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Longer shocks in the front are not required. My fear would be longer front shocks will always be running in the compressed state.
If the shocks are progressively valved, you will not take full advantage of the shock absorbing properties. I don't know if Rancho's are progressive though.

If you need shocks now, just get some cheap shocks that work for your needs. It happens quite often, that "I want to eventually get a full lift" and doesn't happen. If you aren't lifting within 2 years lets say, just buy shocks now for today's truck. Otherwise, you will end up putting on a lift kit in the future and installed used shocks (essentially).

My feeling is that running the proper equipment now is more important than trying to save a few bucks at some point in the distant future.
 
This how to incorrect by a low shot for the rear end!! >:-( angry. 5+ hours and counting! :( damn exhaust pipe is very much in the way. And I can't move it!!
Can you take a picture about what you're talking about? I did this exact procedure with my 2006 Colorado back in 2007 with no problems clearing the exhaust.
 
Meh.. I got the rear shackles on and the back done. And I got my kit from rough country and it come with 2 tb bolt spacers and 2 front shock top spacers. So I but the tb spacers on with 1tight turn and I was almost an inch lower then stock. So I turned it 5 more times on each side and I'm back at stock front height (20.5", from middle hub the fender).

I'm confused I thought the spacer was supposed to lift me up but keep it the same. Any help from the pro's?!?! Should I take the spacer off and crank the hell out of them?

I'd like to be level with the back or be at 22.5" in the front at least. The back is Legit, I love it! Help!
 
I'm confused I thought the spacer was supposed to lift me up but keep it the same. Any help from the pro's?!?! Should I take the spacer off and crank the hell out of them?

I'd like to be level with the back or be at 22.5" in the front at least. The back is Legit, I love it! Help!
Huh? How can you you be lifted and keep it the same? Why buy parts if you want it the same? LOL

Get the tools back out and tighten the bolts until you are where you want it.

Pro Tip: Don't make the fender to ground clearance equal from front to back because the rear fender clearance is low. Measure the body at the lowest point to the ground. When the front of the body and the rear of the body (between the wheels) is level then you are level.

Drive it around the block, remeasure and make the necessary adjustments. Give a day or so....measure and adjust if necessary then call your favorite suspension shop for the alignment.

Pro Tip #2: Do not exceed 24.5" from center of wheel to bottom of fender lip (front). Well, a little is alright but don't go getting all extreme or you'll start breaking stuff.

The thing about torsion bars is there are no magic parts to give you a specific value lift, like 2" for example. To lift a truck to your desired height using torsion bars, you just turn the torsion key bolt until you reach the desired height.
 
Huh? How can you you be lifted and keep it the same? Why buy parts if you want it the same? LOL

Get the tools back out and tighten the bolts until you are where you want it.

Pro Tip: Don't make the fender to ground clearance equal from front to back because the rear fender clearance is low. Measure the body at the lowest point to the ground. When the front of the body and the rear of the body (between the wheels) is level then you are level.

Drive it around the block, remeasure and make the necessary adjustments. Give a day or so....measure and adjust if necessary then call your favorite suspension shop for the alignment.

Pro Tip #2: Do not exceed 24.5" from center of wheel to bottom of fender lip (front). Well, a little is alright but don't go getting all extreme or you'll start breaking stuff.

The thing about torsion bars is there are no magic parts to give you a specific value lift, like 2" for example. To lift a truck to your desired height using torsion bars, you just turn the torsion key bolt until you reach the desired height.

Listen to this guy, he knows whats up.
 
I'm confident you don't need to be talked through it. Just crank up the bolts on the torsion keys until you have your desired height. Then check the dimension from the center of your hub (wheel) to the bottom of the fender to be sure you aren't in the scary zone.

The only mission in life the spacers have is to allow you to turn the torsions bars further than the stock key limitations. Most will add keys to achieve this goal, but spacers do the same thing, just in a different way.

Good luck, post up if you have other questions.
 
Done. I'm riding at 23.00" from hub to fender. 3" gain. I had issues with the front differential. I could only get the 2 front bolts off. But both bolts facing the drivers door. I could not move them, with them at that angle. So I'm having a shop add the 1/2" spacers to the front differential on Monday with an alignment.
 
Cool, good deal.

What do you mean "the bolts facing the drivers door"?

Don't forget to check for settling. That's so odd that you have 3" off lift up front and sit at just 23". You must have had some serious sag to be at 20" to start.

What truck are you driving?
 
You must be pretty sagged for a Z71 then. I'm at least an inch taller on my Z85.

V8 bars will do nothing for you aside from making the ride more stiff. You can do it, but not sure what you're trying to achieve by doing so. To cure the sagging problem you can get about the same result by replacing with stock bars. If you are looking for a more stiff ride, a V8 bar will do that for you.
 
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