Why using 14awg wiring to the doors? You mean you're running 14awg from the amp to the speaker right?

 

Plz keep updates coming!!! I've got an mtx thunder perform amp that I plan on using for my alpine type r components up front and type s in back, just need a wiring kit to finish. Post any problems you run into, and as always keep the pics coming!!!!!


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

Yea im running 14awg from the amp to the door speakers. Didnt feel like spending the money on 10-12awg, too much $$$. Plus its C&E copper so better quality for the money. Will post more pics when I install!

 

Check with Crutchfield... That site has alot of info... Good luck with the installation !!!

 

Considered the P400-4 amp by Rockford Fosgate but figured you know with that kinda power you might as well be doin competitions lol Just wanted something cheaper, smaller and plus eventually I'll add another mono amp pushin a sub. But thats down the road yet Gotta save a little for that lift^^going uppp^^

 

Lol your doing the exact opposite as me, I got the sub then the doors



Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

Why are you running 14awg though? I mean it's not necessary. 10-12awg speakers would be nuts. haha You aren't putting THAT much power through them.

I was just curious why you choose to go with a heavier gauge. 100w would run in 18awg no problem.

 

Lol no reason at all, got the wire cheap and its quality copper so works for me! Of course I considered a sub setup first but didnt really wanna spend the money on subs and box design etc. Ive had lots of larger setups with over 4000w but definitely just want something clean and simple for this truck. Plus my door speakers have been clipping so amping them should stop that problem giving them the juice they need first!

 

Looks like a good set up, but if you're using an amp to power the door speakers, and plan to add a separate amp later to push the sub, why not just buy a 5 channel amp?

 

I prefer mono amps for subs, easier to work with in my opinion this is honestly my first hook up ever using more than a 2 channel amp lol

 

The speaker wire just seems like a heavy gauge wire to me. Cheap or not, if it's not right it's not worth it.

It will be fine I'm sure, but unnecessary (in my opinion).

 

Got the amp and speaker wire in the mail and prepping for the install tomorrow. Trying to figure out how I'm going to run the new speaker wire through the door boots into the cabin. Looks like it's going to be a huge hassle but worth the effort lol any tips running the wire trough the tube into the door? I've considered pulling with a clothes hanger lol

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

The stock wiring is plenty unless you just want to change it, which is a pain with the door plugs. I have 100w rms each 6.5"s in each door wired to an audiobahn 2200 hjc turned down but still enough to easily clip them on clean power and just wired to the dash then through the stock wires

 

^^^^This. It just wasn't worth the hassle of trying to fight getting the wire through the door boots, save your self the time and hassle and just run to the stock wiring behind the radio.

 

If you are still dead set on running that heavy wire, some have drilled holes in the harness and pushed new wire through it. Saw a picture of that on here once before.

 

Fishing wires through the door boots & grommets is a huge PITA (I installed heated mirrors). I ended up drilling holes in the plastic grommets (can't think of a better way to describe them) big enough for the wires needed for the mirrors & then fished the wires through the boot. Took forever, but I got it eventually.

This post has a rough picture of what I did: http://www.355nation.net/forum/projects-build/53636-colly-part-dos-silver-umm-bullet-update-26-jun-2014-pg-19-a-7.html#post1818190

 

I drilled holes in the connector at the doors. Here is some pics. I removed the doors it makes it easier to work on.

 

I'll take a look at it tomorrow and see what I wanna do, prolly will just use the stock wiring and run them back to the amp. Only would want to change to the new speaker wire for cleanliness lol either way just excited to have another project. Thanks for the pics BigR, those were what I was looking for but not wanting to pull the door lol


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

You keep confusing me by saying running speaker wire to the amp. Power is fed TO the speaker so you're running it from the amp.

I keep reading it as you're sending your signal wires to the amp (speaker wire to the amp). I know, all technical...... but it is two different things.

 

He is running speaker wire to the amp.... Really doesn't matter which end signal comes from it has to connect at both points..

 

If anyone on here is dumb enough to run signal from the head unit speaker wires to the amps output connections they shouldn't be installing anything to begin with lol

 

Wow you are getting technical, apparently I'm not using the correct terminology but yea that's exactly what I meant. Using the stock wires and running them back to the amp so they are getting the power FROM the amp how's that? Lol


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

My brain keeps visualizing the signal feeds when you say running wire to the amp.

When I think for a second I of course know what you mean....but it's not following the current path in that direction. I know, mr. technical. Then again, I get paid to make sure I know which direction things flow - so I'm notice things that pretty often. My job has definite to's and from's.

 

Lol no there are a few internet gurus with very little experience but lots of time to fill their head with info that they often confuse from lack of applying it

 

Finally found the time to go through and install the new Rockford Fosgate 250x4 amp! Install was a breeze, decided to not take the time and run new wire from the door speakers to the amp because I didn't want to deal with the door boots. SO its a simple setup taking the existing speaker wires and wiring them back to the amp. Of course making things look clean in the process hiding the wires lol Also the amp is finally giving the speakers the juice they needed so no more clipping :th_woot: Overall I would say this amp made a world of difference on sound quality, like being at a concert. However for them being 6.5" door speakers obviously the bass isn't by no means incredible but I am impressed with these Kicker CS54's. Didnt feel like installing the FatMat today so saving that for the weekend probably when I install an Alpine MRP1000 amplifier for the final sub touch to make it sound beast :drinking28:

Now I'm just dealing with the dreaded alternator whine, any tips to rid of this? Ground Loop?

 

RCA's and power wire ran on separate sides or truck? If so where is your ground? A ground loop is basically to cover up of an issue. I have ran 1600w rms to highs alone with clarity

 

Yea the power cable and front left, rear left wired down left side. Both sets RCA's, Remote and front right, rear right wired down right side. I just grounded a short wire to one of the rear seat mounting bolts, convenient.

 

Is the ground cable the same gauge as the power feed from the battery? It's recommended (from what I remember from 25 years ago), the shortest possible ground wire, and same or heavier gauge as power feel make for a good ground.