Change your shocks and C-notch the back half. My old truck was lowered 4/7 with Beltech Street Performance drop shocks and a nice size notch. Rode like stock.

 

Regular shocks aren't designed to work in the lowered stance that you have. Like said above, get some shocks that are designed for the lowered truck.

 

what everyone else is saying, get notch and maybe change the shocks, you only technically need shorter shocks if youre running drop leafs..

the bouncy problem is most likely it bouncing off the frame, my red truck did that, I notched it and it rode SO MUCH BETTER

 

Also trim or remove your bumpstops

 

This right here.

 

After some weekend test driving I realized something and now I feel like an idiot.

First of all I did take out the big bump stops and left the one that are under the frame. Second, regardless of my situation, it is my knowledge that regular shocks should still work fine considering that lowering blocks should not change their mounting distance at all because the blocks have no effect on the location of the shock mounts.

Now for my truck. Like I said I only have about an inch of travel in the back, pushing on the back of my truck I can easily bottom it out with my arms. Sitting it in I'm plainly driving on rear bumpstops.

Since then I've taken my bag of tools and bed mat out of my bed and that seems to give me a small amount of suspension travel when driving. But now the idea of getting a notch has moved up much higher on my to do list, so for now its a rough ride.

 

After some weekend test driving I realized something and now I feel like an idiot.

First of all I did take out the big bump stops and left the one that are under the frame. Second, regardless of my situation, it is my knowledge that regular shocks should still work fine considering that lowering blocks should not change their mounting distance at all because the blocks have no effect on the location of the shock mounts.

By lowering your truck WILL cause the shocks to compress to stay at the lowered height causing you to also have less travel provided by the shock causing the ride to feel bouncy and stiff

 

can't go wrong with the notch, i need to have one done as well.

 

Ditto on the notch. Can't wait to do mine.

 

Lose the blocks and get new leafs...I have had blocks with air shocks. Blocks with street performance. Both rode like bouncy shit....got drop leafs and street performance...great ride. No notch needed

Sent from AutoGuide.com App

 

I'll eventually get drop leafs but that'll be after a notch. I plan to run the drop leafs with 2 inch blocks to drop it 5 total in the rear, maybe more.

 

Update!

I got a set of leaf helper springs at autozone after reading this thread:

http://www.355nation.net/forum/how-chassis-suspension/823-how-wheel-hop-gone-25-a-11.html

and put them on to hopefully give my truck a better ride and it seems to work. It added about 1/2" like others have said and stiffened up the springs a good bit. Im now able to put my bed mat and tools back in.

Once I get a notch I can put them on upside down, retain the stiffness, but go down half an inch instead of up

 

I would take a long hard look at the condition of your shocks...in general, the shocks are designed specifically for dampening rebound from the springs, but when you lower a truck, the piston and strole setup on the factory shocks becomes too long, and it cannot properly compensate for bumps, as they constantly act as if the springs are compressed...this generally causes factory shocks to blow seals and fail fairly quickly, though that depends somewhat on how low you are, your driving habits, and your road conditions.

 

So I've been watching this and basically about to put the same setup on my truck. However I was about to order the street Performace shocks but was going to get the factory length ones instead of the shorter ones and now reading this are you guys sayig I need the shorter ones?


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

Yes the shorter ones.

 

Can you guys draw me a picture?? Haha..if the shock mount is bolted to the bottom of the leaf spring and this leaf spring stays in the same position, how does the shock length change? The axle is the only thing moving up..no?


Sent from AutoGuide.com App

 

here you go

 

i have, or had zq8 leafs, a small c-notch, no bump stops, STOCK shocks, and 3" angle blocks. the shocks are not the problem.

you need a c-notch, and then you'll need to trim one bed support above the axle "pumpkin" and move the brake line over an inch or two, and the back will ride exactly like before you lowered it.

 

Derp Derp...too much time dealing with independent suspension setups!

For some reason I was thinking that the shocks were mounted to the axle...my bad!

 

Actually...in some wierd ways it *could* be involving the shocks, but only because they might not be valved right for how short the ammount of suspension travel you have is...

 

You also mentioned that it's a 10 year old truck. Do you know how long its been since the rear shocks have been changed? It might be that you just need new shocks. Stock or short... It might be time, regardless. 8)

I have a stock 08. I changed the stock shocks and the hopping, especially during burnouts, is happening significantly less.

I also tightened the 6 bolts attaching the frame to the bed. (I dunno if it helped the situation but its always a good idea to check!)

 

The shock does stay the same when using lowering blocks.