[JVal]

Is that the same one Chris showed me earlier? The page is blocked at work.

Here's what I've gather so far from the MD Shooter forum post Chris showed me...

Mega Machine Forged Lower
Tactical Innovations Forged Lower


CMMG LKower Parts Kit
LMT Lower Parts Kit


JP Modular Fire Control Trigger
Alexander Arms Tactical Trigger


MidLength Gas System
16" barrel
410 steel or better
HPI and MPI tested
1:7 or 1:8 twist barrel
5.56 or .223 "Wylde" chamber
M4 feed ramps for 16" of less


Bolt Carier groups - Single most important part
properly staked
HPI - High Pressure Tested
MPI - Magnetic Particle Inspected
chrome lined
extractor = heavy duty spring and heavy duty O ring with it
USE GOOD LUBERICANT


Noveske Upper
Larue upper
BCM upper
Bravo Co Bolt Carier Group


Handguards
A2 = workhourse
tactical = lots of rails
free-float = the shiznit, expensive, gunsmithing involved
Stay away from polymer (exception: MagPul)

MagPul MOE handguard
Daniel Defense

 

[comdrop9073]

Once I get the lower, I'll have it all.

You get the invite to the housewarming party? Maybe we can kill two birds with one stone?




Love the stock. I refinished those .22s I have, and it makes me want to try it with my Mosin. I'll probably buy another stock for it though.

I somehow missed this.

No I did not. The 22 you showed me was awesome!

 

[Chris0nllyn]

Thats gunna be a beautiful rifle Dave.


So I was reading through that post Chris showed me earlier. Looks like the main parts recommended are:

Mega Machine Forged Lower
Tactical Innovations Forged Lower

CMMG LKower Parts Kit
LMT Lower Parts Kit

JP Modular Fire Control Trigger
Alexander Arms Tactical Trigger

Still reading. Thoguhts?

Forged is great, Billet is good, Aluminum works.

All up to you, and your budget.

CMMG LPK is fantastic. You can also look at Palmetto State Armory for some of their high end parts kits that come with 2 stage triggers and everything.

Can't speak on those triggers. I do know Dave has a Geissele trigger. They supposedly are one of the, if not the, best triggers in the market.

 

[Chris0nllyn]

I somehow missed this.

No I did not. The 22 you showed me was awesome!

Consider this a formal invite. :lol:

I knew I missed a few people.

 

[Chris0nllyn]

Is that the same one Chris showed me earlier? The page is blocked at work.

Here's what I've gather so far from the MD Shooter forum post Chris showed me...

Same general place. The link I posted was for a blemished lower, lower parts kit, collapsable stock, and grip. All assembled for $180. (Plus transfer fees and taxes)

It's nothing fancy, but it works.

 

[JVal]

Forged is great, Billet is good, Aluminum works.

All up to you, and your budget.

CMMG LPK is fantastic. You can also look at Palmetto State Armory for some of their high end parts kits that come with 2 stage triggers and everything.

Can't speak on those triggers. I do know Dave has a Geissele trigger. They supposedly are one of the, if not the, best triggers in the market.

See I've been reading the opposite. Billet is better then forged. :shrug:

Added CMMG LPK, Geissele trigger and Palmetto State Armory to the research list. :high5:

Same general place. The link I posted was for a blemished lower, lower parts kit, collapsable stock, and grip. All assembled for $180. (Plus transfer fees and taxes)

It's nothing fancy, but it works.

Got ya. Most sites are locked here at work. Though I did find that Bravo Comapny's site isn't. shhhh. :hide:

 

[Chris0nllyn]

Mega Machine Forged Lower
Tactical Innovations Forged Lower

You can't go wrong with a forged lower. Just know that some forged lowers are made of 6061 aluminum and the billets are 7075. 7075 is much stronger.

CMMG LKower Parts Kit
LMT Lower Parts Kit

Go with CMMG. Pretty much every parts kit is the same. Some parts kits come with upgraded triggers.

JP Modular Fire Control Trigger
Alexander Arms Tactical Trigger

Giselle or Timney for triggers. I plan on getting a regular run of the mill trigger that comes with the parts kit until I get it assembled and working. Then get a nice one later.

You can also look up how to do a "trigger job" on them. Basically smooth all the contact surfaces. It won't give you a 3lb. trigger pull, but it will help the crispness of the trigger.

