Turn your bars down about 1"

 

Agreed, you'll thank us later when it saves your cv boots and wheel bearings from those ridiculous angles you have the cv at right now. Right now your UCA is most likely sitting on the droop stop and prevent any more camber change.

 

I can see the cv's in the picture and take it from someone with a pile of cv's in their garage, they don't like much angle because when you turn you put another directional angle on them and it makes them work a lot harder. Add in a little 4 low and bang you either lose the driveshaft up front, cv, or wheel bearing whichever is the weak point in the situation.

If the UCA isn't touching the stop then you may want to ditch the spacers for the bj flip. I have my truck with the 4" kit installed and maxed out as far as the cv's will let me on crank with 3/4" diff spacers on top of the lift kits 4" spacers and I still have adjustment with no spacers or bj flip. The bj flip made my truck handle funny plus some odd camber in travel so I went back to factory.

 

I can see the cv's in the picture and take it from someone with a pile of cv's in their garage, they don't like much angle because when you turn you put another directional angle on them and it makes them work a lot harder.

I love this part. Definitely shows the knowledge is from experience.

 

Yeah I understand. I haven't noticed any funny handling but I may be biased since my truck rode like shit before the flip. Suspension articulation seems fine to me but then again I've only driven it for two days.

So possible solutions:
1. De-load the torsion bars
2. Remove the spacer
3. Combination of the two?

 

If the tires will clear, try what Gway said first, uncrank it some. You will eventually tear up stuff with it set that way, not to mention your tires will not last very long at all. You will chew the outsides right off.

 

Alright that sounds reasonable. I assuming I'll need to be realigned after cranking down a bit?

 

Yes, realignment will be needed.

 

Alright guys, thanks for the help. I'm going to take it to my shop tomorrow for an alignment after I crank it down a bit.

 

Consider if you are going to remove the ball joint spacer as well. If so, do it before the alignment as that too will force an alignment necessity. Do what work you feel is necessary, give it a day to be sure your ride height is close to level side to side then get your alignment.

I don't know why, or understand the theory but I read on a Nissan forum about torsion bar lifting/lowering an Xterra and it was suggested to do your final adjustment as a lift instead of a lower. Example, if you want to lower the truck some, lower it down to lower than what you want and finalize that with a crank back up. I'd suggest lowering 1.25" then cranking it back up for a net lowering of 1" (if 1" is your proposed amount).

Maybe one of those smart guys above can say if that's just a bunch of crap, or if there is a valid reasoning behind it.

 

Well if the spacer is solely causing the issue then of course I would remove it. Otherwise, I'd like to leave it there considering it's beneficial to have at a higher crank to help alleviate bind at the ball joints. As much as I would like to stay cranked at 3.5", I feel like the extra .5"-1" is making the difference regarding my misalignment. I'm hesitant to make any rash decisions though considering I'm not entirely sure what's causing the problem.

 

From the pics it looks like the top of the tire is out. I can't remember which is positive and negative. If you lower them down alittle you should be fine. I had trouble aligning mine pre sas with 2.5" crank. I put a 1/2" spacer in. You also need to watch your UCAs. Mine had cracked when I was going through what to throw away after my sas.

 

Positive camber: Bottom of tires slant towards the chassis \ \----/ /

Negative camber: Bottom of tires slant away from the chassis / /----\ \

 

Well then I'd say drop the spacer and see where ur at. Most people have problems with negative camber.

 

Alright I try that first. It would be awesome if that put it into acceptale ranges; no need for realignment then.

 

Unloading the torsion bars is going to make the problem worse, remove the spacer. Turning the torsion bars up will cause negative camber, if you let them down, you are going to cause more positive camber. If you wanna test it out, throw a jack under the front and jack it up, it the tires straighten up, then lowering the truck will do the opposite.

 

Yeah that makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the insight. Removing the spacer should have little to no effect on the toe and caster angles, correct?

 

Can't say for sure, I would say it could affect either or both, but will it be enough to throw them out of spec, that I can't answer. If it was me, i'd have the alignment checked, it'll be cheaper to check it than to replace the front tires, and you'll still need to make sure that you get the camber in spec anyway.

 

Alright sound's reasonable. I'll be removing the spacer tomorrow and taking it to my alignment shop. I'll report back afterwards.

 

I'm interested in what you find out works. I'm planning to do a TB crank to 2-2.5 inches and a shackle lift in back. Then if I decide I need it I may add a body lift to clear tires if I end up with them later. Also this thread has confirmed my need to get the lifetime alignment when I lift it. LOL

 

You will be further ahead to find a shop to know what they are doing so it can be done right the first time.

I am BJ Flipped, and spacers because I ran out of UCA clearance. I have a level Z85 with 1.5" shackles.

 

Ya. Pull the spacer off. Everyone usually has the problem that the uca is pulled all the way out and still have negative. If you can't get it far enough in with the spacer. I ran a honemade one for a lil while, really doesn't help much, I did notice my uca was cracked after a bit and took it off, the crack hasn't spread any

 

So I removed the spacer and had it realigned this afternoon. Camber is well within proper ranges now, but my UCAs are resting on the droop stops. With the exception of suspension articulation, are there any other negative effects of leaving it this way for the time being?

 

Uca's cracking when the front suspension tries to unload weight during travel and slams into the bumpstop bracket. If you seriously want it that high leave it, but expect a crappy ride and to replace front end parts very quickly as you tear stuff up under normal driving, go offroad and its going to be much worse. Most all these guys are speaking from experience and time/money spent

 

Man, save money and get a real lift system like Rancho, Skyjacker or CST. My $0.02.