Were you adding more DOT 3 brake fluid to the master cylinder as you went along?

Did a brake job on a 05 355 Z71 yesterday and no issues to speak of.

 

I did only add dot3 as i did it....Did you have to bleed your brakes several times?

 

I do each wheel like 3 or 4 times and sometimes I loosen the banjo fittings to bleed it because air likes to get trapped in them. The only things you could really have go wrong are not bleeding them correctly or you have a loose fitting or leak. If your truck is older then you may need to rebuild the calipers, but most calipers go 10 years and farther now so I don't really think that is a possibility.

 

I've no clue what all the talk about the brake lines is about if you just did your pads. That being said, you did pump the brake numerous times after you did it to reseat the pistons from when you installed the new pads I assume?

I know it's an obvious one but I did something similar the first time I did a brake job and almost put the car into a tree because I had almost zero braking lol

 

Well I do have only about 10% braking power after bleeding plenty of plenty of times....I tried to reset the pistons by pumping them...is there anyway to still do that??

Thanks all

 

Yeah you need to bleed your brakelines for sure!

This is an easy job!

Start on the RR > LR > RF > finish with the LF.

 

Is there any basis behind the order you bleed them? I was doing RR>LF>LR>RF...and it would get better over time but not much......also after I press the brake pedal down the first time not much pressure...the second and third times pressing while I drive it is alot better...

Thanks again

 

You start at the corner that further away from the master cylinder and work your way to it!

 

Start with the one furthest from your master cylinder, usually your passenger rear, then move in from farthest to closest. I generally gravity bleed, takes a little longer, but less work. Put a hose on the bleed screw take it up higher than the caliper, but lower than the master cylinder, drop it back down into a bottle where the end of the hose is submerged in brake fluid. Open the bleeder screw. Then keep and eye on your reservoir level, and giving your calipers a whack with a rubber mallet to dislodge any air bubbles. Works great, and one benefit is you will not push the plunger in the M/C out of its wear are in travel and suck any crap back in.

 

I picked one of these up after seeing it on the Powerblock one morning!

Great way to do a DOT 3 brakefluid flush and bleed...a one person job and super easy!

Motive Products powerbleeder!

Here is the link for the one I bought: Will work on 355s!

Motive Products Shopping Cart

 

you might need to bleed your brakes

and have you checked every single brak line the whole way through

cause i was working on a truck yesterdaya nd a leak was from the master cylinder

 

Just wondering why if you were just changing the pads why did you take the calipers off the brake lines?

 

I'm getting the same thing. But I replaced calipers, cylinders, pads,rotors, shoes, drums, and put stainless steel braided lines on. I'm also getting wicked bad brake chatter.

 

If it is chattering your rotors maybe warped. I see you put new rotors on but you have a greater chance of a warp rotor when new out of the box than using the old ones. Pull thr rotors off and get them trued.

 

Ok, first off if you did NOT remove the lines then you should NOT have any air in the lines unless you did before. Since you are not breaking ANY connections, you should not have any air inside the hose's. So bleeding should not have been needed. Raise the front off the ground, remove wheels, and have a friend try to press teh brakes with truck running and you see if you can turn EITHER of the two front wheels with a bar in between the lug bolts. IF you can turn the driver's side or passenger and not the other side, then pull that caliper and then have him press it again. Once he does it should close up. If it does not then there's your problem. You had a bad caliper piston. Which of course will cause yoru problem. Only thing is...when piston's go they normally tend to leak. So....wonder why its not. I have seen plenty of them not leak..they just let fluid flow by the piston and don't build any pressure.

HOW did you compress the caliper? Did you go slow and use a C clamp? Or did you use a rod and yoru body weight or what?

 

That being said, once you did try to bleed the lines you COULD have introduced air in them then...so after you check the caliper's you MAY need to do a good bleed on them then.

Oh, and screw for inspection reasons...brakes you need more than any thing else bro! LOL

 

http://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-brake-system-works

may help...

 

Actually Brake fluid absorbs water out of air and if this watering fluid enters to caliper it will produce air..which makes brake spongy. So you need to thoroughly bleed brakes .Get all the old fluid out till you see clear fluid that you are pouring into the master cylinder reservoir...