When you say it restarts, you mean the starter actually spins up on its own? Do you have an aftermarket remote start?

 

Yes, as a matter of fact... I changed out the ignition switch today after it quit on me 5 times every 6-7 minutes like clockwork. While I had the column and panels off I was staring at the installation of the aftermarket auto start. It does work fine when I use it as the only feature is start & stop the truck. Every time it lost power while driving I got out and disconnected the battery and re-attached and it started right up with NO hesitation... I also went through the passcode procedure and after the 3rd cycle the truck did shut off on its own before it completed the 10 minute waiting period! But, then it started right up as it said it should! So weird... Why do you say remote starter? I did not install this, it came with the truck... Thanks for the reply

 

Most remote start systems have an timed shutoff (so you don't inadvertently start your car remotely while leaving for a one week vacation in another car...) - 10 minutes is notional for those timers, but 6-7 minutes might be what your system does. So that system can turn the car off as well, and they do fail when they get older. I think your truck is running on the remote start timer all the time, and it does what it's supposed to do and turn the engine off after a fixed period of time. I'd pull that system out and see if things become normal.

 

I like the idea and will disable tomorrow... Thank you so much! I'll post the outcome for you & others

 

What year is this truck? I'll dig into the schematics...

 

2006 Chevy Colorado, no power locks nor windows... Basic truck, with 4 cylinder Isuzu engine, auto...

 

Ok...just some guessing here on what to look at. First lets make sure you have solid power to the circuit that starts and keeps the truck running.
1. Relay 61 is the Run/Crank Relay that would be a primary source of power to the BCM to keep the truck running - swap it or replace it.
2. Ground G105 (or SP105) is a common ground point for the BCM that is the ground point for (among other things) the Run/Crank Relay. It's located outboard your battery, bolted to the fender. This is a known source of weird electrical problems - take it off and clean it up - make sure there's solid metal to metal between the lug and the fender. (There's another "twin" to this on the other side of the engine compartment - clean that one up as well "while you are there".)

Did you remove the remote start connections from the ignition system, or did you just pull the fuses?

Lets see if 1 & 2 above address the problem. Sometimes a relay with pitted connections inside will effectively open as it warms up, which would give a delay to the effect of its failure. The ground point can behave the same way.
Ken

 

Ok...just some guessing here on what to look at. First lets make sure you have solid power to the circuit that starts and keeps the truck running.
1. Relay 61 is the Run/Crank Relay that would be a primary source of power to the BCM to keep the truck running - swap it or replace it.
2. Ground G105 (or SP105) is a common ground point for the BCM that is the ground point for (among other things) the Run/Crank Relay. It's located outboard your battery, bolted to the fender. This is a known source of weird electrical problems - take it off and clean it up - make sure there's solid metal to metal between the lug and the fender. (There's another "twin" to this on the other side of the engine compartment - clean that one up as well "while you are there".)

Did you remove the remote start connections from the ignition system, or did you just pull the fuses?

Lets see if 1 & 2 above address the problem. Sometimes a relay with pitted connections inside will effectively open as it warms up, which would give a delay to the effect of its failure. The ground point can behave the same way.
Ken

1 & 2 I had already disassembled and cleaned grounding points on each fender area and mounting bolts... They "looked" fine, also applied a touch of di-electric grease before pushing spade(s) back together in plastic housing... Already changed relay with a new Delco brand... 3 I just removed the 3 fuses that were installed inline, did not cut wiring... Heading to work soon this morning, hopefully it starts! Funny my 20 mile commute to work it gets there (it has died once in three weeks), when I head home in the afternoon it dies on and off in intervals. It still acts like something heats up and opens electrically.

 

Man these problems are frustrating. I had a similar problem in that I had a no start when cold. Below ~32* my truck would crank but not start. 34 and above, non issue. Through trial and error I learned that if I heated up the fuse block with a hair dryer, truck would start. Eventually I narrowed it down to the TCM fuse that has a sloppy socket. I found that by wiggling each fuse while the truck was running. Wiggled that fuse, and it died. Do your reset method and poke each fuse and relay, see if you can find one to respond.
I need some clarification please. Does this happen while the truck is in gear and moving, or is it always while idling for X minutes. If only an idle issue it sure seems that the auto start is not executing the handshake to say you have key started the truck.

