLines WaterWetter.
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just a quick update. I purchased an eFan from James and decided to get a more accurate reading of my new mix with a refractometer. pretty cool little tool for $22 and no guessing of the ratio and much easier scale to read ... -25*C = -13*F
https://www.amazon.com/Antifreeze-R...HTCW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1528722949&sr=8-3&keywords=antifreeze+refractometer
https://www.amazon.com/Antifreeze-R...HTCW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1528722949&sr=8-3&keywords=antifreeze+refractometer
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Most automotive coolants are ethylene glycol based and have a few advantages over water because they raise the boiling point and lower the freezing point but there are certainly some compromises too. The specific heat capacity is reduced, viscosity is increased, and it requires a higher flow rate so it takes more power to pump than water.
A 50/50 mix @ 200F when compared with water has only 86% of the heat carrying (specific heat) capacity with a -33F freeze & 225F boiling point.
A 30 coolant/70 water mix @ 200F has 94%, +8F freeze, & 220F boiling.
Straight water= 100%, +32F freeze, & 212F boiling.
I am not advocating anyone with these trucks run straight water except for short term use because all that aluminum needs the corrosion protection that is included in the coolant. In my case the lowest temperature my truck will see is +12F so I can safely use a 30/70 blend and my cooling system will have an extra 8% cooling capacity over 50/50. I do occasionally tow my 2 axle car trailer with loads up to 5,000lbs without any cooling problems but having extra cooling capacity available is comforting. I do use 30/70 in everything & usually change it @ 50,000 miles.
A 70/30 blend would only have an (estimated) 79% of the cooling capacity of water! More coolant than 50/50 is not better unless you are above the Arctic Circle.
A 50/50 mix @ 200F when compared with water has only 86% of the heat carrying (specific heat) capacity with a -33F freeze & 225F boiling point.
A 30 coolant/70 water mix @ 200F has 94%, +8F freeze, & 220F boiling.
Straight water= 100%, +32F freeze, & 212F boiling.
I am not advocating anyone with these trucks run straight water except for short term use because all that aluminum needs the corrosion protection that is included in the coolant. In my case the lowest temperature my truck will see is +12F so I can safely use a 30/70 blend and my cooling system will have an extra 8% cooling capacity over 50/50. I do occasionally tow my 2 axle car trailer with loads up to 5,000lbs without any cooling problems but having extra cooling capacity available is comforting. I do use 30/70 in everything & usually change it @ 50,000 miles.
A 70/30 blend would only have an (estimated) 79% of the cooling capacity of water! More coolant than 50/50 is not better unless you are above the Arctic Circle.
So far I'm not sure if I'm seeing a benefit from using 60% water with the efan. my driving temps are around 200* and stop-n-go traffic rise to 208*-210*. also the same numbers from 2 years ago with a dealer mix of over 50% antifreeze ratio (hence my first post here). I am seeing a mpg and power increase, so I guess its all a compromise. I’m pulling the t-stat and installing the .060 spacer James included with the fan. pretty sure this will bring the temps down without effecting mpgs ...
I don't understand why you think your truck is too hot. Temperature reduction will normally reduce MPG, decrease oil and filter life, and encourage sludge formation. Why do you think 210F in traffic is too high? With a 50/50 coolant mix & a 15# radiator cap the boiling temperature is over 260F. It is not really getting hot until about 225F or more assuming it is full of fluids, the spark timing is correct, and it is not detonating.
These are not old school cast iron motors with carburetors and distributors. We have an all aluminum engine with sophisticated controls that actually runs more efficiently and cleaner at higher temperatures. The fuel injection, excellent cylinder sealing, and higher temperature keeps unburned fuel out of the crankcase and also prevents any condensation from accumulating and forming sludge. When I did my 3.5 valve job at 150,000 miles there was almost nothing to clean when I pulled the pan & valve cover.
I see you have added a trans cooler which is always wise especially with a truck. I used to have huge trans & engine oil coolers on my old big block 3/4T Suburban.
These are not old school cast iron motors with carburetors and distributors. We have an all aluminum engine with sophisticated controls that actually runs more efficiently and cleaner at higher temperatures. The fuel injection, excellent cylinder sealing, and higher temperature keeps unburned fuel out of the crankcase and also prevents any condensation from accumulating and forming sludge. When I did my 3.5 valve job at 150,000 miles there was almost nothing to clean when I pulled the pan & valve cover.
I see you have added a trans cooler which is always wise especially with a truck. I used to have huge trans & engine oil coolers on my old big block 3/4T Suburban.
I'm sure there will be an optimal cooling/corrosion resistance ratio for every engine. That is your quest for performance not mine. But I'll sit back and watch the science, I like geeky stuff.
On a more simple perspective from up north, we can regularly see temperatures aproaching -50F or worse. Come late fall we'll normally top up the coolant to try and achieve higher temperature resistance. Being that its cold as a witches tit, cooling isn't going to be our issue for the next 8 months, but not having a cracked block after it froze up is priceless.
I see simple logic though, more "anti-freeze" means not freezing rather than more coolant meaning more cooling, for that you need to move more "fluid" through bigger surface area. Thanks for the chart though, obviously 50/50 will get the average vehicle through, but it's nice to know a 60/40 is absolutely enough and beyond.
On a more simple perspective from up north, we can regularly see temperatures aproaching -50F or worse. Come late fall we'll normally top up the coolant to try and achieve higher temperature resistance. Being that its cold as a witches tit, cooling isn't going to be our issue for the next 8 months, but not having a cracked block after it froze up is priceless.
I see simple logic though, more "anti-freeze" means not freezing rather than more coolant meaning more cooling, for that you need to move more "fluid" through bigger surface area. Thanks for the chart though, obviously 50/50 will get the average vehicle through, but it's nice to know a 60/40 is absolutely enough and beyond.
Could have a bad temperature sending unit. Like the one in the link.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3287517&cc=1431075&jsn=455
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3287517&cc=1431075&jsn=455
After going round n round for the last two weeks with strange temp. numbers, I finally got the E-fan to kick on with the A/C off. It took me two different times to burp the air bubbles out the system. Another big tell-tail was a soft hose, it needs to be really hard to the point you can’t make both sides touch each other. James was on the money again, thanks ! Dawa, the sensor was my next step to check, but all is good and temps fluctuate up and down like they should when driving. my homemade burping kit, gorilla tape and wallyworld funnel cut to fit lol ...
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