1 word INDY!! That guy knows everything about suspensions. He actually helped a guy put a 4 link for coilovers in an S10 not to long ago.

 

sweet I need to do something man... my ride is just terrible

 

Jonny and I talked about it briefly last time we met. I know for sure at the very least you'll have to relocate the gas tank or make a fuel cell.

 

yea if you want a 4 link you will need to move the tank. YOu can do a cell (what IM gonna do) or you can just move the stock tank behind the axle. Itll fit

 

You'd probably be better off back-halving the truck so you can beef the chassis up at the same time since you have a nice heard of ponies under the hood. You basically put your axle where you want it, decide what ride height and how much travel you want then you figure out the best way to mount your links and shocks.

I know this probably isn't much help but there are many ways to go about this and I haven't looked at my frame hard enough to give any placement advice, I figured I would just throw some of what you're looking at for work so you have an idea. Indy is your best bet for laying everything out since he's actually been through it and is VERY knowledgable on suspensions plus I'm sure he has most the frame measurements handy. You also have some other options over a 4 link as well which may give you the same results with less work on the fabrication side of things. Like stated before the gas tank will have to be relocated for a traditional 4 link. There are also universal kits that may be able to make your life easier as well.

 

yea I've been looking at universal kits but I just don't know enough to be able to just order something and make it work.

 

I wouldn't buy a universal kit jsut to play with.

When Jonny and I talked it out, we were considering a parallel 4link with watts link and coilovers. You'd have to ask him about the particulars.

My own idea to do a better rear suspension was to run DHP 2 link with a watts link (if he ever gets the 2 link done) or to run a set of lower bars in plac of the stock leafs, and a wishbone up top that bolts to the gas tank crossmember, and then coils out back, or some variation there in.

 

This one?

That's the articulating one. The other is plain. Works well with coilovers.

 

i mean it doesn't have to be a 4-link i just want to do all the things I listed in original post.

 

Well my race car uses a 3 link w/panhard and coilovers with 129hp to 1200lbs and it handles like a dream great traction and I only break shit because I have to use weaker links so my expensive ass rear end doesn't get bent if I bump the wall. This may be easier to set-up on our trucks as well over a 4 link.

 

Ok, here's my opinion. Don't mean to step on any toes, but....

There is no need to backhalve our trucks. The frame is completely boxed from the factory, and plenty strong for anything you can throw at it. There are stamping holes that can be filled in if desired. If you're talking about serious power 7-800+, you'll want to fill any holes in the frame. Pull the cab and bed, and fill everything with 3/16" plate. Make your plates much larger than the holes you're filling, nd burn them in good.

Second, no offense AceX, but everyone recommends a watts link because it's the cool thing to do. For a bagged truck, they're great due to to extreme suspension travel. On a coilover truck, they are unnecessary and just get in the way, since the coilovers need to go right where the links for the watts are. They create more moving parts than necessary, and add complexity to a system that you want to be as simple as possible. Just run a long panhard, parallel to they ground at ride height, and you'll be fine. This is only needed on a parallel four link or two link.

 

Agreed, there is no reason you cannot do a 4 link'ish/type w/o chopping the whole back half of the frame.

TxcoloradoSS did a 4 link'ish/type set up with QA1s on his 9 sec street driven rado. I will see if I can find those pics and post em!

I was/will also eliminate my leaf spring set up when I finally have the funds to do my swap as well.

 

you didn't step on any toes I just threw that out there because I wasn't sure what his future plans are with the drivetrain. Also if he's running it at a track he could narrow the rear frame for bigger tires like one member already has.

 

If you want to run bigger tires, then a backhalf is an option. You could also build pockets and section the frame. For a 5.3, even with the blower, he should be able to fit big enough tires under the truck to perform fine. The 10.5" tire classes are running in the 7's easily, so on a mild 5.3, anything bigger than what fits in the stock wells would be mostly for looks.

 

Now for the actual suspension, here's my opinion.

If you plan on driving the truck hard, or taking it to the strip, or doing and auto-x or any type of racing, four link is the best option, period. I'm assuming you still plan on driving it on the street, so I'll leave out trailing arms or ladder bars.

With the four link, you have two basic options (although there are hundreds of nuances and variations). First is the parallel design with panhard. This is the easiest to build, provided you're accurate with a tape. The bars have to be absolutely parallel throughout their range of movement. This design relies on the fact that parallel lines converge at infinity to work. If you're off just a little bit, you'll have issues.