 

My problem happens with "both" scenarios... Setting & going down the road. Two days ago while traveling it had power loss every 7-8 minutes in 35 minutes of driving. I knew this as when I removed the battery cable the re-installing the radio clock would reset to 12:00. Again, before I took the cable off and turned the key there was NO click or restart! Instrument lights were on and no dash icons flashing...

 

What remote start system was installed? I'm curious what modifications to the wiring harness it takes to install it - I'll look up the install manual online.

 

Crimestopper RS4-G5-1 Way unit installed 12/20/2018... I left for work early AM, never had issue in 20 miles... Got out headed home and no issues... Left run in driveway and roughly 12 minutes later it shut off! Sad thing is my PASSLOCK light stays on now (it was on this AM when I started the truck...) I've reset it twice again since and now I can't even get it to flash as procedure says it should and truck starts every time! I left it run then and it shut off in 5 minutes... I have completely removed the crimestopper (beyond just fuses) main module under dash. I called the place that installed and first he said they didn't sell them that long ago... I gave him the invoice number and he changed his attitude! He told me to unhook this module... I don't understand how a harness as this can just be hanging there with nothing on it now and it still runs! I can't see if they added a cable to a GM plug-in under the dash in the darkness? Anyway, I left the battery cables tied together off the battery. I need a break... Some say it helps... ???? The other info as I stated before is that when it quits (in my driveway) and I let it sit 5-10 minutes it will crank and start again! I don't have to unhook the battery cable... It's like there's a resetting circuit breaker some where that opens and closes when it cools off! Man, I'm stumped!

 

Just thinking out loud here - I don't think this has anything to do with the PASSLOCK system - that only disables the fuel delivery while starting, it would still turn the starter and power everything else up. You changed the ignition switch, which assumes you'll need to do the PASSLOCK relearn, which you seem to have successfully done.

1. When the truck dies, does it seem to be a loss of fuel (sputters to a stop), or a loss of ignition (instant loss of power)?
2. What idiot lights come on on the dash when it dies? Or are you losing the lignts on the dash as well? I'm finding it strange you don't get a CEL on these shutdowns.
3. Not all engine faults trigger a CEL - do you nave the ability to scan the OBD2 port?

The fact you have to disconnect and reconnect the battery to get the starter to respond is a key fact here....need to think this through...(deeper thought - is there a master auto reset breaker for the power to the fuse box...I don't think so...but maybe a fusable link that's buggy.)

As Dragon08 stated above - fuse connections can make these problems occur: Inspect/replace fuses 30 (PCM B), 20 (ETC), 23 (IGN), 25 (PCM 1) and 22 (INJECTOR). Get a can of electrical contact cleaner to spray in the fuse slots.

Replace Relay 56 (POWERTRAIN) if you haven't already.

I have to dive into the connector diagrams now...

 

Just thinking out loud here - I don't think this has anything to do with the PASSLOCK system - that only disables the fuel delivery while starting, it would still turn the starter and power everything else up. You changed the ignition switch, which assumes you'll need to do the PASSLOCK relearn, which you seem to have successfully done.

1. When the truck dies, does it seem to be a loss of fuel (sputters to a stop), or a loss of ignition (instant loss of power)?
2. What idiot lights come on on the dash when it dies? Or are you losing the lignts on the dash as well? I'm finding it strange you don't get a CEL on these shutdowns.
3. Not all engine faults trigger a CEL - do you nave the ability to scan the OBD2 port?

The fact you have to disconnect and reconnect the battery to get the starter to respond is a key fact here....need to think this through...(deeper thought - is there a master auto reset breaker for the power to the fuse box...I don't think so...but maybe a fusable link that's buggy.)

