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How To: LED Cluster Conversions

160K views 398 replies 90 participants last post by  MikeHawk808  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Disclaimer
The community here at 355nation.net urges you to please use caution and seek professional assistance when performing modifications to your vehicle. Before attempting any modification it is advised that you refer to your Colorado or Canyon service manual or contact a certified mechanic as not all GMT355 trucks are the same. The staff and the associated members are in no way responsible for any damages, injuries or other harm inflicted to your vehicle or yourself which may result in attempting these modifications. The posts and content presented on this site reflect in no way the views of 355nation.net or it’s ownership.

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A 355nation How To presented by
Captain Rab, 1BADI5

Project Name
How-To LED Cluster Conversions

Project Description
Converting stock cluster LEDS to an Led color of your choice.

Skill Level
Advanced

Project Vehicle
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Colorado
Year: 2007
Engine: 2.9L
Power windows: Yes
Sun Roof: No

Tools Needed
Torx Bit Screwdriver
Needle Nose Pliers
Soldering Iron
Solder
Permanent Marker
Wick Wire
(2O) 3 mm LEDs form Oznium.com Get several more in case you mess up or kill one because of too much heat


Project Time
1-3 hours

Project Cost
Roughly $25.00

Note: Consider needle colors when selecting led colors as the red needles associated with an Xtreme display will not conduct blue light well. The white needles off of an H3 cluster will work great with blue. Another option is to scrape the bottom side of the needle with a razor blade to remove any paint and then buff with a dremmel tool. This allows better light penetration and adds a nice touch.
  1. Remove cluster by following procedure http://www.355nation.net/forum/how-interior/7408-how-remove-cluster.html

  2. Disconnect rear cable of Cluster and take the cluster to a well lit work bench.

  3. Disassemble cluster by removing all torx bit screws from cluster.

  4. Carefully remove clear lens assembly and gently remove pointers by pinching and pulling at the same time.

  5. Remove circuit board from cluster.

  6. Locate each of the Anode (+) and mark the positive on the led by placing a mark on the board. Refer to the below picture and look for the red + mark near each led.




    Figure A

  7. Take each replacement led and sand the top flat but be careful not to sand too deep. I check the diodes after sanding with a standard fluke multimeter set on ohms and it should have enough power to light the led. Keep in mind that diodes are polarity conscious so black goes to the Cathode (-) and red to the Anode (+). See Picture below:

    Image

    FIGURE B

  8. Bend the led legs of the LED’s as close to flush as you can. Height is very critical or you will have issues with the DIC or the LED’s hitting things that they shouldn’t. See figure C


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    FIGURE C

  9. Heat the old diodes solder joints and remove them off the board. Be careful not to use too much heat and damage the PCB. If necessary use the wick wire to draw any excess solder off of the board. See link below for a soldering primer and how to use wick wire. Soldering Guide

  10. Once all old diodes are off the board begin replacing them with the new LED’s. Paying attention to the polarity. (Remember – (positive or anode) goes to the black dot.) If you get confused hold the diode into the light. The largest piece of metal in the led is negative or cathode. See figure B or C.

  11. Once all LEDS are installed Reverse the assembly process and check for fit. If any diodes are too high the DIC may not work and you will have to redo the PRNDL12 LEDS.


    Figure D

  12. If you are satisfied that the LED’s are all good remove the board and check all the LED’s by plugging it back into the truck. If an LED doesn’t work then the polarity may be wrong or the LED died from too much heat. Repeat the process until all LEDS are functional.

  13. Assembly the rear of the display first but do not put the lens cover back on.

  14. Calibrate gauges by turning the ignition key to the first position with the display plugged in. Install needles by gingerly pressing them onto the shaft until you feel a slight click. Naturally at the zero location.

  15. Turn key off then back on to make sure the needle is positioned correctly.

  16. Repeat for all needles then start the truck and verify they all work and are zeroed or reading properly.

  17. Remove cluster and attach the plastic housing then install and enjoy.

    If you don't want to try this yourself, attached is the link to my service page

    http://www.355nation.net/forum/limi...ndors/47612-custom-leds-clusters-4x4-modules-hvac-headlight-control-airbag.html

FINISHED Product


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Colorado Xtreme Cluster

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Hummer H3 Cluster
 

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#3 ·
Here is another example for you guys and gals out there!

Xtreme cluster w/ stock red needles, red LEDs on main gauges and blue LEDs in the gear indicators. Sorry for the poor quality photo...it really washes out the red on the gauges.

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#6 ·
Green has been done, but not common as red or blue. The green reminds me of the 93-98 VWs...I personally like it, but I have a red truck...so nuff said there.
 
#5 ·
Good Write up Clint, I was looking for a thread like this earlier to see what I could do. Will probably pick up a instrument cluster from the yard sometime and practice in the future.
 
#10 ·
very nice, now only if i could find some clear needles
 
#13 ·
I have a spare board if you want it. No clue how many miles are on it, and it's just the board (no bezel thingy, or face thingy...just the board). I think I even took the LEDs off of it to swap it into another truck but never did the swap. lol
 
#18 ·
Awesome work Clint, I cant wait to do mine now. I think I prob need to practice a bit on my soldering skills before I take everything apart. Do you have a measurement of the height of these LEDs after you sand them down?
 
#20 ·
Not off hand but if they are too tall you will know, the key is to sand them down flat and then bend the leads as short radius as possible then it will all work out. If you have trouble getting the screws in or the DIC isnt working then they are too tall. The area of most concern is the PRNDL area. If these aren't low enough then the elastomer strips for the display will not contact the pcb and it wont read.

Thats how I got into doing them, I had to troubleshoot a cluster from someone else that had a DIC problem and after a few minutes realized what was going on.
 
#21 · (Edited)
hey cap just wondering if the 1st or 8th is a better weekend for you and i know you already told me but about how long will we need
For the whole truck about 3 or 4 hours if I have your cluster done and we have no issues and you help tear everything apart...If Tim was with us probably cut it down to 2 or 3

Ill have to check on the dates, COdy is still playing bball and I gotta haul booty now. LOL take care
 
#24 ·
The factory LED's being replaced are PLCC-2. These are a direct swap and require no sanding or modification. Just buy them in the color your want and replace the stockers. The only exception is the DIC, because you mount them on their side. 3mm work best, but you only need 4 of them.
 
#28 · (Edited)
Here are a few pics of 504's Leds project from this past weekend.
504 and CaptainRab did all of these mods in about 2 hours with no isuues, right first time install.
Upcoming how to's will allow anyone to do these in short order.
 

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#29 · (Edited)
Nice work Clint!
 
#33 ·
Woo Hoo, saving some loot!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
#32 · (Edited)
I've been ordering from C-LEDs for probably close to a year now. They ship USPS Priority mail for free, have INCREDIBLE customer service (as in I've emailed them at 1AM and had a response within minutes), they accept paypal and are out of New York, usually takes about 4 days for me to get my orders (i'm on the west coast). $12.97 for a pack of 100 and they test and guarantee each LED to work. NEVER had an LED from them not work. They put together any sort of custom order you want, you just have to email them!

c-leds.com

EDIT* I don't think they have the PLCC-2 LEDs mentioned a few posts up though...I normally use 3mm. Didn't think about that one. lol. oh well...hopefully it helps someone! lol