look at this thread:

http://www.355nation.net/forum/lifting/60304-sway-bar-disconnects-4x4-2.html

hellwig makes a longer set that you can use and just keep the swaybar in the factory position; the same way that skyjacker does.

 

The swaybar has a drop bracket built into the rancho lift kit that forces it to move and be flipped - I like the idea of the longer disconnects but I don't see anyone on that thread using it combo'd up with a rancho lift, just with cranks and stock mounting anyway.

It's more in the way because of the drop brackets than it is because of the flip.

 

Call skyjacker and buy their sway bar mounts from their 4" kit. They bolt to the control arm so the sway bar stays in the stock position and you use the stock end links.

 

Skyjacker sway mounts are a joke. I couldn't run mine with any crank, even without crank while turning at droop the sway ends smack the spindle. Longer links would be ideal instead of a 90 degree 4" hard extension that leans with the LCA

 

You must have had something messed up(probably too much caster), I ran mine about 30,000 miles before I took the sway bar off and they didn't touch the spindle once. they had about 1/4" clearance from the spindle. I'm also cranked as far as the upper ball joints allow over the 4" lift.

 

Idk when I posted about it several others have had the same issue. I had the truck in spec on alignment and only about 1.5" crank and it still slapped so I just ripped the whole thing off

 

....thats why i said to use the hellwig ones. they are adjustable. you can keep the swaybar in the stock location and you dont need to use the drop brackets then. plus you can have quick disconnects.

 

Got pics? Looks to me (without pulling it apart) that the swaybar will whack the relocated LCA when it flexes if it goes back to stock, regardless of what end links you use.

 

i dont have any right now, but ill try to get one for you.

 

Just take the sway bar off then. It's not that big of a difference without it, you just get a little more body roll. Or cut the skid plate where it hits. Or sell the skid plate and say fuck it and make some money back to pay for part of the lift. I don't have any skid plates and really haven't needed them as long as you are smart with approach offroad.

 

Can't remove the swaybar because of Allstate in ny, can't cut the skid plate because there would be half a skid plate left.

Going to end up selling the front plate and maybe the diff plate as well, but kinda want a better solution than "go without" or "should have used skyjacker".

Skid plates are like drivers licenses and guns. You don't need it till you need it, and then you better have it.

 

I didn't say should have used skyjacker, I said call them and order the sway bar endlink mounts they have because they offer individual pieces of the lift it's just a little pricey. But if you can't use the sway bar in the stock location then that isn't an option.

As far as removing the sway bar you mean allstate as in an insurance company? Plenty of people remove sway bars and I have never heard of any claim denied for not having one, some vehicles don't even come factory equipped with them. If you tell them then that's just plain stupid.

As far as the skid plate, it's only sheet aluminum and anything that is really susceptible to damage now has 2 crossmembers underneath it and the skid plate isn't going to really do anything protect them. I've had my truck 8 years and 5 of them have been lifted and wheeled regularly with no skid plate and I have only bent tie rods and worn out ball joints.

 

I didn't say should have used skyjacker, I said call them and order the sway bar endlink mounts they have because they offer individual pieces of the lift it's just a little pricey. But if you can't use the sway bar in the stock location then that isn't an option.

no no not you on this, people have told me that skyjacker lets the superskidz plate mount right up no problem.

As far as removing the sway bar you mean allstate as in an insurance company? Plenty of people remove sway bars and I have never heard of any claim denied for not having one, some vehicles don't even come factory equipped with them. If you tell them then that's just plain stupid.

They consider it factory installed safety equipment and told me if I get in an on-road accident without it they won't pay for damages.

As far as the skid plate, it's only sheet aluminum and anything that is really susceptible to damage now has 2 crossmembers underneath it and the skid plate isn't going to really do anything protect them. I've had my truck 8 years and 5 of them have been lifted and wheeled regularly with no skid plate and I have only bent tie rods and worn out ball joints.

The bottom half of our front bumpers are just plastic that isn't really going to stop anything unless it hits a frame rail on the way under. The skid plate can help keep your radiator and transmission lines intact during an animal hit (which is more what I worry about in upstate NY) and I have an external transmission filter and cooler installed so I have lines that used to be covered by a skid plate now exposed during something like that.

I'm not as familiar with the Rancho kit's swaybar setup, but I'd be surprised if nobody has installed Superskidz with Rancho.

I had to add some spacers and install some blocks with tapped holes to get the Skidz to work with my Skyjacker kit, but it did not require any serious re-engineering.

Rancho kit is angled and there are no points to use to attach the skid plate under the crossmember. The people who have used the skid plate with Rancho have mounted it under the drop crossmember to the original factory mount points - so if you hit something and it works it's hitting your crossmember as you run it over.

Their's relocates the whole sway bar down 4". Seems like it would be easy enough to just put the sway bar back on the frame how it was stock and run 4" longer sway links like the other guy had said. Personally I hated how mine drove with the sway bar, with any crank the truck had no give and rode rough as crap. Sway bar off and it was much better.

I might try to mess with it today and see what I can do about getting it re-bent to dodge the swaybar how it is now - I was really hoping someone had done it the right way and had a solution, I really like my plates and bought the set of 3 back in the day when they were $1k+ for the set.

I appreciate the feedback guys, gonna try to mess with a few different options and see what I can get in line.

 

I'm not as familiar with the Rancho kit's swaybar setup, but I'd be surprised if nobody has installed Superskidz with Rancho.

I had to add some spacers and install some blocks with tapped holes to get the Skidz to work with my Skyjacker kit, but it did not require any serious re-engineering.

 

Their's relocates the whole sway bar down 4". Seems like it would be easy enough to just put the sway bar back on the frame how it was stock and run 4" longer sway links like the other guy had said. Personally I hated how mine drove with the sway bar, with any crank the truck had no give and rode rough as crap. Sway bar off and it was much better.

 

Longer links with the bar in stock location would be much more simple and cheaper than replacing the skids

 

agreed, just want to make sure I don't f anything up.

 

There's a how to on the adjustable links with part numbers and everything to do it right. Dents made it a long time ago.

 

I think I'm just going to run my front hitch with the skid shield insert and get a factory plastic one until I can get one custom made.

Going to sell my superskidz, $400 for the front pair since I can't use them anymore. I'm keeping my transfer case skid.

 

Next time I swing by my mom's place I will look and see if I have my stock skid plate. If my stepdad didn't toss it after I moved out, it's yours for whatever the shipping cost is.

 

I appreciate it man, but I actually ordered it new off amazon with free shipping for $60. Hard to argue that.

 

I haven't figured out a way to get my skids to work with the Rancho yet either. Once I get the exhaust bolted back up Monday I plan on doing a little fabricating for the differential plate. The front one won't bolt to the Rancho crossmember without being extended but i might just put it back in the stock spot since the cm is pretty beefy anyway. I'll let you know if i figure anything out with them.

 

Thanks dude!

Already sold my front diff skid, still have the front superskidz in my garage waiting to sell. Installed my front Curt hitch receiver with a plate insert to protect my transmission lines from the external filter and cooler - but a skid plate would be preferred.