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Somebody once wrote an interesting piece about the cooling system. One of the members here. I think it could have been DJB.

He wrote something like "The thermostat only control the minimum operating temperature". Essentially meaning that once it's hot, it's going to stay hot. When the thermostat is fully open, it's then useless for keeping engine cool. Therefore, if you are above 185 degree normally then the thermostat is open anyway, making it no different than the stat you have installed. Does it warm up a tad more relatively, of course. But once hot, it's hot and the thermostat will do nothing to cool it back down. But it will not keep you truck cooler while towing.

Get a hydrometer to check the specific gravity of the coolant to determine your boil over temperature. Change the radiator cap if you haven't already (I think you said you have).

My truck will hit 215 in high ambient, in traffic with A/C. I disagreed with that when I purchased the truck a couple years ago. I purchased an Ultragauge only because I wanted to know my water temperature. I later learned how common/typical it is to run at this temperature.

I normally hit around 196 under normal summer conditions. 90+ ambient. A/C maybe on. Running around town. 188 when it's not that hot outdoors.
 
2006 Service Manual (Isuzu, I350, 4wd).

Thermostat Diagnosis:

Thermostat Test Procedure Using Tempilsticks

The coolant thermostat can be tested using a temperature (tempil) stick. The temperature stick is a pencil like device. It has a wax material containing certain chemicals which melt at a given temperature. Temperature sticks can be used to determine a thermostat's operating range, by rubbing 87°C (188°F) and 97°C (206°F) sticks on the thermostat housing (4).

Tools Required
J 24731 Tempilstick

Use a tempilstick in order to find the opening and the closing temperatures of the coolant thermostat.
• J 24731-188 tempilstick melts at 87°C (188°F). The thermostat should begin to open at 90°C (194°F).

• J 24731-206 tempilstick melts at 97°C (206°F). The thermostat should be fully open at 107°C (225°F).

Replace the coolant thermostat if it does not operate properly between this temperature range. Refer to Engine Coolant Thermostat Replacement .
 
A properly functioning t-stat does one thing and one thing only.....determine minimum coolant temp. The rest of the cooling system components, their condition and driving conditions determine maximum coolant temp.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
A properly functioning t-stat does one thing and one thing only.....determine minimum coolant temp. The rest of the cooling system components, their condition and driving conditions determine maximum coolant temp.

that's what i had initially thought, but the changes that i had noticed had me questioning at what temp the higher thermostat is fully open and maybe it doesn't reach that point under normal driving conditions, making it seem more drastic when it does. basically overcomplicating things.

The more i think about it the more likely it seems that scale buildup may have caused the difference that i noticed and that i'm just blaming the thermostat because the temps didn't get so high on the original. i never factored in the age of the truck until now.

Anyway, my initial problem with the spiking temps and whirring sound were in fact caused by the defective clutch fan so i'll be returning that tomorrow. I haven't had any issues since re-installing the original so i'll just leave it in. Temps stay steady at 199 on the hwy and peak at 203 driving local or sitting at idle even with a/c on.

Thank you everyone for your input.


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damn clutch fan is spastic anyway.
At idle and low speeds it barely moves enough air to cool the engine, and it doesn't move enough air to keep the A/C cool.
 
Poor old t-stat is always presumed to be the culprit when coolant temps begin to rise. The funny thing is, the t-stat is the only cooling system component that anyone can easily test, yet nobody does.:shrug:

It takes about 10 minutes to test the t-stat in a pan of water on top of the stove using a cooking thermometer. Bringing the water temp up slowly (the same way the coolant temp rises in a cold/running motor) will show the coolant temp at which the stat begins to open (within 2*-3* of it's rating) and will show the temp when the stat reaches wide open (about 1/4" to 3/8" of movement). Wide open should be reached 15*-20* above the stat's open temp rating. The piston should move slowly and smoothly between it's 1st open temp and wide open. The t-stat will have an infinite number of open positions between closed and wide open. If the stat does not meet these parameters, it is faulty.

Since testing a stat is so easy, always test, even a new stat, before installing it in the motor.:thumbup2:
 
LOL, To get the thermostat in a pan of water on the stove, it first has to be removed, and in the case of the Atlas engines, I don't know that I would describe that as an "easy" task. The 5.3 is a breeze. I have removed the thermostat on a 4.2 a number of times and it wasn't all happiness.
 
LOL, To get the thermostat in a pan of water on the stove, it first has to be removed, and in the case of the Atlas engines, I don't know that I would describe that as an "easy" task. The 5.3 is a breeze. I have removed the thermostat on a 4.2 a number of times and it wasn't all happiness.
I was thinking exactly the same thing - why go through the process of removal to test when you should just install a replacement if you've gone through the work.

Then I read the end where it is suggested to test a NEW stat. Point being, test the new stat prior to installation so you don't have questions once it's installed and seemingly not the correct temperature.
 
I was thinking exactly the same thing - why go through the process of removal to test when you should just install a replacement if you've gone through the work.

Then I read the end where it is suggested to test a NEW stat. Point being, test the new stat prior to installation so you don't have questions once it's installed and seemingly not the correct temperature.
Yep, that would be my point.
 
There is a TSB stating the gauge is flunctuating due to air pockets in the system which is perceived as an overheating condition and engineering is currently working on a new coolant bottle to correct this concern.
 
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