As Dragon08 stated above - fuse connections can make these problems occur: Inspect/replace fuses 30 (PCM B), 20 (ETC), 23 (IGN), 25 (PCM 1) and 22 (INJECTOR). Get a can of electrical contact cleaner to spray in the fuse slots.

Replace Relay 56 (POWERTRAIN) if you haven't already.

I have to dive into the connector diagrams now...

!. When it dies it just shuts off... No feeling of sputter nor surge
2. Lights remain same with no extras coming on...
3. I have a OBD2 and only codes are o2 sensors that I have replaced one at lower, but waiting on offset socket that hasn't came to change upper. Also have emission canister blah, blah, but read that once o2 sensors are changed it will go away...
4. I re-seated all fuses and relays in fuse block, seen no corrosion & is very clean. Switched relays around to areas that are associated to starting/running... I will use contact cleaner tomorrow in fuse block, mine is LPS brand so it doesn't melt nor harden the plastic.

 

My reply above was written before your reply - sorry if its not collecting your facts correctly. PASSLOCK is back on the table.

 

If the key is in the ignition with the engine off, and you open the drivers door, do you get the chiming to remind you the key is in the ignition?

 

Chimes are working with key in ignition lock...

 

The Body Control Module (BCM) in our trucks also has the duty of the "Power Mode Master" (PMM), which means it basically controls power distribution to a lot of things, to include the ignition, powertrain, etc. The BCM has its own ground connection (G301) which is under the carpet by the passenger door, just outside the passenger seat (based on the diagram I'm looking at). If this ground connection is bad, it will simultaneously drop power to a lot of things - to include disrupting the voltage signals from the ignition switch. The BCM is also like a computer - it effectively "boots" so disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it will effectively reset the BCM. I seem to remember reading that trucks that frequently get the carpet wet (cab leaks) will mess up this ground connection and cause this kind of chaos. Recommend you pull up the plastic panel under the passenger door, lift up the carpet and see what that ground connection looks like.

Good luck...
Ken

 

The Body Control Module (BCM) in our trucks also has the duty of the "Power Mode Master" (PMM), which means it basically controls power distribution to a lot of things, to include the ignition, powertrain, etc. The BCM has its own ground connection (G301) which is under the carpet by the passenger door, just outside the passenger seat (based on the diagram I'm looking at). If this ground connection is bad, it will simultaneously drop power to a lot of things - to include disrupting the voltage signals from the ignition switch. The BCM is also like a computer - it effectively "boots" so disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it will effectively reset the BCM. I seem to remember reading that trucks that frequently get the carpet wet (cab leaks) will mess up this ground connection and cause this kind of chaos. Recommend you pull up the plastic panel under the passenger door, lift up the carpet and see what that ground connection looks like.

Good luck...
Ken

Thanks I'll give it a try...

 

It would also be interesting to see if pulling the BCM fuse, instead of disconnecting the battery, results in the reboot and start condition. Could help narrow the issue down.

 

Will also identify fuse and try... Thanks!

 

...continuing this theory on the BCM: If this is a BCM ground problem, it still doesn't explain the constant 5-6 minute delay before the truck dies. You had stated you have an EVAP system error code. The EVAP system runs its diagnostics after a set of conditions are met, some of which are time driven (and what they are exactly is up there with finding the Holy Grail). When the PCM starts the EVAP system test, it sends power to the purge and vent valves, with power coming from the PCM. But some of the PCM power is provided by the BCM, so what I'm thinking is the power needed to open/close the purge/vent valves respectively, is pulling enough current from the BCM to pull the BCM voltage down (due to a ground problem) and then the truck dies. One of the criteria for the EVAP diagnostic is the truck is at its normal operating temperature. When you start the truck in the morning, it is much colder than it would be then when its been outside through the day. That will change the delay before the EVAP test starts based on your trip to work in the AM, versus your return trip in the PM. Also, resetting the BCM/PCM when you disconnect/reconnect the battery, I believe will force another EVAP test, so the repeat of the dying would be explained by this.

I can't think of any other thing going on in the truck based on a time interval that can explain the constant delay before it dies.

 

Thank you so much! I'll check today and post findings...

