Yup, been using Mobil 1 for years and years - Lil Nag has had it since new and gets changed every 3k-5k miles depending. Save the old for lawnmower oil changes lol.

Nice to see scientific results to something I already believed. Mobil 1 doesn't gunk up engines like dino oil does.

 

^ Exactly.. Sludge is a byproduct of overheated dyno-oil. Synthetics don't break down like that.

I ran mine out to 10k miles just because it's almost like throwing money away otherwise. I ran Royal Purple in my Camaro (once) and changed it out at 3k miles. I was draining it and it still felt brand new. I normally changed it at 5k miles, but figured I'd try for 10k on this one and see how it tests. Just change the filter at 5k for some added insurance. Been running M1 in this truck since I owned it and since I bought my Camaro back in Jan 03. But didn't learn of the differences until about 2005 when I started on the forums when I started reading up on bobistheoilguy.com.

 

wow, those are great numbers. the best i can get out of mine is 10K... here's mine for comparison. check out the 2nd row over, it's dated 3.25.2009 @ 72K miles. the high silicon (34) was because i forgot to clean my K&N at the start of this oil test. any idea if this was the new formula, GF-5 SM/SN/SL?

 

I've been running all my vehicles the same way, 10k oil/5k filter change intervals

 

This really makes me feel good about changing it every 5k.

Even less chance of teh bs.

 

I always always go to the 10K mark on my oil changes with this stuff, and love it!

 

I'm up to 5k on my M1 oil now. I should change my filter soon.

Question: Who has drained the oil in the filter back into the truck?

 

Don't do that - you may drain crap into your engine from the old filter.
Why take chances for a cup or so of oil?
:shrug:

 

I won't but somebody has had to before.

 

^ I won't..... it's much safer just to top it off with fresh oil.

 

I know several engineers that work in the development of mobil1 and from what I've seen in production it's the real deal. Not alot of hype but many hours of r and d. They are even into some radical stuff now that will go 10k believe it or not.

 

lol 10,000 miles!! That about 16,000 kms wow ! insaine That would mean I'd only needed to change my oil 3 times since I owened my 2004 truck. I have never used synthietic in the motor before just the tranny and rear end.

It whould probably be changed a minum of ounce a year right?

 

Every 10,000 sounds good to me....

 

Just another reason for me to keep running it in my truck, thanks for the info

 

Good Info, I have been running M1 since the truck was new and changed it every 5k miles.

 

Thanks for sharing.

I had good results with running mobil 15k to 10k on my previous '04 3.5L.. Same deal as you, analyzing it with Blackstone labs.

Kinda gets pricey to analyze all the time, if you can afford it, stick with it and know for sure. :salute:

 

:thumbup:mobil 1 for sure

 

Wait so you all run synthetic mobil 1 for 10k miles??? Factory oil sensor go off at that mileage for synthetic or do you just set the trip monitor? Also someone said the change the filter halfway through the life of the oil....how do you do that without losing a lot of the "good" oil...sorry I have never ran synthetic and have been wondering about the benefits and weather it is really worth the difference in cost.

My last question is that if synthetic oil is good for 10k....what makes it soo different from regular oil that it can be ran for longer?

 

Do some reading around on - Bob is the Oil Guy. Some eye opening stuff in there!!

Synthetics are a man-made substance, so they can take MUCH MUCH more abuse than a conventional "dyno" oil before they start to break down. -Their commercials aren't lying!

Regular oil under extreme stresses will turn into "water." Or will obtain the same surface tension as water.... not much... Doesn't coat well and won't offer much as far as lubrication protection. Think of the bottom end of the engine between the crank and crank bearings. That's only thousandths of an inch (Where oil pressure is actually produced) and when you try to squeeze quantities of oil through that small orifice, it will heat up tremendously. Then add in the constant forces of combustion and rotational forces from the crank shaft and pistons/rods. And that's just the bottom end of the engine, you've still got a couple hundred other hot spots and tight squeezes in the engine to deal with. If you overheat dyno oil, it will turn into a consistency of molasses; sludge.



I run mine 10k miles, will do 12k now, and I change the filter half way. never mind the light on the truck, and just keep a mental reminder of when it needs to be changed, or get the stickers form Autozone if you can't remember. It doesn't have to be RIGHT to the EXACT mile, just make it close, or within a couple hundred miles. And it's no big deal when you lose oil when changing the filter, just top it off and keep a mental note of how many quarts you've added during the life cycle of this oil, if you plan on getting it analyzed.

