I´m sorry Corey but I´m a little bit confused with the design, doesn´t a shackle should look like this?

(just a sketch)

 

Yes you're correct, its a one piece bend design where the side will be folded from one piece and not welded from 1/4" thick steel

 

several people have made their own, shackles arent really what drives a combo lift price up though, its the torsion keys. my 2" lift shackles were only about $40, and powder coated, hard to beat that even making your own

 

:yeahthat: keys ain't cheap. Shackles relatively are.

 

Yeah, im looking into new keys also just trying to unstockify my truck

 

try cranking your stock keys...just sayin

 

:yeahthat:

 

I procured some welded shackles from another member for $50 shipped.


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How far can i crank my keys without having to do a balljoint flip or diff spacers? rkj, i have full access to a weld/fab/machine shop so making my own shackles really isnt an issue. I'm gonna be finishing a welded set tomorrow. I'm also going to cut out a non welded set.

 

rkj, i have full access to a weld/fab/machine shop so making my own shackles really isnt an issue.

I was simply providing a data point for how much (or how little) you are saving by taking a DIY approach.

If you have full fab capabilities, and time to spare, a set of shackles will cost almost nothing, depending on how you buy the steel.


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Steel's free only cost is time, im a votech student plenty of "scraps" laying around lol

 

that design looks pretty good. Im pretty much in the same boat as you, minus the school part. If i could give you one piece of advice though, it would be to get rid of the radius where youre going to bend it. it would be much easier to line up the bend if it was a 90 degree corner. and also you could probably give it a little more meat around the holes. better to over design than under design.

 

ya i would beef that up a bit, also might want to check your dimensions to account for bend allowances and be sure your dies will allow you to bend it.

 

I read your guy's posts this morning and did some redesign adding some more material around the holes (.125) to be exact and elongated the cross member by .5 to account for the bend, however i kept the radius's there and they came out great. Bent them using an iron worker(no heat application). throwing them on tomorrow. After this im going to drop the diff about .5-1 as i see needed to correct the new cv angle and possibly a BJ flip down the road here since it should add some additional lift. thanks everyone for being so helpful, pics soon

 

dont forget an alignment

 

My understanding is that a diff drop should not exceed 3/4" on stock bolts. I think somebody said they lowed it an inch but I can't remember. The SuspensionMaxx guys say longer bolts should be used for their thicker spacers, 3/4" is fine on stock bolts though.

Does your metal need to be hardened for your shackles? I don't know...I am asking. I don't know if un heat treated shackles will crack.

 

No.


"As the carbon percentage content rises, steel has the ability to become harder and stronger through heat treating, however it becomes less ductile"

your next question

ductility is a solid material's ability to deform under tensile stress


If it were a huge concern , switch to a HCS or SS

 

I dropped mine 1" on stock bolts. I used lock tight tho!

 

I thought that might have been you, I figured you would read and chime in.

What color loctite did you use? When I did mine I thoroughly cleaned the threads then use a bit of blue.