I have a similar problem in cold weather, I'm pretty sure it is the Scoche unit that's at fault. It should receive some info from the computer and then turn the radio ON, but the truck has to warm up before the radio can stay ON. In some futur I will remove the Scoshe and have a direct keyed power.

Is your install directly on a keyed 12 volt power, or do you have some unit that does wht a GM headunit would do?

 

Maybe its the Duio Dio filter, do you have on country music ?:wavey:

 

I don't know how I did it I just followed the instructions so I guess the way GM would do it

Would using the 12 volt keyed power fix problem and if I did that would I still have door chimes and all that good stuff

 

Im having the same problem i was told it was a ground. And to run a ground seperate to fix it. Havent got around to trying it. As heard that it is the schose box to get the metra one? Idk what to do any help would be appriciated.

 

Same problem here. Its the cold weather in my case.

 

i have the metra box and ive never had a problem for a good year and a half until 3weeks ago and earlier this week.. radio shut itself off while driving and killed the power inthe truck, all the dashlights went out, the headlights turned off the passlock light came on.. i said the hell with it and put the factory cd player back in.. no problems at all with that ..

 

This is a very common and it can happen in 1-week or 2-years and the wiring harness is causing the BCM to read incorrect power and grounds.

All of the so-call plug and play wire harnesses that run Iphones or Ipods will cause this and there is nothing that can be done, they just don't work.

You can install a complete unit using but you must use the wire harness from a company like crutchfield and it will work correctly, the walmart ones are junk

I have seen around 25 GM products do this on all types of both cars and trucks and its always the same problem.

If you don't remove this you will burn out the BCM!!!!!

 

Should i get a different interface like the metra one? I tried running another ground wire and it still shutting off and coming back on.

 

Scoche unit.. peice of sh*t get rid of it before you loose your cluster.. BCM or PCM, I had the wall-mart Soche unit (on sale) for two years, then it stared maiking the factory chimes crakle, and on cold days the radio would quit. Then one day after doing the engine swap.. maybe disconection and reconecting the battery a couple time in a row didn't help? But anyway My clsuter came on.. went out I then quickly discontected the battey, and the cluster was dead.. or so I thought after a bunch of fuse pulling I finally got the cluster to come back on and it displayed loc 3 and the brake and ABS lights stayed on, pulling the fuse was not good enough.. I then unpluged the interface and the dash loc 3 went out, I had to by a ABS reader from amazon to clear the latched (loss of serial data code set on the ABS) Latched means even disconection the battery will not clear the codes only the scanner will.

Ever since this my instrument cluster lights will dim.. at random times.. I think it semi fried the cluster or BCM.

I removed the interface did the rap mod o the fuse box to power the cig plug, and tied my radio power to that cig plug, no extra wires through the cab, I can still listen the the radio with the truck off, just no facotry chimes.. but still get turn signal chimes.. thats all I need, don't need the other anoying chimes.

Check out R.A.P mod in the how to section..

Alos I read the PCM on my freinds trucks with Hp tuners one had no interface read in 5 minutes or less no errors or lights set.

The other truck has a interface.. took 25 mintues to read, and set the ABS light and traction control codes, class 2 data error. The second time it was read the radio no longer worked, we pulled the rap relay, radio fuse, and it seemed to reset itsself and now it works.

 

So should i do away with any interface and just get a regular harness for my radio? I have done the rap mod so my radar detector would come on with the key. Thanks for all the help

 

If your good with wirring Id use the harness that came with the radio and interface to make a direct harness.

remove the radio, and interface, the interface will have a plug that went into your orignal GM radio harness, cut this from the interface harness and wire it directly to your radio plug, I bet the wire color will even match up, verify this for sure..

 

Edit an easier way might be to just unplug the interface, and run a "T" tapped wire from the R.A.P modded CIg plug to the red wire from the radio harness and "T" tap that wire.

Reinstall the radio. If it now works then you can leave it as is.. but I would recconmend cutting out the exrta crap of wirring, like I mentoned in my prevous post


Most aftermarket radios;

Black = Ground
Yellow = 12 volts constant
Red = 12 volts switched
Blue = amp turn on

 

So if i run the t tapped wire off the Cig plug it will work and not shut off? Can you tell me why its doing this shutting off and turning back on is the bcm going bad or anything? Im getting a tune pretty soon will all this affect the tune?

 

The factory supplys Ground, constant 12 volts, the speaker wires, and two serial data wires.

There is no "switched ignition wire" in the factory setup, the bcm sends a signal along the data wires telling the radio the ignition is on, or R.A.P is enabled. The radio internally gives power to the clock and on button. The BCM also sends the signal for key in ignition, low fuel headlights on door open..etc, along the data wires, and the radio plays the chimes through, the factory speakers.

The scoshe interface has an external speaker built in, to play the factory sounds, and it provides a switched 12 volts on with ignition or R.A.P. There is nothing wrong with your bcm, when the scoshe interface..starts to go they either, intermitently supply power to the radio, or have so much interfearance on the data wires that the cluster goes blank, and the truck won't start. The scoshe can, and will brn out your bcm, and cluster..beware!!!!!!!!

DO NOT TUNE WITH A SCHOSHE PLUGGED IN! They cause so much interfearance, on the serial data wires, that it can cause iregglarities in your tune, cause the srs system abs, etc to loose cummunications with the bcm, pcm, throwing all hinds of hidden, and latched codes. Also reading the pcm while the scoshe is plugged can take about 4 times longer then usual.

 

If you remeber to turn the radio off you can just run a fused wire off the constant 12 volts and run it to the red 12 volts switched on the radio. This can run down the battery, especially if you forget to turn it off.

If you want chimes and supplied power, get the Metra gmrc-01. still unplug during tunning, but this is the best interface

 

I bought the metra unit and put it in and it still is shutting off and turning back on. I have and external amp running my door speakers and a sub amp. So all the connections i use is the yellow 12v constant black ground red 12v switched and the remote wire to turn my amps on. Idk what it is i guess ill have to run the switched wire to the modded cig plug.

And on the tune what if i just pulled the radio fuse wouldnt that be just like unplugging the connector? Thanks for all the input

 

What is the difference in the two metra units? I have the one with the part number lc-gmcr-01 and theres another one the gmrc-01?

 

Not sure why it is still turnig on and off is it the deck? Try using a "T" tap from the yellow wire and run it into the red one, wiht the metra unti unpluged, this should make it so the radio is allways on unless turned off at the radio, then at lest you can see if it's a problem wiht the deck? Maybe the faceplate is maiking bad contact with the main unit?

Didn't know they had to part numbers, no idea what the difference is?

pulling the fuse is usually aceptable, but you still run a risk if the unit is still plugged in, it is still connected to the data lines, and can cause interfearnce. The metra should be ok, to just pull the fuse. If it were me I'd unplug it completely for tunning, but I am kinda anal!