I don’t have a better solution other than checking out car-part.com.

I ended up finding a spare fuel tank on their app for my 2010 and snagged it when I took a vacation. Driving home with a fuel tank strapped to the roof was kinda funny.

If you find one I’d highly recommend getting pictures before you commit to a purchase to be sure it’s in good shape.

 

Sorry I don't have advice for a solution to your leak problem. The EVAP tests wouldn't be causing pressure in the tank.

When the PCM does an EVAP test it closes the vent solenoid on the canister and opens the purge valve on the engine. That causes a vacuum to be applied to the system.

During normal driving the vent solenoid is open and no pressure will build up in the tank. However, if the vent solenoid is stuck closed and the purge valve is closed (normal position), pressure can build up in the tank

 

Thanks for the reply's guys, I was under the impression that when it did the EVAP test, it pressurized the tank and got is reading from the fuel pressure sensor that's connected into the top of the fuel pump, but now that you explain that its actually pulling vacuum that makes sense. thank you for clarifying that! Hope I can come up with a solution soon

 

Have you resmoked it after the repair? I'm assuming you changed the fuel pump? When this happened to me, it was the fuel pump itself that had rotted to the point it would't hold a seal ( but still pumped fuel)

 

Yes I re smoked after repairing both times, it was successful and did not fail until the gas cap light came on after 180 miles, I re-smoked and it was coming out of the top again around the seal.

 

I don't think those ring repair kits have even a 1 in 50 success ratio. That said, did you check the filler neck? Connected to the neck is a small vapor tube, where it's welded on pin holes can develop. They can be so small that you can get an intermittent code.
Keep in mind that if you look for another tank only 04 and 05 fit your truck.

 

I found a few posts online with people using the repair kits, few YouTube videos too, I thought it had a better track record then that but apparently not Haha. I did check the filler neck and all vent lines, they checked out well. Thanks for the heads up on the tank years!

 

Mine was rotted so bad that every time it rained I had to crawl underneath and pull the fuel filter to drain the rainwater from the tank.

I used this kit on mine last year. I found the trick is to not torque the screws down like you're torqueing on metal, and I used the entire tube of sealant on both the underside of the ring as well as all over the top. That was 1 or 2 years ago.

CANYON -COLORADO 2004-05 PLASTIC GAS TANK LOCK RING REPAIR #TR27-R | eBay

THAT HOLD IN THE FUEL PUMP ON 2004-05 COLORADO AND CANYON TRUCKS. CANYON -COLORADO 2004-05 PLASTIC GAS TANK LOCK RING REPAIR #TR27-R (#283936420371). COLORADO / CANYON 2004-2005. TR27-R PLASTIC TANK LOCK RING REPAIR KIT FOR 2004-2005 GMC CANYON/CHEVY COLORADO - YouTube.

www.ebay.com

 

Thanks for the info! Are you still driving that truck today?

 

Yes sir. Almost daily. Pull a 6x12 enclosed trailer loaded with 2500lbs of mowers, 7x14 open with landscaping supplies or "babecat", and she wears a Snoway plow usually December through March. I think I'm up to 424XXX. Didn't replace the factory pump until maybe a scosche over 400/410k.

 

Hello everyone! I was hunting down my large EVAP leak and after smoking it and seeing it pour out of the top of the tank, I dropped the tank and found the fuel pump locking tabs rotted off. I tried the repair kit they sell with the seal all TWICE. I made sure to grind the metal tabs down flush on the tank, clean and rough up the plastic surrounding it very well, then a final clean with alcohol before assembly. I then let it dry / cure for 12+ hours before installing it back in the truck. I feel like it stays sealed until 180-200 miles after and then I get the gas cap light. (Thinking that when the fuel tank pressurizes to do the EVAP test it blows out the seal from the pressure ? ) I live in NH so I need emissions in working order to pass state inspection unfortunately. No junkyards around me have anything that's in better shape, I saw a few on eBay for $800 +.

Has anyone ever found another solution of installing a different tank and / or fuel cell while keeping emissions intact?

thanks for reading!

I replaced my fuel pump, replaced o ring, since I didn't have a snap ring I drilled 4 -1/4" holes in New fuel pump where "0" ring is compressed , then having someone hold fuel pump in place , drill 1/8" into the gas tank threw the center of the 1/4 holes then get all 4 screws started then tighten screws evenly.
If you want, put silicon on before tightening screws for a better seal ( I didn't an it didn't leak) but that's up to you !!! I've done 3 like that an never leaked !!
From Dr. Mark. Thank you !!

 

For anyone with this issue, and access to a 3D printer, I designed my own ring to fix this problem. Mine is a crew cab model, so I also made a gutter to direct anything entering the gap between bed and cab away from fuel pump cavity. I have shared the files on cults3d.

Unfortunately, I forgot what user name I had used here, so I had to sign up for new account. Hence, I'm completely blocked from even putting in a non-linked address.

If one searches 'cognitivedesigns` on cults3d site, or @HOWIC on Odysee, you will find them. If searching Odysee, go to content tab and put Colorado in search.

Hope someone else finds those helpful.

 

Solved my same problem using kellys automotive products. Kebu_4879