This oil performed well because there are no abnormal amounts of metal found after 10k miles (And I'm not polite to this truck at all) so what that means, is that there was no more than normal wear or metal to metal contact within the engine. -Or the numbers were BELOW normal.


Synthetics will always outperform dyno oil. I haven't ran cheap oil since probably 2002.

 

With the first motor in the STi I ran Amsoil 0W30 and their performance filter. Amsoil claims that you can do 35K on a single oil change as long as you change the filter every 6K. I didn't have the balls to actually go 35K, but I did go to 24K regularly with filter changes at 6K intervals. Every oil change I sent it out to blackstone and it came back good as new.

I ended up putting a motor in the STi at 145K. Of course there is no telling if it was because of my extented intervals or if it was just cause it's an STi. I am back to Dyno oil in my STi after replacing the motor at 145K (which is better then most STi owners).
So i'll see how far this motor goes.

 

Looks like I just need to change my filter and top off my oil. I'm just about to hit 5k I believe. I ran it for 7.25k the first time on the mobil1 filter and had absolutely no issues, no oil consumption or anything. Synthetic is great! Expensive, but when you look at it, costs about the same in the end since running it for 10k would constitute at least 3 oil changes with conventional.

I'm also debating whether or not I want to switch to AMSOIL and run it for 25k or 1 year. That would be even better! Lol. But then again, it would be about $20 more than a mobil1 change, but if you look at it that way, you'd actually be saving money in the long run since 25k with AMSOIL would be 2 changes with mobil1.

Hmmmmmmmm. The decisions. Lol.

 

Great results. I use to also take oil samples in the army years ago. I change my oil out at the 5k mark.

 

^ You won't lose a LOT of oil. It'll only run out so much. It won't drain the crankcase, if that's what you're looking for. It'll lose whats in the filter plus about a little more. Just take the filter off, let it drain for a second, it'll stop and then put the new filter on.

And there are different stresses with the oil. -As to my understanding....... Viscosity break down and overheating. Some older Crystler motors are know for sludging up like mad, they also run hot. (Siebring 3.0?) So when the oil sits on the top of the heads, combine that with poor cooling and poor run-off for the oil that is MEANT to COOL the top of the head, then you get sludge..... The oil just sits there and cooks, it doesn't run off and back to the crank case. not a great deal of oil, but just enough to overheat the oil (cook) and cause sludge.



And as far as viscosity breakdown and causes of sludge, here's Bob's explanation of it:

Bob is the Oil Guy

What does this shearing do to your oil and engine in the long term?
When the oil film is sheared or squeezed out, then your protection is now reliant on barrier lubricant additives. Oil has 3 states of lubrication, hydrodynamic, mixed film, and boundary(barrier). The best is hydrodynamic which is nothing more than a flow of oil separating two mating surfaces. After a period of time shearing, the oil will lose it’s ability to hold up to the same flow as before since the VI Improvers are breaking down causing the oil to thin down in grade. Once this happens, there is less film strength between the mating surfaces so it doesn’t take as much for the oil to shear, therefore creating more heat which attacks the base oil even more and then starts to cause the oil to thicken up due to the excessive levels of heat and the broken down VI Improvers become a contaminant which added to the existing oil will continue to thicken and ultimately cause sludge if not changed in a reasonable time..

 

Also with the switch to Amsoil I picked up between 3-5mpg not that anyone is really looking for the additional gas mileage.

 

From conventional or from mobil1 or some other synthetic? I don't really see how that is possible though lol.

 

going from the conventional to the Amsoil.

I didn't believe it either, I didn't think it was possible. I always thought it was crap when people told me about an increase in mpg till I saw it for myself. And I didn't change my driving style at all.

Same thing everyday, get on the highway 75mph set cruise control arrive at work..Then commute home same thing. I always use the same gas station, shit most of the time its the same pump. I never his traffic because of the hours I drive and I take the same route everyday (it's so boring) 100mi a day round trip.

I spoke to a few people that made the change also and so the increase. They contribute it to the fact that the synthetic is a better luricant and there is a little less friction. The only way to tell is try it yourself.

 

Great news! I switched to Mobil 1 last year at about 59000 miles after reading up on oil characteristics, and couldn't be happier. It is much better for cold starts - as I live in Wisconsin. I even started running it in my snow blower!

 

very interesting, nice thread bro.