If the noise was NOT there before the u joints and is there after then take it back to your tech. One of the joints maybe have been damaged on install. the longer you wait then easier it will be for the tech to dispute it.

I personally have dropped needle bearing into the cup on install (very noisy), I have also over tightened the installer tool and cracked a cup (very noisy). so mistakes happen and the test will be if he fesses up to it. If a weight fell off a drive shaft you would have vibration and no real noise. I wouldn't go looking for other things if all was good right before the repair.

 

I would think more towards a wheel bearing . does it get louder as u go around a left or right hand turn?

 

I'm starting to think this is the case as well.

I just finished putting in new u-joints, again, but this time went with the Moog's 270/290

Lubed it up, took her out for a spin, noise is still there... Completely unchanged

So now that I can rule out U-joints, I agree that it's probably a bearing. What's frustrating is that both the dealership and my local auto shop have had this truck to diagnose a shaking issue and both inspected for worn bearings (truck on lift, check tires for play) and came back saying my bearings are fine. If there is a better way to test, then they may have to do that.

As for if the noise goes away when turning, its hard to tell as the noise is only apparent when coasting at 70 mph. The noise is completely gone at any speed lower than 65 mph. I just need to find a stretch of highway that's relatively curved so I can coast at highway speeds. The CT congested traffic never helps, either.

Just want to make it clear that the noise is not consistent. As I coast down from 75 to 65, the noise will come and go every few mph until I get under 65. If I'm describing this poorly, I'm happy to elaborate! Might try taking a video to see if I can capture it.

 

Where do you hear it coming from front or rear? If it's the front I would rotate tires just to rule out tires first. Cuz it could be either tires or bearing.

 

Sounds like the rear, can feel it in the seat and not the steering wheel. I did have the tires rotated and road force balanced, though the noise was still present and unchanged. But yea, I agree, probably narrows it down to a bearing since the tires do not affect it. I appreciate the assistance

 

Interesting intermittent noise from 75-65 no power. (does it do it in neutral?) If it was a wheel bearing it wouldn't be intermittent. same for tires... so this noise is hum but sounds like rumble strips...any chance its a AC compressor kicking in? does it make noise with the AC on or off? (Im just thinking of things that cycle) that purge valve is commanded on and off depending on loads and speeds but I have never heard of one being that noisy. try this but please be careful get it up to highway speeds and coast...pop it in neutral if it still makes the noise, get it back up to speed pop it in neutral and kill the engine. (DONT LOCK YOUR COLUMN AT SPEED!!!) is the noise still present? this test will turn off all the little electrical doodads that could be cycling, like a weak fuel pump, purge valve, canister close valve, ABS module, electric fan etc.

 

That's the thing with trying to diagnose it through a forum. It can be a bunch of thing. We can only suggest things that can be. Could also be a rear end. I would check all the sample stuff to make sure it's not as simple as low gear oil in the rear. Pull out the fill plug and stick your pinky finger in the hole and you should feel gear oil on it.

 

Noise can be reproduced while in neutral. Diff fluid replaced within the past 10k miles with 75w-90 synthetic. I tried recording a video, but it may need some editing to get the noise to stand out.

 

Have you looked at the rear brakes for a possible failure of the spring or shoes ?

 

The rear brakes were done at the dealership last September. When I first took the truck in for a shaking issue, they took the rear brakes apart to check for issues and found that the drums were out of round (which they fixed). Didn't solve the shaking issue at the time. After replacing the u-joins, balancing the driveshaft, and road force balancing the tires, the shaking has definitely been reduced, but now this new issue has popped up.

I'm going to lube up the u-joints again just to be sure that they are properly greased. I was also reading that tapping the driveshaft ears with a hammer can loosen up any tight spots on the bearings. Couldn't hurt.

It definitely sounds like a bearing noise and you can feel the vibration through the cab. Starting to worry that I will have to name this truck "Mr. Steal-Your-Girl" with the type of vibrations this thing makes when coasting. Less in the wheel, more in the seat, and high frequency. Since it only happens when not under load and at highways speeds, that tells me something is loose/worn just enough to throw off the balance.

Curious how often the pinion bearings fail and what the symptoms are

 

Sounds like the same noise my truck was making, checked my transfer case found it full of metal shavings. They said the shifter forks were worn so much it was letting the gears grind together. Had it rebuilt and its good as new.

