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Engine oil flush with tranny fluid?

5.2K views 21 replies 17 participants last post by  EZ  
#1 ·
Just wondering if anybody has tried this on their rado yet to clean out the gunk and crap prior to putting in fresh oil.

If you haven't heard of this, it's when you drain 1 to 1-1/2 quarts of the old oil and replace with about 1 to 1-1/2 quarts of tranny fluid, still with the old oil filter, then start it and let it idle for about 10-20 minutes. Then drain it and put the new oil and filter on. The detergents in the tranny fluid are said to be very affective in cleaning out the gunk in the engine.
 
#3 ·
Not so sure i would do that. For teh same reasons you wouldnt put oil in your tranny fluid. One's mean to be compressed, the others not. But hey...thats just me! lol
 
#4 ·
You aren't compressing the oil... I know many people that have been doing this for years in their street driven cars as well as their high performance race cars. I'm just curious to see if anybody has done it with their rado/canyon yet and what they've found.
 
#5 ·
hmm never heard of that. dont think id do it though. One time when I had my K5 I accidentally put a 1/4 qt of tranny fluuid in the oil. I just left it though. It wasnt much considering how much engine oil was in there
 
#9 ·
i think that maybe an outdated practice. ive heard about something similar from a couple of old guys at my dads shop but with the quality of the oil and the detergents already in it theres no need to flush your engine. best thing to do is change it on a regular basis.

but...if you do it pics or a vid would be cool. LOL
 
#13 ·
Yeah but if it doesn't hurt to do this, then I'm all for it even though I keep on top of my oil changes. I just want this engine to last as long as possible so I think this is preventative maintenance.
 
#10 ·
You wanna see the stuff that collects in these crankcases? lol.. need an updated picture of the filters?
 
#12 ·
I did this back when i had my Dakota in Texas...I crossed a creek and got stuck..ended up with water in the block. looked like a freakin chocolate milkshake...one of the guys i was renting my shop with suggested flushing the engine out with transmission fluid. I had never heard of this before then. I flushed it a couple of times and changed the oil filter each time i did it..cleaned EVERYTHING out..i have since talked to many ppl over the years who flush their engines out with tranny fluid..it has a detergent base and works.
 
#15 ·
Yeah I'm with you on this one Scott!
 
#17 · (Edited)
As I started reading this, I thought what about diesel fuel? Scott referenced it in Kerosene. I used diesel fuel at the ratio you posted above but not on anything newer than 1990. Since port fuel injection, a lot less crap gets by the cylinders and into the oil. Carbed cars usually burned rich, cause unburned gas to wash the cylinder walls adding carbon deposits and gasoline to mix into the oil. More of a problem on the older cars, hense the recommended oil change every 3000 miles.

And like dean says, you might want to leave those deposits alone. They are kind of like blood clots in your veins. You want to dissolve them without breaking them free as the can kill your engine like clots can kill you.
 
#18 ·
I agree with a number of post it was once considered a maintenance help. I grew up in a taxi cab family my stepfather owned one of the largest taxi fleets in western NC and I worked with my uncle who was the mechanic for the fleet and we did this but that was in the 50's and early 60's. I agree with Unfettered that with fuel injection and also advancements with petroleum based oils and synthetic oils now widely used that this is no longer a problem. Also there are a number of products in the marketplace that will flush your engine like say seafoam.
 
#19 ·
There is no reason why the transmission fluid would not work. The ratio I was taught was 5:1 from my grandfather. So my fourbangers would only get 1/2 quart of Transmission oil. I used to use this method once a year on my cars until I heard of Seafoam. I now use Seafoam once a year, but as all stated above, with the advancement of oil and synths I probably don't have to do it.
 
#21 ·
just dump some seafoam into the crankcase and be done with it :shrug:

in Crankcase Oil

Sea Foam Motor Treatment may be used in an oil crankcase 2 separate ways, depending on your needs and expectations. Sea Foam Motor Treatment is most commonly used as a pre-service, old oil residue re-liquefier / cleaner and moisture drier. It can also be used as an after-service oil additive. In either application, Sea Foam Motor Treatment will safely and slowly re-liquefy old oil residue. Each method is described below:

1. As a pre service cleaner for old oil residue, sticky rings or valve train noise, pour 1 ½ ounces of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the engine oil crankcase for EACH quart of oil capacity, including filter. Drive a MINIMUM of 30 minutes/miles, MAXIMUM 100 miles, and then do your oil change service – Lube, Oil & Filter (LOF). This begins the process of safely/slowly re liquefying the old oil residue so contaminants may flow and be filtered. This also makes your old oil dirtier, quickly, so a LOF service is necessary when the oil gets dirty. Great for Turbocharged & Supercharged applications where oils deteriorate so quickly due to heat, and leave those residues that NEED CLEANING.
2. As an after service additive into fresh oil, nearly fresh oil, or oil (used condition) that is NOT ready to be changed (based on mileage since last oil change), put the same amount of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the crankcase as described above, and then regularly monitor your oil for color and clarity. Set a predetermined schedule for checking the oil condition on a mileage, timed, or event basis (like every time you add fuel, etc.) to determine when an oil service is necessary. Monitoring of the oil for color and clarity will tell you when it is time to do an oil change service. NOTE: Do not exceed 3,000 miles without changing the oil.

Sea Foam is safe to use with all synthetic oils. 100% synthetic oils, and blends of synthetic and petroleum-based oils, were engineered and are manufactured to be 100% compatible with petroleum based oils, all brands, and vice/versa. Without this compatibility, oil manufacturers and engineers would be liable for the results of mixing non-compatible lubricants. Since Sea Foam ONLY contains petroleum oils, it is entirely compatible with synthetic oils.

Remember! When Using Sea Foam in Your Crankcase:

* Check your oil and monitor its color & clarity to determine need for LOF service!
* Change your oil when it gets dirty!
 
#22 ·
might have to try the seafoam in the oil and see if it gets rid of my diesel knock. if that doesnt work maybe try the tranny fluid.