My first though was metal hitting where the bump stop goes, but at 23.5" that shouldn't be it.

Do you know where the bump stop is meant to be installed? If so, look for witness marks of an interference.
I can also think it's the ball joint hitting the limit, but again I don't believe you're lifted enough for the ball joint to be maxed.
Are you planning to do the ball joint flip tonight or tomorrow before your alignment? If yes, just do that work and test drive. If the clunk disappears, it may have been the control arm hitting because of no bump stop. I doubt it tough. Also, IF that is it, you won't get the bump stop installed due to no clearance. You will essentially be resting on the bump stop, at which time you lose suspension travel and the will can skip off the ground. Or very close to it anyway.

Have you double checked the measurement after a test drive just to make sure it really is that low?

There isn't much else that I can think of that is metal on metal contact.

 

I am doing the BJ flip before the alignment. I was going to skip the spacer and just do the flip, but since I'll be in there I might just fab a spacer for good measure. As of right now the UCA is at a dramatic angle, so it very well may be the ball joint.

I'm actually going to be lowering the front a tad from where it sits now. I drove the truck for a couple miles and measured and the front was at 23.5, but it's higher than the rear so I'm going to drop it a bit so it's level.

I should clarify about the UCA spacer. Smaxx sent me the full lift instructions with my diff spacers. I only purchased the diff spacers from them, not any bumpstops. In the instructions it mentions a UCA bumpstop. I'll find the instructions and post a picture of what I'm talking about.

Side note, 08Canyon you have been an extreme help for the entirety that I've owned this truck. Every question I ask, you have great information. Thank you good sir. I really appreciate the help.


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Oh, hold on. The fender gap of the rear fender well measures 3/4" less than the front when the truck is level.

Measure the pinch weld at the front o the cab and the rear to see how close it is.
I measure a little shy of 24" up front and like 23.25 in the rear and it's pretty level. I actually just lowered it a little about a month ago and can't remember what the final front resting place is.

With your fabricated bump stop, it should be made of some neoprene material, or something that won't compress and/or deteriorate.

I have the SMAXX kit so I know what you're referring to. I am at work, but I think I can snap a picture of my spacer installed if you need.

Doing the bj flip will net you marginal angle adjustment of the UCA, so don't expect a miracle. If the UCA is hitting, it may alleviate that. But otherwise, again, don't expect a miracle adjustment with the flip. It's generally used for 1) reduce chances of contact 2) allow vehicle to align.

Honestly, at 23.5" or less I can't see the need for the BJ flip.

Happy to help, thanks for the kind words.

 

If you get a chance to take a pic of the smax spacer for the control arm I'd greatly appreciate it.


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I actually already went out. All I have for a pointing device right now is a scale.
I've included a picture of the spacer (it measures closer to 5/8" to 3/4"). Hard to get in there right now without laying in the work parking lot. Notice there is a slight gap above the stop where the UCA will hit. If you are no where near this impact point, I say you have no interference there. Again, look for witness marks there. If you look closely enough you can see a slight indentation in the spacer from all the times my UCA smacked into the spacer from being cranked to tall.

Also, the other picture is just to show where I measure from when I determine the 'levelness'. Use the same measurement at the rear of the cab (is what I do anyway). I think I have enough view there to show a point of reference.

 

Here's a pic of mine as it sits right now.

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I'm not seeing any interference there. The UCA doesn't travel that far under normal driving conditions, such as down the road or hitting a speed bump in a parking lot.

 

Well I'll continue as planned for now. Make sure it's level per your advice, BJ flip, and alignment. I'll give everything a good once over when I'm in there tomorrow. I know my power steering rack bushings have some play. I don't think they'd make that kind of clank though. If I can reproduce the noise tomorrow after everything I'll get a video and post it up.


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Good luck! Hope it goes smoothly.

Did you have to do anything with your shocks? Double check the top mount if so...in case it hasn't properly seated with the rubber bushings in the mount.

 

I haven't touched the front shocks since they were put on a year ago. I know that seems hard to believe given how rusty they are in the picture but this Chicago snow/salt eats vehicles like crazy. I will give them a look over and make sure all is tight.

I'm honestly wondering if one of the ball joints on that side is bad. The truck has 90,000 miles on stock steering/suspension parts.


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Also, my upper control arm bushings look rather dry... The edges are starting to crack from age/weather.


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Look at the truck from the font, ball joints specifically. Staring at it from the front, is the ball joint stud leaning a lot towards the outboard side (wheel). It won't be vertical. if it is already steep and you can see it appears to be near the end of travel then it may be making the noise you hear when it clashes. That's probably hard to follow.

Your front end shop will (should) check for wear before they perform the alignment.

 

^ Yes it is. The ball joint does appear to be at a really bad angle. I'm hoping that's the problem.

I'm just brainstorming for things to check for tomorrow.

The shop does check for wear. They were the ones that alerted me to my worn out power steering rack bushings [emoji1303]


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I'll see if I can get a picture of how mine sits currently.Not sure if I can see it without laying under the truck

 

It is difficult to capture the angle, but this is mine. I am flipped and with a spacer so it will look a little different. But I don't believe it will make that much difference.....should be marginal at best I think?

I think at this point I am out of smarts.

 

I appreciate all the smarts you've contributed. I'll tear into it tomorrow morning and report back


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Jack the front of the truck up by the frame (chock the rear wheels of course) until both front tires are off the ground and the suspension is at full droop and see if anything is making contact.

Do you hear the clank sound when the suspension is cycling up or down?

 

GregDAP,

Yes it's only there if the suspension cycles a good amount. For instance I could get it to do it by slowly driving off a 4 inch curb repeatedly.


Update time!

Jacked the front of the truck up. At full droop the UCA does make contact. See pic.

When I first jacked the truck up on the frame I kicked the top of the tire and it made the "clank" noise I've been experiencing, but only once. That led me to think upper ball joint was binding and the clank was it releasing pressure. I could repeat it by lowering the truck, raising it again, and kicking the upper part of the tire. Took the tire and upper ball joint off and it was about as loose as a video game joy stick so I replaced with the MOOG problem solver joints. I did do the flip, but without a spacer. Both sides got them for good measure. I'll do lowers soon, I just didn't have time before the alignment appointment.

I re-measured after I did the ball joints. Front passenger was 23.25in. Front driver was 23.75inches. Odd. It was 23.5 yesterday. Lowered the driver side a good 1.5 turns (I would turn it 1/2 way and then take it for a drive to settle) before I saw any adjustment on the driver side measurements. I wonder if I had it cranked too high and it was binding. Anyway, lowered the front down so they both measure 23.25. It's at the shop right now. I'll report back post alignment. The front end seems to be less bouncy now that I lowered the driver side.


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Good for you!
Nice job. And good troubleshooting.

 

Truck aligned just fine. Camber wasn't off at all. Toe needed to be adjusted but all is basically perfect. Rides great, clunk is gone from what I can tell.

For those that read this through searches, a quick comment on ride quality post-TB crank. I wouldn't call it "harsh" per say. The ride is definitely firmer, but it rides more like I think a truck would, not a car. I personally like it.


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Well at least you figured it out. After you get it aligned check it at full droop again and make sure you have no metal to metal contact. The smaxx bump stops are pretty hard. I had them when I was cranked and still cracked my drivers side upper a arm, but Ioff roaded a lot.