Looks like you have a 2007, the filter and regulator are all integrated into the pump. Only 2004 and 2005 have an external filter and a regulator under the hood

Top of the fuel tank around where the pump sits is a common leak point

 

Greg Thanks!
Guess that's why I didn't see that big silver regulator under the hood, and yeah trying to get the post right, forgot to mention year, engine size etc. Thought that would be auto - generated after I filled out my profile. Thanks again, you've saved me from hunting for a non existent part!

 

i can say i had this smell for a while but not super strong, in the last 3 days it was really bad. i ended up pulling my tank out and bam rusted out fuel pump causing a leak. im lucky the tank tabs stayed in tack but they look rusted i hope they hold up. its impossible to find a good tank in canada to much salt on the roads.

i have a 2010, it started to leak bad when the truck was in idle and on a full tank. once i got to half tank there was no real leak just a bad smell.

 

Thanks. I'm hunting parts now. All I can see is a small leak, nothing seems to be spurting out violently. I'll keep my tank filled less than a 1/2 until I can move forward on this repair.

 

Greg Looks like the problem's where you said it would be, just like everyone else. Based on experience, should I just get a gas tank, pump, etc. and just assume it's completely rotted out? A bunch available through salvage, if I'm contacting a yard, what do I specifically need to ask them about condition of tank in regards to the integrated metal seal that rots out? I tried to attach photos to this message, and I'm doing something wrong. Here's a link to picture -
https://www.deviantart.com/mondobizzarro/art/Fuel-Pump-801823547?ga_submit_new=10:1560614190

Also, and this may sound like a stupid question, but with what seems like a really small leak, how safe am I still driving?

 

What parts should I have on hand for this job, if I want it to be one & done?
I'd rather buy stuff and return unused, than end up not having something I need.
I've only got one vehicle, so once it's apart I'm stuck.

 

https://youtu.be/yztJ-3HO8LA

https://youtu.be/IxLXEXRIoL4

https://youtu.be/pkYCsniQ-08

https://youtu.be/63E_qshfe1o

 

There is few vids on YouTube about replacing the tank

 

Thanks Greg! I will get this figured out, and not be another fireball on the shoulder of RT 80.
Wish I could tell in advance whether I need a new gas tank.

 

The problem that most of the time requires a fuel tank replacement is severe corrosion of the retainers for the fuel pump locking ring. These metal retainers are molded into the top of the tank and cannot be replaced. Fuel tanks for these trucks are hard to come by (part number 19149348) and a new one will set you back about a grand. Used ones, especially from your area will probably have the same problem.

You have an Extended Cab so should be able to get a fairly good look at the top of the pump by looking through the wheel opening. From that location you can also check the lower connection of the filler tube where it attaches to the tank.

You might want to try to determine whether you would want to lift one side of the bed or drop the fuel tank for access, if the need arises. There could be issues with either way. The bed mount bolts might be very difficult to remove due to corrosion, as well as the strap mounts for the tank. One consideration for lifting the bed is that any fuel leaks could be identified without disturbing the connections and any repairs can be confirmed with the plumbing easily accessible.

 

Thanks for the advice, will try to lift bed to get a better idea of what those tabs for the retaining ring look like. Top of fuel pump badly corroded, same with line coming out of pump that faces towards cab/front. Meanwhile there are 6 salvage yards within 15 miles of me with gas tanks in stock, if need be, hopefully one will be intact.

 

so i did mine today, i didn't have to replace the tank. the rust cleaned up with a wire brush. i loaded the damn thing with grease once it was all on, it should last another 10 years or more lol!!

i hope you have luck with yours, its not a hard job just a pain in the ass when you don't have the lock ring tool.

 

Thanks Man, sounds a little more encouraging. I'm going back and forth between just getting a new salvage tank, and having it all set up to go, when I drop the old one, or doing what you did. I'm kind of pressed for time.

 

I took the plastic wheel well out, took a pic with phone (no selfie stick) and one of my friends said "Your fuel pump is now a fuel lump!" The top of the pump is pretty rusted out. I'm getting my parts together, and will attempt to fix over weekend, supposed to stop raining. I'm going to run the tank pretty dry, or siphon it out before I begin. I've seen a few people pivot the bed up on one side, I'm going to try that first to see what kind of shape that mounting hardware's in, that way if need be I can still have the truck to go to a salvage yard if need be. I don't know if it makes sense to change the pump without dropping the tank, if it looks easy I may try that too.

 

I dropped the tank a bunch of times on my last colorado due to tab issue. IMHO unless your bed hardware is super clean and rust free dropping the tank is the easiest way. Im in maine and truck came from canada so much like my tank tabs the bed hardware was hosed. if you have ramps tank drop can be done with the rear tires up on the ramps, just make sure ramp doesn't stick too far by inner edge of drivers side tire. trick is you need to lower the tank enough so you can reach above it and disconnect electrical wires, which is very tough to do while holding the tank. I used an ATV lift as that let me control the level nicely, and really helped with reinstall. an good friend or an appropriate height "deadman" would also do the trick.

 

Thanks everybody! New fuel pump in, evap code cleared.
I opted for removing the bed to do the work (Felt like I'd have an easier time removing all the connections if I could see and access them), rust on the sending unit made removal of lines very difficult (I didn't know there were special tools for fuel line clips, luckily neighbor had a set) and removing the retaining ring was damn near impossible, without cutting up, and prying out 1/2 of it, until I could hammer the rest off. Those 8 locking tabs are attached to another ring inset in the gas tank, and the two rings were fused together.
Job done without dropping the tank.

That said, now that I saw the relative ease of bed removal, makes me wonder if I couldn't build a lightweight camper for my truck.