Can you hear a clicking? Starter?

 

grab a meter, when you turn to start there should be at least 14 volts at the starter. If there is and starter doesn't grab replace it, if there's no voltage it's either wiring, bcm, or the ignition switch.

 

Why not check the ign fuse before you start doing all that...:shrug:

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^ Yeah, that...^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

same thing happened to me....GM Roadside sent a tow truck to drag me to the stealership. He boosted me and it started...but the anti-theft light came on...So I drove to the dealer, since I still have warranty, thinking it would be a quick reset. Two days later, got a new battery and a long printout of their work. Seems they had to chase bad grounds,(they called it "Ghosts in the Machine" and laughed) which killed the battery. BTW, resetting the anti-theft requires BOTH ignition keys, if you come to that

 

There is no clicking other than my headlight relay turning on when I turn the key. It clicks on and then clicks off when I turn the key.

As for checking it, its -40 outside and all my tools are locked up at work 15km away.

Boosting does not help as I tried that already.

 

After you check your fuse.For future problems if any a charging system load test battery meter saves a lot of guessing, around$50 bucks autozone.Battery has to be fully charged before testing.

 

Do you have a stick or automatic? The clutch safety interlock switch could be bad if you've got a stick. It's used to prevent the engine from turning over with the key if the clutch pedal is not pushed in.

 

Its an auto.

I had my truck in at the shop and they said there was a lot of moisture under the relays. It dried up and started but they never cleard the P0017 crank sensor code. I cleared it at work and now it is doing it all over again.

 

Ok, BINGO! Your relay is not making contact brother. Simple as that. IF you ONLY hear the light relay click over, and do NOT hear the fuel pump, AND they said there was water under the relays and since drying them out it fired right up...I would go in teh fuse box, pull the fuel pump relay and check it...hell i bet just moving it a bit would get you started. try that and see what happens. Pull it also and since there was water...check to see if you have any corrosion under there. Sucks I know its cold out...but better to get her fixed now and under control, then be out later with family, kids, date whatever and have it happen.

ONCE you are under there, also pour in some alchol or electric parts cleaner...anything that will disperse water, BUT not leave a oily film such as WD40...don't spray on anything like that. Hell, even finger nail polish will work. And DISCONNECT the battery first for obvious reasons...lol. Spray it in there...wait a few minutes...then hook everything back up and hopefully it will be good. Keep us posted brother, we got cha covered man!

 

The starter my be frozen if it's that cold. moisture and cold = ice. this happened to
my S10 a few years back. would not start, towed to the shop under carriage iced up
from snow, thawed out, started right up.

 

Well I do believe that there is a freezing problem. I pulled it into the shop at work with the forklift, it sat there for 30 min and fired right up. I do not think its the starter as it should start after a while?

Ok, BINGO! Your relay is not making contact brother. Simple as that. IF you ONLY hear the light relay click over, and do NOT hear the fuel pump, AND they said there was water under the relays and since drying them out it fired right up...I would go in teh fuse box, pull the fuel pump relay and check it...hell i bet just moving it a bit would get you started. try that and see what happens. Pull it also and since there was water...check to see if you have any corrosion under there. Sucks I know its cold out...but better to get her fixed now and under control, then be out later with family, kids, date whatever and have it happen.

I don't think that the moisture and drying out had anything to do with it as it was sitting in their shop for an hour and it started. Same thing is happening to me. Even when I was in the fuse panel I did not notice any moisture under the relays. Not sure if they are pulling monkeys out of my ass just for fun but a truck that is not starting is not fun.

They also said that a cell in the battery was gone so i replaced the battery with a new one and nothing.

 

Well I do believe that there is a freezing problem. I pulled it into the shop at work with the forklift, it sat there for 30 min and fired right up. I do not think its the starter as it should start after a while?



I don't think that the moisture and drying out had anything to do with it as it was sitting in their shop for an hour and it started. Same thing is happening to me. Even when I was in the fuse panel I did not notice any moisture under the relays. Not sure if they are pulling monkeys out of my ass just for fun but a truck that is not starting is not fun.

They also said that a cell in the battery was gone so i replaced the battery with a new one and nothing.

Man to be honest, your confusing the hell outta me.

You say the same thing happened to you??? And that you don't think the moisture has anything to do with it, yet you said plain out that the engine sat in a warm area, and she started after an hour. I qouted you the first time, and now I am replying to you again. But it really seems like I am talking to two different people. LOL

If the weather is able to stop your truck from starting or even turning over..and teh battery is good, then the ONLY logical thing left is either the ecm...OR a fuel system related issue like the ign. relay. :shrug:

 

I know I am confusing as hell as I am frustrated beyond belief right now.

I was only saying the moisture thing as its -30 here right now. Having the truck sit in the shop at work for 30 min and it start right after that does not make any sense to me. the truck was still freezing cold when it was able to start.

 

Does anyone think that maybe the remote car starter is causing problems?

