You may wanna pm supermod...isnt it him who once made the led window controls? I bet he would know... Hell if not give me a couple days...I am sure I can find a colly or canyon in the yard that can be donated...

 

Try these:

Autolumination Instrument Panel Light Bulbs & Lamps)

About half way down the page, those should be the ones.

 

Many Thanks have you tried the led twist locks?

 

Yeah , James specializes in the LEDs but we are on beta test stealth project # 3 and I need the lamps LOL....Yard as in junk yard? Say it isnt so....I just paid for some junker parts that I needed really bad for an upcoming mod...HMMMM

 

A couple of mine are out also, just kinda ignored it, and hadn't looked for the bulb yet. Would be cool to find out a # for them.

 

I personally have not tried them.

 

I have those neo-wedge bulbs they show. I had gotten them from v-leds.com but they are the same thing. And they actually have the tall ones to do the headlight switch, hell yea! And I'm 99% sure it was the type-b (t4) ones.

 

To double check measure the base of the bulb and make sure it is 3/8"

 

Yes, the base is 3/8" or 10mm.

 

Thanks guys! yall are the real deal...I'll get some headed this way..I was hesitant to order them because I wasn’t sure but here goes the T4s

 

Well this is all good to know. I have been meaning to switch mine out!

 

Yeah i was going to ask that one day mine are out too.

 

Yea... i found those after i hard wired in LED's and resistors

 

Well I ordered 10 of the incandescent T4 red ones for Carmacs truck so we will see when they get here..LED's @ 3 bucks a piece is pretty steep

 

The LED T4s were like 3.99 ea, I think I might end up getting those too!

 

Nother thing you can do it you're a handy kinda person, untwist the wires of the bulbs you have and pull it out. Then put a resistor and led of your choice in it's place. It was on the corvette forum they did that. I'm trying to find the link.

 

Sweet and a link on resistor value and led p/n would be great..Also direction of the led since they are going to be polarity sensitive...IE location of cathode vs anode.

 

You'll have to take a meter to the board to see which side is positive. Here is the link to the How-to. Here is a link to LEDs and resistors. I would suggest 3mm LEDs for no modification. And it looks like you'll need 470ohm resistors. And you could clean up the install more from that how-to. Just shorten the resistor and lead to make it close to the LED and fit inside the base. Then silicone the whole thing inside the base.

 

Looks great but when the bulb is twist locked into the socket that is where power comes from thus the 2 connections being made by the twist lock need to be the resistor side and the other would be the cathode of the diode which returns to negative. Got some headed this way and I'll be playing with em. Just though I would mention that to clear things up as the proceedure neglected to mention that

 

Yea thats what I was saying. Put the resistor on the led but make it way shorter and not have to hang outside the base like they have it. Then leave the other side of the resistor long to exit the base and wrap it around like it is now. Easy as pie.

 

I hear ya like Im near ya....As soon as I get the parts I'll do it and take pics

 

Heck of a call on the incadescent lamps....Good news is they already arrived and size is perfect....Bad news is we are probably not going to use them....When my leds and resistors arrive we will make our own and post the pics. But here is what they look like and a pic of the lamp lit up.

 

Clint, so do you think they will be brighter then what came from the factory; the ones you just got in the mail(in pics)?

 

I don't know Jeremy, when Carmac gets over here this weekend we will install one, take pics and do a comparsion. Regardless, Ill let ya know... I do know the Leds that Im going to build will be much brighter than oem...They should be in hopefully within a few days and we will get pics of them as well..Hopefully Jordons shackles will be in so we will make a day of it LOL

 

I did my LEDs in the doors i can try and get pics. I dont know if you are aware dont use the clear plastic things in the switch. I found you have to put them right in the switch and wire back to the board for them to be brighter.

 

Yeah pics and a how to on this would be super!

I will check back in over the weekend!

 

Alright door panel pic is red incandescent lights, Heater AC controls are red booties over the stock lights. Super mod sells these red booties for the lights...It is a biotch getting to them but I did it...wooot wooot. The knobs will not come off. I pulled the sticker off the controls to access the bulbs gingerly removed the blue booties and added red. I also did the light switch control module. In addition, on some of the door switches the bulbs will not work in because the board supplies power on the bottom side and the bulb connections are on the top side so I simply stripped the bulb from the socket and close couple soldered it to the board in order for the red to be as bright as possible...Pics dont so it justice...It is really sick. LEDs are due in next and I'll do some with pics but from what I have seen booties and bulbs work just fine.

BTW, here is the link for the red booties
http://stores.ebay.com/SuperModulat...R-LIGHT-BULB-FILTERS_W0QQ_fsubZ843548QQ_sidZ15850347QQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em322

 

Clint, if you could do a write up, I might have to mail you a six pack of you choice!

I want to do these so bad now; especially since I got the LED cluster mod now!

 

Brother, simply get the incadescents and some red booties, send em to me and I'll do em for ya for free....but trust me Its easy....The only problem was the heater controls but after a half of a fith of Jack black I resorted to red booties out of desparation and it worked! I really think you could do your entire truck by just removing the oem blue booties and changing them with red...It is so easy...Get with supermod and get the booties then find the light bulbs and the ones that you cant unscrew use long thin needle nose pliers , remove the blue add red and you are done... Even the headlight control module was really easy and like I said pics do not do it justice...Now I gotta do Cody's but I need more booties LOL...Blue doesnt work so good, but the red is the real deal

 

Nice!

Well I will order everything and do it while I'm on leave in March! I told the wifey I need to spend some quality time with my truck!

How much of a pain in the ass is it to get the headlight switch out; never tried to before!

 

Its not expensive at all...I believe the booties are like 6 bucks to do the truck... The lamps source is listed here for the ones that are blown...The headlight switch is easy simply remove the screw on the drivers side lower panel that faces the door. Pull the lower section of plastic down and you will see a socket head screw attached to the headlight controls. Remove it and the controls are out...Disconnect wires and pull out..Note we removed the driver’s side AC vent to get more room and strongly suggest doing so. Once the module is out..then there are like 5 Philips screws to remove, then you get to the board. WARNING....DO NOT RIP IT OPEN...Take your time and gingerly lift cover as to not disturb any unnecessary components. Find the lamps remove blue booties and add red...Reverse procedure and you are done.

BTW, I have talked to several people that said that they have removed the knobs off the ac controls and at this point after 3 unsuccessful tries I doubt it seriously that they have successfully did it...SO if ya know of anyone that has send em to me or let me know...Not often I admit defeat but I couldn’t get it to work.

On the AC controls when you pull the plastic with the symbols on it, use a thin flat blade screwdriver or razor blade to get it started. then simply pry slowly. Don’t stick a screw driver all the way towards the middle or you will scratch the sticker...Just pull...Once sticker is off you can see the lamps but no way your going to change them. I had to scrape them with a long skinny screw driver till the blue bootie came off then with a surgeons set of long very skinny needle nose pliers threaded the red on.