 

Found this link this morning researching all the "bells & whistles" people have tried to fix various PASSLOCK issues... It may be irrelevant to my current issues, but may have aggravated it without this? But then the aftermarket auto start was working fine since 12/20/2018 till a few weeks ago... UI BULLETIN # 26 (Cont'd) - GM UPFITTER

 

The document you found on aftermarket remote starter install is very significant - that wire was probably cut. Many people cut that wire to eliminate the PASSLOCK problems (versus going though the ignition switch replace and relearn process). Here's what I know about this that makes it significant:

1. The wire must be cut with the truck running and no security light to be effective in bypassing the PASSLOCK system.
2. Once the wire is cut, the security light will be on all the time (but your truck will not be inhibited by the security system). Is/was your security light on all the time? Does it work at all? (Some people pull the bulb.)
3. If by circumstance you need to do a relearn (i.e. you replaced the ignition switch), the wire must be reconnected to do the relearn process. This is why the paper you found discusses installing a switch.

Another thing that makes this "interesting" is that the time delay the PASSLOCK system imposes to keep your truck from starting (by disabling the fuel injectors) is 10 minutes, which is probably not coincidental to your initial reported 8-10 shutdown time.

So we have to assume and confirm the installer of the remote starter knew what they were doing and cut the wire. And we collectively didn't consider that in all of this. I'll also assume trying a PASSLOCK relearn process with the aftermarket starter installed will screw up the relearn process.

Here's what I recommend:
1. Disconnect the battery ground.
2. Inspect/clean up the BCM ground under the carpet.
3. Find that wire and reconnect it. I recommend soldering it for reliability.
4. Make sure the aftermarket remote starter is completely removed electrically from the truck.
5. Reconnect the battery and do the relearn process again.

Hopefully, this puts you back to the original state of the truck as it rolled off the assembly line and everything works. You can choose to bring the remote starter back in if you dare...

Ken

 

The document you found on aftermarket remote starter install is very significant - that wire was probably cut. Many people cut that wire to eliminate the PASSLOCK problems (versus going though the ignition switch replace and relearn process). Here's what I know about this that makes it significant:

1. The wire must be cut with the truck running and no security light to be effective in bypassing the PASSLOCK system.
2. Once the wire is cut, the security light will be on all the time (but your truck will not be inhibited by the security system). Is/was your security light on all the time? Does it work at all? (Some people pull the bulb.)
3. If by circumstance you need to do a relearn (i.e. you replaced the ignition switch), the wire must be reconnected to do the relearn process. This is why the paper you found discusses installing a switch.

Another thing that makes this "interesting" is that the time delay the PASSLOCK system imposes to keep your truck from starting (by disabling the fuel injectors) is 10 minutes, which is probably not coincidental to your initial reported 8-10 shutdown time.

So we have to assume and confirm the installer of the remote starter knew what they were doing and cut the wire. And we collectively didn't consider that in all of this. I'll also assume trying a PASSLOCK relearn process with the aftermarket starter installed will screw up the relearn process.

Here's what I recommend:
1. Disconnect the battery ground.
2. Inspect/clean up the BCM ground under the carpet.
3. Find that wire and reconnect it. I recommend soldering it for reliability.
4. Make sure the aftermarket remote starter is completely removed electrically from the truck.
5. Reconnect the battery and do the relearn process again.

Hopefully, this puts you back to the original state of the truck as it rolled off the assembly line and everything works. You can choose to bring the remote starter back in if you dare...

Ken

Did everything (did have to remove passenger seat) ... Under carpet was dry and clean upon disassemble... The aftermarket auto start if disabled by fuses and removal of their module... Truck PASSLOCK comes on solid now upon battery reconnect and never flashes now... When the truck runs it goes for 4-6 minutes and shuts off. I now notice that if I wait 15-30 seconds with the key off it will restart and run another period of time. Is there a way to totally dissipate the "whatever" to make the PASSLOCK light blink again? It did yesterday and quit after the 3-4 time of trying "this & that"... I did re-seat the BCM connector also... Thanks for helping me out...

