If you get under the truck, you can follow the torsion bars about halfway back and you'll see a big bolt pointing down at you that increases/decreases the torque on the torsion bars. You simply turn the bolt counter clockwise (lefty loosey) to take pressure off the torsion bars. NOTE: It's much easier with the front end jacked up and count the number of turns so you can get it back the way it was before you started. Most major auto parts stores will loan you a bearing press. These kits are pretty sufficient for accomplishing the task, but your "grunt" replaces the hydraulics that a shop would use. If you spray a little liquid wrench - or whatever your penetrating oil preference is - all around the bushing the night before, it will make things much easier. My best advice would be to go ahead and check all the bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, hub bearings and even the brake pads and plan on replacing everything that needs attention while you're at it because you will be tearing into the front end pretty deeply. Keep in mind that you have two sides on the front end that are exactly alike. So, if you have problems, you can look at the other side to see how it all fits together. Here's a video that will help understand how the torsion bars work and how to "unload" them and get them out.
https://youtu.be/YbQFezZllDs

 

Thank you for the reply! About 3 months ago I replaced the ball joints, hubs and sway bar links so they should be good. I didn’t think about checking O’rielly’s for a bushing press. I’ll check with them in the morning. Thank you again!

 

Yeah, that's how it usually works! I was trying to help you get it all at one time while you had it all apart, but I was too late! I hate to beat ball joints apart after I've recently installed them. One thing on that video that was a good idea, but one that I've never thought of is to disconnect the front shocks on one end to allow the front end to drop a little more so you can "unload" as much pressure on the torsion bars as possible. That leaves less of the "iffy" work with whatever you use to get the keepers out and remove the torsion bars out. I hope my explanation and the video gave you a little better understanding and a greater comfort level for taking on the torsion bars. There's nothing really complicated about that design, it's just not as common and most of us have more experience and a better understanding of a coil spring front end. Torsion bars are a little more "hidden" and we don't necessarily grasp the concept as quickly until we dig in to them.
You've got this though! Have fun with it and let us know how it goes.

 

I will have to remeber that about the shock.. As far as the ball joints go, I found you can lossen the top one a little and let the suspension put preasure on it whle you "tap" the knuckle with BFH or a brass punch adn it will pop out pretty easily! Once that's out I just unbolt the lower ball joint and leave it on the knuckle. I always seem to have my biggest issue seperating the lower anyways and I think its easier to get out of the knuckle on my bench. Thank you again for the advice. I am going to replace the seals in the next few days and then assess the control arm bushings. I am honestly sort of hoping they will last for abit longer as the H3 suspension swap is in the plans for next spring..

 

Shop I went to wanted 578. I'm thinking I should have taken it considering what I found.
But Yeah I pulled the lower shock bolt, i hit the knuckle and ball joint with a little heat and they popped loose. then removed the 4 bolts holding the ball joint. Had to drop the diff too. But the TB's came right out after uncranking all the way with wheels off the ground., I marked the location on the keys on the arms so it would line up with the mark on the bar that i put on it. I removed the 4 bolts holding the ball joint to the arm as well and left it in the knuckle.

My drivers side Bushing was easy, the mount bracket broke off the frame and was able to do it on my bench. Still trying to find a qualified welder to weld it back on.
I rented the press from autozone and was able to press out the frame bushing, but man what a pita. Am struggling with the front bushings atm, had to cut it out last night then pressing new one in last night and the weld on the arm cracked with about an 1/8 inch to go. Which after looking at some diagrams they appear to be installed backwards.
I think I'm going to order new arms, at least one. Going to attempt to do the other without breaking it too as soon at it cools down a little more. If i had a hydaulic press , it would have been a lot less work on the front bushings. More worried about the longevity of the mount after welding.

 

More worried about the longevity of the mount after welding.

If properly welded you'll never have to worry about it again.

 

I see no real need for TIG. MIG will be stronger than the truck frame.

 

Thanks, that's good to know going forward. Would you see any reason to pull the motor?

 

I may have found a Mount at at scrapyard. One is an 04, and the other from an 07. both 2 wheel drive and mine is 4x4.

Is the mount the same on the coil over's vs torsion bars or are they different? Any help would be appreciated.

 

Does anyone know how to disconnect the torsion bars from the lower control arm? I spent an hour looking at that today and even after unloading the torsion bar, I can't figure out how to get it separated from the control arm. I'm trying to replace the control arm bushings.

 

This should help .

 

Unbolt lower arm and let hang from tb and use a bfh and knock the arm off the end of the torsion bar.

 

My 2020 4dr Z71 has been sitting at dealer for over 2 weeks waiting on upper and lower for both sides. And ive been complaining about them clanking since day one, they told me they heard it but it wasnt bad enough to warrant a repair! Now at 93000 miles and still under factory warranty due to all the other issues we had with it they finally say they arw bad, but now waiting on parts due to strike. They had it for 2 months at 1759 miles because ac condenser housing was cracked, so truck in a hundred pieces for a while, carpet seats and all the dash on the floor for 2 months. Im done with gm, my last for sure.....