Welcome to the Nation.

Assuming that by "neutral safety switch" you are referring to the clutch pedal switch. If you hear something 'click' it is probably either the starter relay or the starter solenoid. That would indicate that any safety switches in the circuit would be closed.

Have you checked for battery voltage at the motor (large) terminal of the starter, using the engine block for ground? Should have power at all times.

Heve you checked for battery voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the ignition key is moved to 'start' using the engine block for ground?

 

The click seems to be coming from my fuse box. I don't hear anything past that but I jumped my starter relay and the starter works so should I throw a new relay in it to be safe or?

 

What methoid did you use to jump the starter relay? Have you tried swapping the relay with one of the others with the same part number?

 

I used just a singe wire in a u-shape to connect the switched and constant voltage and yes I've switched a couple of them around with no luck

 

It sounds like you checked the power side of the relay, but not the control side.

You know which starter relay terminal, in the fuse box, has battery voltage at all times. That terminal, and the one diagonal opposite of it, is the power circuit, going to the starter solenoid.

To check the control side of the relay, check for voltage between the other two relay terminals in the fuse box, with the clutch pedal depressed and the key in 'start'. The PCM provides the ground for the control circuit.

Use caution when probing terminals in the fuse box. The terminals are female and spreading them will cause problems with the contacts of the relays/fuses.

 

OKay i tested the controll side, not getting any reading. Should I be? Put both ends of test lead into each terminal diatonal from each other

 

This problem happened after bleeding the clutch. Did you do anything around the clutch pedal that might have affected the switch. Maybe take a look around there. The clutch start switch is the lower one on the pedal bracket, facing aft. It will have 2 wires, a Pink and a Dark Green. If you don't see anything obvious, disconnect the connector and short across the two terminals in the connector. See if anything changes.

If you have the ignition switch and clutch pedal positioned as I posted, and probed the correct terminals, you should have 12 volts.

The power for the control side of the relay comes from the RUN/Crank relay. The circuit goes through the IGN fuse and the clutch switch, to the relay. The circuit goes from the start relay to the PCM. When the key is turned to 'start' the PCM grounds the circuit and the relay closes.

Locate the IGN fuse. Turn the ignition switch to the 'run' position. Attach the black meter lead to the battery negative post. With the red lead, probe both of the contacts on top of the IGN fuse. There should be 12 volts at both contaact points on the fuse.

Do you get no voltage at the fuse?
Do you get voltage only on one contact of the fuse?
Do you get voltage on both contacts of the fuse?

 

Ok so I get voltage out of the right side but not left on the IGN fuse

 

Try replacing the fuse.

 

Ok so I replaced the fuse and after checking the controll side of the relay (red probe in terminal and black probe on battery ground) I get nothing while doing anything. Turning the key all the way forward while pushing the clutch in.

 

Back to the fuse. Do you now get battery voltage to both contacts in the fuse?

If you have battery voltage at both contacts of the fuse, go to the clutch switch, as mentioned in the first paragraph in Post #8. Remove the connector. Verify that it has two wires, a Pink and a Dark Green.

Locate a good ground under the instrument panel and connect the black meter lead. Probe the terminal, in the connector, with the Pink wire using the red meter lead. With the ignition switch in the 'start' position, you should find 12 volts. You don't need to move the clutch. If there is no voltage at the Pink wire, there is an open in the wire between that point and the fuse.

If you have 12 volts at the pink wire, leave the connector off and go to the switch. Select the resistance (Ohms) scale on the meter. Probe the two terminals in the switch with the two meter leads. Without moving the clutch pedal the meter should read 'OL'. When you push the clutch pedal down the meter reading should be '0'. If the meter does not go to '0', with the clutch depressed, there is an issue with the switch.

Post what you find.

 

Ok so (sorry it took me a sec to get back) I checked the connecter and switch. I'm getting 12 volts from the connector but the switch only shows me a 1 on my multi-meter no matter what I do.

And yes the fuse now gets voltage on both terminals

 

Key off. Pink and Dark Green wires verified at the connector.

With the meter set to OHMS the reading should be OL. When you see OL, touch the meter probes together. The reading should go to 0 or close to it.

Now when you probe the two terminals in the switch itself, you should get a OL reading. Probing the switch with the clutch pedal pushed down should give a 0 reading, or close to it.

If you are still getting a 1 ohm reading with the clutch pedal up there is an issue with the switch.

 

Also, you had a blown fuse. Fuses don't just blow for no reason. Quality ones, anyway.

 

A little late but for all those no crank issues try adding a ground between the block and the chassis for what ever reason these trucks will loose ground , good luck and i hope this helps.