 

At this point I have tried different PASSLOCK reset procedures... Even got my other set of keys to try... Removed battery cables (hooked together) for 10 minutes... disabled remote aftermarket starter system... Cleaned ground blocks at both fenders, new brass battery cable ends, swapped around relays in fuse block, cleaned ground for BCM under passenger seat, re-seated all fuses in fuse block, Re-seated ground cable to engine block, changed ignition switch whole assembly. Still the truck only runs for less than 10 minutes and shuts off! If you wait (with key off) for at least 15 seconds it will restart and run again for a short period... I have used the reset procedures of "many" and now I have a passlock light "ON" all the time! Yesterday it was flashing as the procedure said it would, but later in the day it started staying on! There have been a could times where when starting the starter stays engaged for a short period (few seconds) then stops... I've battled and beat cancer 3 times now and survived! But, this is PASSLOCK is taking me to an early grave... What was GM thinking?

 

Did you see if the wire was cut from the remote starter install?

 

It was hard to see into the dash area where they stuffed the wiring... They cut and spliced 3-4 wires as I can see because they just spiral wrapped them around each other and threw tape on them! No solder, nor solderless connectors. I don't see any detached, but I will solder them when things warm up... (suppose to snow today) Is there a chance the BCM module is going bad? I am thinking putting back in the original "black" ignition module to see if my PASSLOCK light goes out or acts different! I can do this without removing all the steering wheel components... Sorry about writing a "journal" on this, but told I'm "detailed" at work as a millwright/maintenance specialist. Proper communications is huge! Thanks everyone trying to help!

 

Possible on the BCM. You already checked the connecton and ground, so it would be internal. My question on that is why does return to functionality when you turn the key off for 15 seconds. If it was a thermal issue, I would expect it to stay broke for a little while, or at least fail quicker after restart.
A PCM tune can disable the Passlock. But we can't figure out if that is the root of the issue. Replacing the BCM may help, but those seems to be getting more challenging to find. And those are expensive options if you are not positive you will fix the problem.
If you put the original ignition switch back in, you will have to do the relearn process.

 

Yes, agree with you! Hopefully do this tomorrow and will post... Thanks

 

Everything I've recommended in this thread assumes the truck is in an "as built" condition electrically. You've now uncovered a "hack job" that cut into the wires that would directly cause this bad behavior. You absolutely need to get into that mess and restore the original connections, with solder, shrink tubing, properly bundled - this is a major reliability issue - quality counts. And yes, this could have effected the BCM, but lets be optimists at this point. Putting the old ignition module might help you since I don't think it was bad at this point (I think the wiring was the root cause), and that would bring in the old resistance value that the BMC looks for in validating the PASSLOCK starting sequence. I wouldn't try the relearn process until the wiring is straightened out.

 

Another day in Ohio heading to work 20 miles away with no problem... Waiting with truck running in parking lot and roughly at 36 minutes and some change the truck shut off... Finished day truck started, made it back home , left truck running and shut off 7 minutes later... I agree that I need to address the "hack" wiring job & once our supposed snow day Tuesday is finished I'll get it done as you stated and re-install the black ignition contact unit... Keep you posted, I owe you a cup of coffee!

 

Getting you back into a truck you can rely on is all the thanks I need....

 

...thinking about it, you might want to keep the new ignition module since the original is well past the point where the typical PASSLOCK problems start creeping in. You have to do a relearn process either way.

 

That's the issue right now... I can't get it to reset... Where it said to disconnect battery for "x" amount of minutes depending who's link it is... Then it says turn to start (try to start), and return to "ON" and let "ON" for 10 minutes till PASSLOCK light goes out... Repeat 2 additional times w/30 second OFF each time, and it should re-start... There now is never a flashing of the PASSLOCK light during reset, it starts also after every 10 minute cycle... It is like the system is not wanting to re-set or even acknowledges it...