Second is my favorite design, the triangulated four. This design requires no extra links or members to provide lateral support to the axle. It also requires a firm grasp of basic physics and dynamics, such as weight transfer and moments, and a lot of trig to set up. Fortunately, these calculations have been done over and over by many people, and the basic setup is relatively straightforward. I can help with any calculations needed.

The only downside to the four link is the need to relocate the gas tank and muffler.

 

Now for the actual suspension, here's my opinion.

If you plan on driving the truck hard, or taking it to the strip, or doing and auto-x or any type of racing, four link is the best option, period. I'm assuming you still plan on driving it on the street, so I'll leave out trailing arms or ladder bars.


With the four link, you have two basic options (although there are hundreds of nuances and variations). First is the parallel design with panhard. This is the easiest to build, provided you're accurate with a tape. The bars have to be absolutely parallel throughout their range of movement. This design relies on the fact that parallel lines converge at infinity to work. If you're off just a little bit, you'll have issues.

Second is my favorite design, the triangulated four. This design requires no extra links or members to provide lateral support to the axle. It also requires a firm grasp of basic physics and dynamics, such as weight transfer and moments, and a lot of trig to set up. Fortunately, these calculations have been done over and over by many people, and the basic setup is relatively straightforward. I can help with any calculations needed.


The only downside to the four link is the need to relocate the gas tank and muffler.

I think the triangulated is probably what I'm going for. but I have very minimal fabrication skills. lol how much would you charge to build one for me if I was to come to you. I'm looking for a bone to be thrown my way, cause I know if I take it to a shop around here I'll get gouged.

 

Next is the three link. There are three types:

A true three link has three straight links, and requires a panhard. This is really a poor design, and puts a lot of stress into the axle housing.

Next is a wishbone three, which uses straight lower links, and a Y-shaped "wishbone" upper link. A true wishbone is the best option among the three links, and requires you to relocate the gas tank and exhaust also to accomodate the wishbone. A full wishbone is rarely seen because by the time you relocate everything, you might as well built a 4-link.

Finally, you have an offset wishbone, which has two lower links, and a smaller wishbone offset to one side (passenger side on our trucks). With this design, you can keep your stock tank. The downside is assymetrical stresses on the axle. This is the design I have on my colorado, but for a high performance application, it may not be the best choice.

It should be noted that kinematically (that is, the way they work), a wishbone three link and a triangulated four link accomplish the exact same thing. You can think of the wishbone as the two upper bars of the four link, just sharing one common mounting point. The benefit of the four link is the ability to fine tune the suspension to your prticular needs, and to get a more optimal roll center.

 

First pic..........more to follow!

 

that looks like a ladder bar set-up with a track bar

 

Second!

 

Here is my buddies S10, it's being setup to run autocross, and also be a daily driver. It's a triangulated 4 link with coilovers, and pocketed frame. The frame was pocketed to fit 19 x 12 Z06 wheels. The stock frame has been boxed up front (still need to box the rear). We have also added several crossmembers to further strengthen the frame.

 

If this truck gets autocrossed your going to find that the upper bars are not angled enough and the rearend will move side to side and/or chew up the bushings. If they are cheap ass daystar bushings they will get spongy first then start tearing at the edges.

 

Someof the setup:

Finding bar convergence (i-k):

Stress testing driveshaft hoop and forwrd crossmember:

 

Damn you went full retard on me :lol:

 

Haha, just trying to show what can go into something like this. You don't need CAD to build a suspension, but the design is a lot more involved than just welding some bars in.

 

Indy thanks for all the info... my ultimate goal is just to have a nice handling truck that can handle the power i'm taking but also provide a comfortable ride.....im not interested in taking it to the track but I do hit up the mountains a lot, so it will see some auto x type driving.

 

and txcolorado's is a ladder bar setup so he has maximum traction..but sacrifices some ride quality.....ride quality first then traction. I don't plan on getting into the 9's with my truck but I at least want to throw down about 500-600hp should I choose.

 

I know this isn't a colorado, but its a build up of a 4 link with coilovers

Banker's 4link and axle narrowing thread - Chevy Truck Forum | GMC Truck Forum - GmFullsize.com

 

wow he just started the thread today...I'll definitely keep my eye on that thread....also if I'm going to go through the trouble of 4-linking it should I just bag it?

 

if your going to be racing the truck I would stick to adjustable coilovers

 

I would. not that much more work. just gotta weld some bag plates in and ur good

 

kinda what I was thinking. but then again I dunno if I want the maintenance involved.

 

No offense taken Indy. I only suggested it on the premise that a watts link will keep the axle centered through the entire suspension travel.