It appears that you have a broken wire in the hinge area of the driver's door. You will need to take the door off the hinges to gain access. Not too difficult, as you only need to remove the retainers and lift the door up. No messing with the hinge mounts or adjustments. Of course you will have to figure some way to deal with an unwieldy door, once it is off the hinges.

 

x2 on the broken wire, my truck did the exact same thing and sure enough in the boot there was a broken wire, problem solved

 

Any idea on what color the wires are in the hinge area.
Don't really want to take the door off, might have to get creative since my truck has a lift.

 

your going to need a friend to hold the door or i just took an old car tire and balanced it there myself, the wire your going to be looking for is a pink wire. for me the wire was actually on the outside of the bundle but if you need to find it best way is to just flex the bundle

 

And this will be on the drivers door?

 

There isn't any way to access the wiring in the hinge area without taking the door off the hinges. I think on your truck, you will be looking for a gray wire. It will be going to the smaller of the two connectors.

It will be the driver's door. The wire in question goes from the lock switch, through the driver's door hinge area, to a splice under the instrument panel, through the passenger door hinge area, to the passenger door lock. In the splice, there are two wires for the rear door locks. The wire for the driver's door lock goes directly from the switch. The clue here is the splice, where the two wires for the rear door locks connect. If the break was on the passenger side of the splice, (in the passenger door hinge area) the rear doors would still lock.

If you had an Extended Cab or Regular Cab, it would be more difficult to determine which side the break was on. In that case, the most used door would be the suspect.

 

Alright thank you guys, I'll try and pull the door after I get off work today.
Would be nice to have working locks after going almost 3 years without them.
Trying to work on stuff in minnesota is a pain, especially not having a heated garage haha.

 

Let us know what you find. Thanks

 

Well I got it fixed today, it was the pink wire right at the splice.

I got a little creative in holding the door as my pictures show haha.

Thanks for the help!

 

Well, you have to work with what you have. The "pink" wire confuses me because the schematics don't show that color anywhere in the circuit. Glad you found the problem and thanks for the update and pictures.

 

Awesome deal for you and very crafty door hoist too! From a former MN resident transplanted by Uncle Sam - kudos to your for getting the problem solved.

 

Oh ya, the four wheeler has definitely pulled its weight over the winter.. i figured using the winch on it would be the easiest way to hold it while I fixed it haha.
:cheers:

 

Update...
I took it for a drive and now the drivers window doesn't work, and the locks don't work on the key fob and only function when the key is turned to the on position..
I tested everything when I had it all put together and now it's not working..
Sigh
Guess I have to take the door off again.

 

Unless some of the other wires were weak and broke during the handling of the door, I think something, the door switch module or the BCM could have a glitch. Try disconnecting the battery for an hour or so and see what happens. If that doesn't fix it, I'll try to find something in the wiring circuits that would cause the symptoms.

 

Don't jump in too deep yet...these GM BCM's are a PITA. You're showing signs tell-tale signs of the computer re-learning its environment so drive it for a day or so (lock doors w/key). Hopefully, after a few miles + on/off cycles the controls will come back to life.

 

My problem ended up being a broken wire in the drivers door, plus a passlock issue..
About 8000 resets and it's been good ever since!

 

The original post describes the issue I have been chasing today.

I will have to look for a broken wire in the drivers door hinge area.

2004 Extended Cab; 119,000 miles.
Passenger door lock mechanism is "dead"; but the passenger door switch will operate the driver's side.
Passenger door lock mechanism will actuate when sent a signal from the drivers side power cable.
Windows operate with either side's switches.

 

Update: found the broken wire inside the wiring harness in the drivers door hinge area.

Never would've figure that out without this site. And yes, it was the brown wire.

thanks everyone