MidLength Gas System
16" barrel
410 steel or better
HPI and MPI tested
1:7 or 1:8 twist barrel
5.56 or .223 "Wylde" chamber
M4 feed ramps for 16" of less

Get a chrome lined barrel.
The 1:7 twist barrel is good for heavier bullets (<69gr.) as it stabilizes them better.
1:9 is most common, as most 5.56/.223 rounds are 55 gr.
1:8 is perfect for both.
Definitely get the M4 ramps.

Bolt Carier groups - Single most important part
properly staked
HPI - High Pressure Tested
MPI - Magnetic Particle Inspected
chrome lined
extractor = heavy duty spring and heavy duty O ring with it
USE GOOD LUBERICANT

Nickel Boron. Do it.

Noveske Upper
Larue upper
BCM upper
Bravo Co Bolt Carier Group

Noveske and Larue are $$$$ But they are top notch.
Can't go wrong with anything on your list.

Handguards
A2 = workhourse
tactical = lots of rails
free-float = the shiznit, expensive, gunsmithing involved
Stay away from polymer (exception: MagPul)

Depends on your style. I thik the A2 style is ugly, but if you are building a M16 clone, it's what you want. Most people do tactical, but beware. Some handguards can be i the hundreds of dollars.

Personally, I'm going with a free floating tube style. Free floaters use a different barrel nut, so you'll need a barrel nut wrench. Or, you could get a complete upper that has the floater installed.

MagPul MOE handguard
Daniel Defense

Either one is great. Troy also makes great handguards.

.

 

[Chris0nllyn]

See I've been reading the opposite. Billet is better then forged. :shrug:

Added CMMG LPK, Geissele trigger and Palmetto State Armory to the research list. :high5:



Got ya. Most sites are locked here at work. Though I did find that Bravo Comapny's site isn't. shhhh. :hide:

Billet strength is dependent on the original slug of metal it was machined from.

Take for instance a crank shaft for an engine that is forged into it's final shape then machined. The shaped forged crankshaft would be stronger than a crank that was machined from a forged piece of billet material due to the grain structure following the shape of the forging.

Either way, for a weekend shooter, regular guy, any lower will be fine. Just make sure it has a good coating.

 

[Chris0nllyn]

Also, if you are going to build an upper, make sure you get one with forward assist and dust cover.

Some uppers are "low profile" and don't include places for those things.

Another thing to add would be a charging handle. BCM, PSA, any "brand name" is good.

Some offer ambidextrous charging handles, some offer larger latches. The larger latches are good if you're wearing gloves, or have big fingers.

 

[JVal]

Good point on the billet.

All added to the list. Thanks Chris.

 

[comdrop9073]

Ok, The 3 dents have been ironed out. Now only one is visible I couldnt get it 100% out.

I steamed the stock to get any left over crud out of it and let it dry for an hour. Wiped it down with Acetone and removed the painted numbers. Heres what it looked like:

After the first coat of Teak Oil:

 

[Chris0nllyn]

Nice work Dave.

I love older stocks. Back when they were REAL wood. Strip the varnish, add soe oil, and it looks ike a million bucks.

 

[Chris0nllyn]

Plus, I'm sure the pics don't do it justice. It was hard trying to get good pics of my stuff

 

[comdrop9073]

Yeah its hard to get a good picture. I need to wait 10 more minuets than I will go put another coat of Teak oil on the stock. I want to have 5 coats to start out with.

 

[JVal]

I need to go check a pawn shop!!! I'd love to refinish an old rifle. even just a .22.

 

[comdrop9073]

Its acutely a lot of fun. This Teak oil is extremely easy to work with. Gotta run out and put on coat #3.

 

[ahelm3]

I need to go check a pawn shop!!! I'd love to refinish an old rifle. even just a .22.

Dunhams in Bridgeville has some old Russian Nagants on sale for $140 right now. Pretty sweet rifles and they are everywhere so its not like your experimenting on a piece of history or anything.

My buddy picked one up yesterday.

 

[comdrop9073]

Here it is after 5 coats of Teak oil. I used 2000 grit sand paper to smooth out the finish between the 4th and 5th coat, its nice and smooth now.

 

[Chris0nllyn]

Turned out great!

You going to set it out in the sun and sweat out some oil?

 

[comdrop9073]

Turned out great!

You going to set it out in the sun and sweat out some oil?

Thanks Chris!

I have it hanging inside. Im going to let it soak up as much as it can.