 

Man I hope that is the case. Like Ken said, get it back to stock condition and see if that solves the intermittent issue. (It may take another re-learn event)
If the truck runs all week, great. Now you have to decide if you want to risk a proper install with your starter unit, or just call it done.
If the issue persists after the truck is returned to stock condition, then we circle back and start deep diving the IGN circuits.
Whatever we learn here we need to share with 05withan18. He has random shut offs too....

 

Man I hope that is the case. Like Ken said, get it back to stock condition and see if that solves the intermittent issue. (It may take another re-learn event)
If the truck runs all week, great. Now you have to decide if you want to risk a proper install with your starter unit, or just call it done.
If the issue persists after the truck is returned to stock condition, then we circle back and start deep diving the IGN circuits.
Whatever we learn here we need to share with 05withan18. He has random shut offs too....

Yes, agree this should be shared! It is interesting, but very taxing on my mind & body! I'm not 20 year old kid anymore...

 

I just spent some quality time with the installation manual of your aftermarket remote starter. The installer had to do some serious "voodoo" to get that thing to work around the PASSLOCK system, and accommodate the logic of three different control signals from the ignition switch (which aren't as simple as Acc, Run, and Crank). Something that crossed my mind reading the manual options for programming the device is that it may have dropped its programming from memory (extended dead car battery time) and reset to a factory default mode: This would have screwed up your world...

 

Found this video on You Tube last night where a fellow is installing my remote in a Silverado truck... He really seems to talk it through... https://youtu.be/Rq0LKtWFhyI

 

New day today (Tuesday)... Took off work to completely remove aftermarket auto start... Repair "hack job" that was done on wiring under dash! With that said and done I tied to do a PASSLOCK relearn... I turned the key and the truck started right up! No, flashing PASSLOCK light or initial stall out... Unhook battery cable and let set and tried again... Started right up! I don't know how I can do a relearn with it acting this way... I took the steering column apart again and re-installed the old ignition module (black component) and tried relearn again... The truck started right up! At this point the remote start is completely out of the truck, I have changed out the ignition switch component and the engine runs for about 4 minutes and shuts off... I wait 15-30 seconds and the truck will restart with the key every time! I hooked up my code reader and it had P0030 (HO2S Heater Control Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1), P0449 (Evaporative Emission System Vent Valve/Solenoid Circuit) and now PO601 (Internal Control Module Memory Check Sum Error)... I was in the process of changing the upper/lower O2 sensors last week and had to wait on an offset socket for the Upper O2 sensor... I got it today finally and installed as my reading said replace both and it should also remove the P0449 code with the P0030... I erased the codes again and at this point I only have the P0601 (Internal Memory Error)... I am in the process of trying to reset this through negative battery unhook followed my turning the ignition switch to "ON" praying this helps!

 

Well shoot. That may mean the PCM is the culprit. Either internal, or power/ground connections to and from.
It is possible that the resistor in both switches is similar enough that the Passlock does not recognize the difference. Possible..
Or the remote starter installer tuned it out of the PCM.
Searching around here. P0601 seems to point to a PCM reprogram or replacement.

I would need to defer to the PCM gurus on the best plan of action.

 

Well shoot. That may mean the PCM is the culprit. Either internal, or power/ground connections to and from.
It is possible that the resistor in both switches is similar enough that the Passlock does not recognize the difference. Possible..
Or the remote starter installer tuned it out of the PCM.
Searching around here. P0601 seems to point to a PCM reprogram or replacement.

I would need to defer to the PCM gurus on the best plan of action.

Any help appreciated!

 

Took truck out went 26 miles (furthest I've driven) thinking "maybe?" The PASSLOCK light was still on, no codes on my tester... Then it quit! Pulled off road and sat the usual 15-30 seconds with "key OFF" and it started right back up... Drove another 12 miles and it quit! Again, started right back up and made home with 43 miles total only to set in driveway and have it die again... Codes showing were the P0601 (memory issue) and the P0449 (evaporative vent issue)... I have no clue what direction to go! They say you can't just buy and install a Power Control Module without having it "tuned" to the vehicle? I can find used, but are they "plug & play" beings they were already in use? I haven't given up on it yet! I did pull the driver's seat for more access and did clean out all the goodies...