 

I had a similar problem with my 2005 3.5L z71 canyon with the exception of freezing weather (not much of that here in FL) and after trouble shooting relays and fuses to no avail, i found an article about the "Hall effect sensor" a sensor on the opposite side of the ignition switch as the key. this sensor can be taken off with 2 screws and a little wiggling of the key it popped right off. there is a plastic plate on the top of this sensor that can be taken off (WITH EXTREME CAUTION!!!) as to not damage it. That contains a magnet witch is essential to starting the truck. Try spraying Quick Dry electronic parts cleaner inside the small holes and then letting it dry. then put it back together and see if that helps. I did that today and so far it has started fine.

 

read my thread. has everything you need to know about getting your truck fixed.


http://www.355nation.net/forum/engines-performance-tech-questions/80633-truck-not-cranking-starting-resolved-pg-4-a.html

 

I just read yours and wish i would have had that these last couple days haha.
sunday night i took out my starter and then had to stop working due to rain, yesterday i put the new starter in and the first few times it would crank up just like new and then it quit and would only occasionally start. i went through the fuse box and other wires troubleshooting for electrical issues, couldnt find any. Then read a small article about that round black module you mentioned and i guess its called a ??Hall effect sensor?? idk how accurate that is. sprayed electrical parts cleaner from NAPA in it and it seemed to start fine after that until i went to leave work for lunch today. So i figured that little module was the root of my issue and i couldnt find it anywhere online so i bought a whole new BWD ignition switch from advance and just replaced the module instead of the whole switch so far ive been able to crank it up but we will see what the next few days hold. Nothing has been done to the passlock on my truck.

 

Good morning, just joined this form. I know I am beating a dead horse here, but I need some help. I have been reading the post on this issue and still having problems, I am about ready to pull my hair out lol. I have 09 colorado automatic 2.9L. I have put 3 ignition switches in so far and still nothing. I just purchased this truck about a month ago now. It has been dead in the water ever since i drove it to the house. I just assumed it was this pass lock giving me problems, but since i have put 3 ignition switches on it has only cranked up twice. I let it run for a little bit turn it off and no start again. I did read that if you cut the blue/white wire it would bypass this pass lock any truth to this. I really need some help here this is a good little truck and would love to keep it but now I just don't know. Any guidance would greatly appreciated

 

What troubleshooting have you done, so far? Have you had the battery tested, cleaned the battery connections, checked the wiring connections at the starter, checked for voltage at the starter, etc.

The PassLock System does not prevent the starter from operating.

 

I have not had the battery tested but have had a battery tender on it to keep it charged up. the terminals are clean, I have not checked the wiring connections at the starter i am min the process of removing the intake to get to the starter and check the wires and connections. I have to purchase a voltage meter to check for voltage also. these are my next steps. I feel better now that the pass lock doesn't prevent the starter from turning over. I did notice when i was recording the key it would never turn over. and thanks cart7881 for replying. It is some relief that it maybe something else than the pass lock. since i have changed the ignition switch out 3 times.

 

Is the replacement ignition switch OEM or aftermarket? Why did you replace it three times? Did you do a security relearn after replacing the switch?

You might want to have the battery load tested. Or at least check the voltage while cranking the engine.

 

I did it thinking that was the problem. but after the third one and just two starts it can not be the pass lock. The first 2 where standard products the last one was ac delco. even with the engine not turning over will the battery still load test?

 

may go get me a new battery anyway, the parts house has blemish ones which are new but only 45 bucks instead of a 100.00

 

The battery can be load tested out of the truck. Any auto parts store (AutoZone/O'Reilly's) can do it.

 

UPDATE:
Pulled the battery out and was about to go test it, then remember i had a tester in the shop a mall cheap one but it works, battery was showing 100%. re cleaned all terminals and connectors. Pulled driver tire off removed inner fender plastic to get to starter. know this is an old trick but still tried it. took long rod and tapped on starter and solenoid. also played with the fuse box and relays swapped all relays around that fit the starter relay. It then cranked up, let it run for a little bit shut it off and no start after that. supper was ready so went and ate supper and cleared my head. Went back out and was looking at the fuse box again, thinking i have an electrical problem. I noticed the starter relay did not fit as snug as the others. I bent in the prongs on the relay and put it back in. so far it has cranked the 6 out of 6 times I have tried since I done that to the relay. I am thinking I may have fixed my problem, I will try again tomorrow,and if so on to the next. Fuel gauge not working. Want to thank all you helped out. I will be getting new relay also.

 

Good troubleshooting. Keep us posted.

 

I don't know if it's the same issue or not but I have a 2012 Colorado and just swapped the transmission. Didn't touch any thing to do with starting or any of that and but it won't start now. Sometimes dash lights come on but nothing. New battery nothing. Starter is good had it checked. Just weird I can't get it to start. Anyone know what is wrong by chance

 

If the engine started normally prior to the transmission change, maybe the problem is associated with the transmission. The shift mechanism/switches could be out of adjustment. Engine won't start if switches aren't in neutral or park. Is the replacement transmission the same year/model as the original? 4L60-E transmissions have a lot of different configurations.