well,I wish I could help but Im a lil confused about what will tuck too,cause on street source I found a truck that has a +25 offset and he didnt even narrow the rear axle,but on another website I saw someone who said a +43 offset is what you need.I would also like to find out what all you guys are running!

 

hopefully they will tuck cuz i'm baggin it within a couple months.

 

Nope...They won't, they will rub.

I have a +40mm that clears within a 1/8"....

I am lower and my wheels do go deeper in the fender but from what I see laying frame a +30 will rub need atleast a +40mm to be on the safe side.

 

damn....I'm not actually even 100% sure if that is the offset It's whatever the new fullsize chevy's are

 

Very very few wheels come in a 20X8.5 with a +40mm offset.

Normally you would have to go with billet. I unfortunately don't have the chingy right now for billet so I am stuck with chrome.

 

haha actually I just checked on the VooDoo407 and it is a 20X8.5 +40 mm offset

 

Same wheels I got! Nice choice

 

That will work :thumbup:

 

So,lancers you do not rub with your factory wheels?If not what offset and width are they?

 

sweet i checked several sites and they all say that the 6X5.5 bolt pattern is +40mm offset so that makes me pretty damn excited haha

 

Hell yeah they rubbed like a bitch....

I just upgraded to these. Tires will be in tomorrow.

Boss 313s +40mm

Yeah I saw alot of sites that said that to freeman. When I went to order or call they made them in a +40mm but not in a 6x5.5 with a 100mm bore....

You may find some though bro, I just had hell.

 

I've already got the wheels on my truck I made sure when i bought them that they would sit under the body cuz my old 20's didn't at all they stuck out about an inch the place i got them from said they were the same offset as new chevy's and it was a lot higher then the ones i had before and they were +20mm so i'm almost certain mine are in fact a +40mm so hopefully i'm good

 

i have 20x8.5" wheels with +38mm and i'm getting my rear axle narrowed just to be safe. i'm not going to bodydrop the truck (like lance did) but i want it to lay flat on the ground when it's done, and be able to drive like that without any rubbing. why not get your rearend narrowed, then you would have a bunch of different wheels to choose from.

 

these wheels?

are +31mm

 

Those would look sooo good on our trucks....



Nice wheels, Lancers!:355:

 

I'm starting to think that my wheels will not tuck at all...... cuz of the lip on the fenders do they tuck when the wheel camber? I know they will notin the back without either narrowing the rear end or rolling the lip.

 

they should, but maybe you should PM lancers. his truck is 'bagged already. (lucky)

 

Even rolling the lip won't work without shortening the axle.

Our beds fenders are egged shaped. The look like they will tuck but when they get into the fender they rub.

So either a +40mm or better, a billet wheel with a 6.5 Backspace or shorten the rear axle.

 

Thank you man you've been very helpful

 

I have 0 camber lol.

As long as you don't put risers on your control arms you should have some camber therefore the front will clear.

You shouldn't have any problems with the front tucking, the only thing is making the front work :kiki:

 

haha is it hard to bag the front of a rado?

 

Yes, very freaking hard.

People with Rangers and Dakotas ain't got nothing on us lol. I know they are a bitch to bag but ours are WAY worse.

Barely Legal Fabrication is building some arms for us though to lay out on 24s.

Now I've seen them For Sale but I believe it's pre-order only.

GTC Fabrication

Some where on that site. That would make it so easy to bag once they release them.

 

yes, but what we really need is an upper bag mount for the front. control arms are great, but you cant do shit without still having to fab up some of your own bracketry.

 

haha I won't be the one doing it I'm not talented but hopefully the guy that is going to knows what he's getting into lol

 

How much are we looking at to shorten the rear end do we trade in our axles and get new ones or do they litterly chope them ?

 

I was going to be charged about $400 or so. What they do is they take your axles send them off to be resplined(sp?) and shortened and then they shorten your housing and put it all back together.

I would think you need to shorten about 2" or so. I wouldn't shorten any more wheels look funny sucked in that far.

I sure as shit hope this guy doesn't start work on my truck and then flip out cuz it's hard and charge me way more lol

Has he ever bagged a Rado before?

 

I sure as shit hope this guy doesn't start work on my truck and then flip out cuz it's hard and charge me way more lol

 

I have 2" balljoints up front that's it, did not raise the upper at all, it's not that big of a deal to bag these trucks.

 

Well everyone I know has made it hard as hell. :lmao:

As far as my experience this is my first truck and I've done alot of work to the front and it doesn't seem that hard.

I had risers put on to make it all the way down

I did not do the original work.

 

:355group: over all guys how much did you spend bagging the ride ?
Not includeing what you can do on your own like tubbing the bed out, ball joints, control arms, and cuten the axel, brakets, and moveing around the guts under the hood? I want it done but looking at trying to get sponcered first got one in the net.

 

With you doing the work or a shop?

 

So I don't even know if i'm going to get to bag the dang thang now BUT when i get around to it then I'll know haha

 

:naughty:HaHa dang.....I'll buy new ones then so we're not samesies