Chevrolet Colorado & GMC Canyon Forum banner

09 and newer rear brakes pics

33K views 15 replies 12 participants last post by  cart7881  
#1 ·
All need to see if anyone has pics or a how to for 09 or later rear brake replacement.

So for the searches show 05-07 and my 09 brakes are different.

Could use some help
 
#2 ·
Thought they were all the same...
Someone will chime in... Good luck with your project !!!
 
#3 ·
For the rears, I thought the only difference was the brake lines themselves since it's 4 channel ABS instead of 3 channel like the earlier ones. The fronts are totally different hardware-wise, but installation is basically identical.

If you know how to do drums at all, they're all the same honestly. And good luck, the main spring sucks to deal with.
 
#4 · (Edited)
The rear drums are different.....

I've included a pdf from the service manual for servicing drum brakes on a 2009+ Colorado.


2009+ rear drum brakes
Image

Image


pre-2009 rear drum brakes
Image
 

Attachments

#6 ·
Sorry for the delay... Thanks for responding everyone.

Yup they are different as seen by the pics rshadd provided. 09 was the new design year and I do not have the long show hold down bar to deal with.

As typical drum brakes go - not bad to change just a PITA

I have 98K miles on the rear brakes and they actually look like I could have gone another 10 thousand miles. I replaced the front pads/rotors around 80K (plus or minus a few thousand miles) and they also looked like they have gone another 10K miles. Having said that, I replaced all the brakes with OEM replacements, worth a few dollars and you won't regret it.

I took pics as proceeded to remember to put things back in it's place, or I might have a spare part...

I actually started by releasing the e-brake cables on the driver side below the drivers door. there is a pig tail where both cables are connected. Obviously, e-brake is off so make sure you have chocks on the front wheels with jack stands. That made it easy to take the cable out of the e-brake arm located on the brake shoe. From there releasing the shoe springs that keep the shoes in place and cap, and needle hold down. I then took off the horizontal springs connecting the shoes together and then finally the adjuster keys.

I had to replace the e-brake hold down swivels that connect to one of the shoes. I also measured the old adjuster key to align the new adjuster key to minimize my adjustments so when I put on the drums, they would be snug and not have to adjust later. That ended up being worth it.

This helped me a lot: After I prepped the e-brake shoe with its new hardware and right before I put the spring hold down back on the pin, I put a philips screw driver through the shoe and the black plate to hold up the shoe and re-connected the e-brake cable back at the pigtail. the first cable went in fairly easy, but the second cable was a mofo! I ended up having the wife use a big set of needle nose pliers to hold and guide the cable head into the slot while used all my might (lying on back) to pull the cable as far I could so she slide it in (cone shape cable head into a round hole/needed to bend cable end to fit the round part of the cone into the round hole...), otherwise it wouldn't have gone in with me trying to do both. Unless have cannons, not guns, LOL, and can hold it with one hand and use the other to guide it in.

That was the only difficult part of the change. Oh, make sure you use WD-40 or any other rust petroleum spray on the hub/drum and wait at least 10 minutes for it to work. Tap around the studs and since replaced the drums, I tapped around the outside and watch it pop.

Saved big dollars and I took my time which ended up for me being the first time, about 2 hours for the first pair and an hour and half for the other, just making sure everything went in place.

Don't assume you have enough brake cleaner spray.....otherwise you have to borrow the wife's car to get some. LOL
 
#13 ·
Sorry for the delay... Thanks for responding everyone.

Yup they are different as seen by the pics rshadd provided. 09 was the new design year and I do not have the long show hold down bar to deal with.

As typical drum brakes go - not bad to change just a PITA

I have 98K miles on the rear brakes and they actually look like I could have gone another 10 thousand miles. I replaced the front pads/rotors around 80K (plus or minus a few thousand miles) and they also looked like they have gone another 10K miles. Having said that, I replaced all the brakes with OEM replacements, worth a few dollars and you won't regret it.

I took pics as proceeded to remember to put things back in it's place, or I might have a spare part...

I actually started by releasing the e-brake cables on the driver side below the drivers door. there is a pig tail where both cables are connected. Obviously, e-brake is off so make sure you have chocks on the front wheels with jack stands. That made it easy to take the cable out of the e-brake arm located on the brake shoe. From there releasing the shoe springs that keep the shoes in place and cap, and needle hold down. I then took off the horizontal springs connecting the shoes together and then finally the adjuster keys.

I had to replace the e-brake hold down swivels that connect to one of the shoes. I also measured the old adjuster key to align the new adjuster key to minimize my adjustments so when I put on the drums, they would be snug and not have to adjust later. That ended up being worth it.

This helped me a lot: After I prepped the e-brake shoe with its new hardware and right before I put the spring hold down back on the pin, I put a philips screw driver through the shoe and the black plate to hold up the shoe and re-connected the e-brake cable back at the pigtail. the first cable went in fairly easy, but the second cable was a mofo! I ended up having the wife use a big set of needle nose pliers to hold and guide the cable head into the slot while used all my might (lying on back) to pull the cable as far I could so she slide it in (cone shape cable head into a round hole/needed to bend cable end to fit the round part of the cone into the round hole...), otherwise it wouldn't have gone in with me trying to do both. Unless have cannons, not guns, LOL, and can hold it with one hand and use the other to guide it in.

That was the only difficult part of the change. Oh, make sure you use WD-40 or any other rust petroleum spray on the hub/drum and wait at least 10 minutes for it to work. Tap around the studs and since replaced the drums, I tapped around the outside and watch it pop.

Saved big dollars and I took my time which ended up for me being the first time, about 2 hours for the first pair and an hour and half for the other, just making sure everything went in place.

Don't assume you have enough brake cleaner spray.....otherwise you have to borrow the wife's car to get some. LOL

Do you have any pictures
 
#7 ·
Yeah be thankful you don't have that pain in the dick horseshoe spring
 
  • Like
Reactions: macgyver915
#10 ·
I know this is an old thread but I was going to do my brakes this weekend, and luckily came across this before I got started. Is there anywhere that has a video or pictures of the process, everything that I was able to find is for 04-08. Everything seems pretty straight forwards up until the parking brake.

The shoes I got don't have a spring attached or anything, I am assuming that I just use the existing hardware unless to beat to death?

Sorry if that sounds like a stupid question, I just would prefer to avoid getting halfway into the thing and then realizing I am missing something etc, as I am not very familiar was drum brakes yet.

Also thanks @rshadd for that PDF!