dude BEST thing you can do from my experience with work, is go pull behind a best buy that has a mobile install bay, and ask them the same exact questions. They'll tell you exactly what to get and I think its like 60 bucks to have it done professionally, or you can just get a parts list. Now I'm no audio guy so I'm just giving you my 2 cents, there are a lot of dudes on here that'll have a lot better advise for you.

 

You chose some real nice amps man. I owe what I know about audio to this site and the guys contributing to the audio section. I'm running two amps and what I'm doing is running a single run of 0 ga. from the batt. to a distrib. block, and since each amp calls for 4 ga., thats what I'm running from the block.

As for speaker wire length, go get some string and lay it out and measure. Thats all I lack since I don't want to reuse my stock wire.

If you need to drill through the firewall, just buy a firewall groumet.

 

run of 0 ga. from the batt. to a distrib. block, and since each amp calls for 4 ga., thats what I'm running from the block.

yah that!!! ^^^^ :lol:


also go ahead and get enough 4ga wire to do the big 3 upgrade while ur at it.......helps out a lot and an Optima battery if its in ur budget as well.....all highly recomended.

as far as length.......ummm i used a rockford fosgate 2 amp kit for mine and my amps are behind the back seat ( mono block and 4ch) in my crew cab ill check how much wire came with the kit.....better to have wire left over then wire not long enough

 

K thx. Did you have to drill through to make it fit?

 

whats a "big 3 upgrade"?

 

the "Big Three" upgrade means improving the current capacity of three cables: 1) alternator positive to battery positive, 2) battery negative to chassis, and 3) engine ground to chassis. Some people replace the factory wiring; others add additional cables to the factory wiring. This instruction is to add cables to existing OEM wiring.

 

nice set-up you got there.... cost you a pretty penny i bet... but yea 0 gauage to two 4 guages will be jjust fine and the big 4 is def. recommended.... and will your done we want pics!

 

:wavey:

 

First thing - the Big 3 upgrade

Second thing, there is a small grommet underneath the driver side part of the dash, that allows you to run wires from inside the cab into the engine bay. This grommet is actually about 2 inches in length, maybe 1 1/2 inches in width.

I run my power wire through there and then under the door sills to the back of my extended cab to my distribution block:

As for wire length, you can get a standard dual amp kit with all wires that you will need. Those wires should actually be longer than you need and will sound best if you trim them down to only your desired lengths.

 

I'll grab a yellow top optima. What size model will fit? Been searching around can't seem to find what will fit best.

I'll attempt the big 3 hopefully it isn't to hard I'm not the greatest at that sort of thing.

 

well your gunna have to get rid of you top plastic ram air for your batter thing thats for sure :lol:

 

What does that top piece do anyways? I've never seen a battery case have one like that.

You all been great help so far. I've got a lot ahead of me. So much to do all at once should be fun though.

 

engine bay dress up so u dont see a battery just their..oh and it has ram air :lol:

 

ok bare minimum for two amps totaling 900-1000 watts is 4Ga. wire, distribution block, rca cables, speaker wire in or around 12ga.

professional high quality install would run 0Ga. to 2farad capacitor, off the capcitor you run a 0Ga. ground and use the extra terminals to run 4Ga. ground and power to the amps. use high end rcas run on the opposite side of the power wire to avoid interreference. run 12ga. wires to the speakers and 10Ga. to the subs.

:edit: i was a certified installer at circuit city. (includes on site training and being sent out to directed eletronics for a professional installer course)