 

Ok , this is a long shot , but in your first post you questioned tire belt as a possible cause. Have you replaced the factory wheels with aftermarket ? Reason being I once replaced wheels on a car of mine and later found them to be out of round. I would never notice it until you went 60 or more on the highway. Then it would hum and vibrate. I did a lot of the same things as you until it was figured out. Also , if you bought it used you never know how it was driven or maintained which might have caused damage to the wheels on it now.

 

Wheels are stock, tires are Michelin Defender LTX M/S 235/75R15. Four wheel all matching with about 25k miles on them. Road force balanced and rotated every oil change. I ditched the tires that came with the truck as they were loud and shaky as hell. These Michelins, when I bought them, made the ride nice and smooth.

 

Symptoms of a failing pinion bearing. First will be metal in the oil but we never see that till the other symptoms tell us too. Second will be noise. A whine that gets louder as it spinns faster. Usually worse under load vs coasting. Followed by wear causing play and that will burn the seal causing a leak. Imo the pinion bearing is not the culprit. BUT ring and pinion wear could be. How much windup do you have between drive shaft and ring gear. Pull that rear cover off and check. While in there see how much metal is in that fresh oil. Just a thought.

 

Symptoms of a failing pinion bearing. First will be metal in the oil but we never see that till the other symptoms tell us too. Second will be noise. A whine that gets louder as it spins faster. Usually worse under load vs coasting. Followed by wear causing play and that will burn the seal causing a leak. Imo the pinion bearing is not the culprit. BUT ring and pinion wear could be. How much windup do you have between drive shaft and ring gear. Pull that rear cover off and check. While in there see how much metal is in that fresh oil. Just a thought.

Pictures below, no metal shavings found. Also, could you point out the components that you speak of? I am unfamiliar with where the would be. Also, could you elaborate on what you mean by the windup between the drive shaft and ring gear?

 

Has anyone had this same exact issue with something ELSE being the culprit? Tire belt, wheel bearing?

Many thanks

I just fixed a similar noise this morning on my truck. My front axle actuator (disconnect) was working perfectly, but the shift fork in the disconnnect housing apparently wasn't. The return spring didn't disengage the shift fork completely.

My front driveshaft continued to turn in 2wd causing a humming/slight vibration noise on the interstate. I didn't feel it in the steering wheel. I could feel it in the floor and seat. It kinda made a pulsating vibration......it's hard to describe.

I only noticed it between 55-65 mph. I was driving thinking "what the heck happened....it was fine on the way up here". I kept pulling over checking for something loose or something I broke while offroad. I had originally blamed a thrown wheel weight, but it wasn't really a shake, more of a vibration/humming noise. I actually greased all my rear ujoints at a rest stop because it sounded like a bad joint. I just got new driveshafts with new u joints, so I wasn't too happy about the idea of changing a u joint again. I didn't even check the front driveshaft because I thought it wasn't rotating!

I "fixed" the issue this morning by rotating the tire forward and backward by hand. I used a small rubber mallet to peck on the disconnect housing at the same time. All at once the front driveshaft stopped turning. There was no thud or clank when it disconnected, but it works now. I guess it got seized up. I'm going to take the disconnect housing apart as soon as I get the chance and actually fix the problem. I'll bet it needs greased.

I'm definitely NOT stock in regards to my 4wd system, but my front axle disconnect housing is. I left it stock intentionally to keep the front hub lockout feature.

With your truck in 2wd and on the ground reach under and turn the front driveshaft by hand. It should turn freely. If it doesn't turn freely you may have the same issue with the disconnect housing I just had.

My truck was making a very similar noise like you described. Kinda like rumble strips without the rumble.

I know it's a long shot, but you never know.

Hope it helps. Strange noises can be annoying and difficult to find. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.

 

I just fixed a similar noise this morning on my truck. My front axle actuator (disconnect) was working perfectly, but the shift fork in the disconnnect housing apparently wasn't. The return spring didn't disengage the shift fork completely.

Thanks! I'll have to check that out when I get home.

In other news, I was driving into work this morning and the noise is starting to sound more and more like a bearing. The faster I go, the louder it gets. It's no longer a noise that I only hear when coasting. Noise is noticeable when accelerating past 65 mph and turns into a loud droning sound around 75 mph.

Either way, it has a date with the dealership this Wednesday at 7:30am.

 

Looking at that diff I don't think that's the direction you need to be heading. But the best way to test for pinion wind up would be to hold that ring gear (the one with the writing painted on it) in place so it cant move. Then with the transmission in Neutral twist the driveshaft back and forth. should be very little play .005-.007 inch (backlash) or just a little twitch before it ticks to a stop.