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How many miles on your I-5 motor? = Any major repairs?

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18K views 30 replies 28 participants last post by  Hoosier Rick  
#1 ·
How many miles on your I-5 motor? = Any major repairs?
 
#6 ·
256k on a 2008 LT.

Bought used with 141k 5 years ago. Oil and filter when light tells me to. Full synthetic w/ quality filter. Burn a couple quarts between changes. 1 and 3 cylinders are low in compression, but the other 3 make up for it. Just got a tune for this rig and the bitch runs kickass. I'd drive it anywhere!

No major repairs. Rear main seal, water pump, couple sensors is all in 5 years.
 
#8 ·
2005 Colorado i5. I have 67K on it (don't drive much anymore). Been using synthetic oil since I got her in 2012 - Mobile 1 at first and now Valvoline. Doesn't use a drop of oil. Never had any engine issues except for the common rattle on start-up. Love this truck.
 
#11 ·
04 z71 with 191k on it. Fuel trims are a bit off, and it rattles on startup. I suspect it needs a new cat. Also, she does burn oil. I have a head sitting here that I need to send out for a valve job. Just haven't gotten around to it quite yet.I did have to have the entire cooling system redone last year. Water pump/thermostat were both bad. Radiator supposedly had a small leak, but I've not seen any evidence of that, and it's still holding coolant just fine.

My last tank of gas, I averaged 19.7 MPG.
 
#12 ·
110,000 miles 2005 Z85 3.5 L. Head rebuild at 95k intake cam and several rockers at the same time, other wise just normal maintenance, dio oil at 5 to 6 k good oil filters. Since the head job I developed a cam speed tick at full temp, at idle and 6 exhaust lifters replace but that did not solve it. Replaced Cam solenoid, and both O2 sensors as maintenance.
 
#15 ·
2005 I5, ordered new, 260,000 miles and I put everyone of 'em on it. No major problems. Change oil and filter when "Oil Life" comes on with High Mile Mobil 1 Syn. 5w30 and AC PF61 filter. Replaced water pump and radiator at 200,000 miles and still rollin'.
Recently had oil pressure switch go bad, watched You Tube video of some bozo talkin' chit saying removal of RF Tire and fender well liner required to change it. BS. Looked under the hood, over the oil filter, there it was, removed with a small crescent, replaced, easy peasey. Can't rely on some people, need to look for yourself.
Great motor for general gettin' around, sure you could rough it up and tear it to hell if you wanted to, I prefer to take reasonable care of it and just ride.
 
#19 ·
I got a 2008 3.7 in August 2019 with 71,500 miles. Now its at 83,400 and no issues. Had a check engine light here for a week but could have been shitty 85 octane tanks of gas when I passed through Wyoming a couple weeks ago. Never skipped a beat. does rattle on startup tho, but I guess thats normal.
 
#22 ·
2005 crew cab Xtreme 3.5L made it to 260,222 miles before being totaled by a dodge ram. Engine, trans and G80 rear all intact and original. Used the truck as a daily work truck hauling 700+ lbs in the bed at all times. Also ran with heavy 20" wheels/tires. Never babied it, drove it hard. It burned a quart of oil every 5000 miles. Did full synthetic oil change and filter every 10k miles. Then did filter and top-off every 5k miles.
340884
 
#23 ·
140k miles and running better after changing the sparkplugs. From the air filter box to the throttle body, that big black box on top of the valve cover seems to have a tiny trace of oil. But, it was clean otherwise. It idles just about 550-600 RPM, from what that tachometer needle shows on the dash. That seems kind of low to me, from all vehicles I have ever owned. I did change the oil with full synthetic Castrol for high mileage vehicles. I had Jiffy Lube do a coolant replacement. I wouldn't recommend that. Whatever they did do, over pressurize the system or put the wrong type of coolant, caused the radiator to leak along the top tank seam. I replaced that with a new radiator and cap. This also helped me learn that the radiator shroud being able to come apart in three pieces, held together with special little clips, which I ended up losing one. No big deal, I was able to use a zip-tie to keep it together on the one missing clip.
 
#25 ·
The big black box on top you mentioned, the one you must remove to change spark plugs, it has a black rubber "Vent Hose" that comes off with it from the back side. It is about 4" long with bends on each end. Over time, with oil fumes passing thru it, it gets soft and may not plug in well at each end or can even develop a fold or hole in it. It needs to be somewhat rigid in order to fit on nipples at each end, as you can't guide it on by hand. Mine had developed a fold/hole in it, and felt mushy. I ordered one from Auto Zone, they list it as "Vent Hose", and had it the next day. Cost about $8. Small amount of oil fume had collected on the black box that lead me to investigate. When box was off I cleaned it and it is fixed. Idle is also much smoother. Sounds like your issue.
BTW - the hose has those bends in it, no way to take a straight piece of hose and improvise.
The replacement hose I purchased was a Doorman product.
In normal day to day operation, with a good hose, properly installed it should last and last. But when it gets old and soft and you remove it for spark plug changes, it might not do right upon the install.
Here is the AC Delco version of said hose:
Colorado Vent Hose